Words Tertiani ZB Simanjuntak Photos Jerry Adiguna

Legend says the phoenix will rise from the ashes stronger than before; it’s a metaphor that perfectly fits the spectacular return of Indonesian fashion darling Tex Saverio to the world of haute couture.

The designer, who sports a colorful tattoo of the mythical bird on his right arm, gave a reminder why he was dubbed the Indonesian version of British couturier Alexander McQueen in his first ever solo show, Absolutex.

His high-fashion designs have adorned many international artists, including Ayumi Hamasaki, Lady Gaga, Kim Kardashian and Jennifer Lawrence, who wore one of his outfits for her character in The Hunger Games: Catching Fire in 2013.

Although there had been little news of his Prive couture line in recent years, he had not entirely disappeared from the fashion industry and was busy with his ready-to-wear line Tex Saverio Jakarta.

“People had asked for my couture designs which I had planned two years ago. So when the opportunity for a show came, I just took up the challenge,” the designer, known as Rio, told the media before the show at the Raffles Jakarta hotel on May 25.

Rio took over a year to finish the 37-piece Trism collection for the show, held in collaboration with main sponsor Swedish premium vodka Absolut Elyx.

It was also supported by Dian M. Muljadi as a governor of the Asian Couture Federation — Rio became a member in November — as well as fashion and lifestyle media group Fimela.com.

“The conjoining thread between my work and the sponsor’s product is that both uphold the importance of craftsmanship in the process,” said Rio.

SHOW TIME

The show itself was divided into three sequences that, when combined, reflected the Javanese saying of Ki Hadjar Dewantara that was adopted as the maxim of national education: Ing ngarso sung tulodo, ing madyo mangun karso, tut wuri handayani (Those in the front set an example, in the middle should raise the spirit and those in the back encourage).

“The creative industry could take a lead for a better economy, while the fashion industry could be the backbone in its transformation. Indonesia has many talents waiting to be exposed and through this show I want to remind us all about the principles of helping each other out while moving forward,” Tex said.

Each phrase was flashed onto the screen at the start of the separate sequences of the 45-minute show, held in a hall transformed into a spacious theater, with members of the fashionista and celebrities in attendance.

The back screen displayed ice-themed animation, with a bright white light bathing the wide catwalk when the first line of models in white and silvery hues made their entrance.

The serene ambience was held together by the stage arrangement, but the cutting and material used in the designs were the real deal. Sheer, flowing fabric was intricately embellished with pearls, sequins, crystals and embroidery sewn by hand to form blossoming flowers or geometric motifs.

All 12 dresses presented a fitted bodice look, from ballgowns, mermaid silhouetted dress, bateau gowns with twists as well as floor-length A-line dresses accentuated with dramatic headpieces created by renowned designer Rinaldy A. Yunardi.

While the first collection showed the play of motifs resembling a trickle of ice, hand-embroidered black roses dominated the next one.

Thirteen black-on-black gowns reflected the passion-themed sequence, with Rio not hesitating in adding big ruffles and nets to voluminous bustier dresses.

Kakuyasu Uchiide, the international artistic director of Japan-based cosmetics brand Shu Uemura, provided stunning, expressive make-up on the models to create the bold look.

The conclusion lived up to the old saying, “saving the best for last”. Each of 12 designs in golden and white tones in gowns, two-pieces and minidresses of the final sequence showed the details that have made the designer’s name.

The headpiece and the golden-lined feathers on the gowns and capes gave the models the appearance of extravagant birds ready to take off, completing the legend.

Acknowledging that his newest collection was not as flashy as previous ones, Rio said there were changes in the way he looks at his designs.

“If there is a coming-of-age moment in fashion design, then I must have come to a point where I have transformed into a more mature me.”

For further information on the collection, visit Texsaverio.com

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