Words Tertiani ZB Simanjuntak Photos Jerry Adiguna

Indonesia’s most celebrated designer, Biyan Wanaatmadja, returned this year with a vast collection of prêt-à-porter that embodies over three decades of work that have put the country on the fashion map.

Themed “Benang Merah” — literally translated as red thread — the 102-piece women’s wear collection for spring/summer 2017 under the Biyan line was held together by this figuratively connecting thread.

The color red naturally dominated, because Biyan said that he would love “to do colors” this year instead of the safer side of the palette seen in previous collections.

A variety of shades of red, coral, indigo blue, fresh mint and olive green that go together with off-white color, beige, gold, silver and black gave the collection a warm yet breezy ambience that could fit any occasion and any season of the year.

But the ingredients that Biyan put into this collection that invited a standing ovation from the socialites, celebrities and loyal customers in the Segara Ballroom of the Dharmawangsa Hotel in South Jakarta on June 1 were something owned by him alone.

“I’ve been thinking of recollecting all the records of my career and life journeys when I started to work on the collection,” said the 61-year-old, who studied architecture in Germany before switching to fashion design.

He said he was inspired by various factors, including history, cultural assimilation, media, structures, colors, textures and sounds logged in his personal experiences and explorations.

“The good and the bad, places in history, the beautiful and the not-so-beautiful memories, dreams and nightmares […] they are all in harmony,” he told the press before the show.

Educated at the London College of Fashion, the UK, where he graduated in 1983, Biyan said that the idea for the collection also transpired from his archives he revisited with a new pair of eyes.

“I tried to look at it from different angles, turning them round and regaining the passion and energy from my early years.”

CONNECTING THE DOTS

The abstract idea of a harmony, which he caught on looking into the archives of his works, rolled into a fusion of old and new, traditional and modernity, poised yet measured, elegant yet whimsical without being scattered.

The coral-colored runway lined with pillars made a perfect frame for the romantic silhouettes of Biyan’s signature.

Multi-layered pieces, the asymmetrical cut, intricately placed patchwork and handicraft — embroideries, lace, sequins and beads — was imbued in the different type of materials.

Biyan exerted boldness in mix-and-matching the materials from the flowy, luxurious fabric to the more common, such as denim and linen.

He glorified the influence of different cultures in his designs by widely using the glazed and stiff chintz fabric with colorful floral motifs that originated in India with motifs and dying technique that were adopted in Indonesian batik.

Over the course of the history of world trade, the fabric also absorbed influences from China and the Europe. The French also produced their own chintz called “Toile de Jouy”, or the Jouy print.

These interconnecting historical facts were translated into rich prints – the unprecedented kind that at a glance looks like European style but on closer inspection showed Asian influences and even of batik.

The floral patterns — dominated by lotus and peonies with corals as branches — come in various sizes and balance to accentuate each of the design.

In a flimsy, sparkly gown, for example, an embroidered pattern is placed on the midriff and branches out to the sleeves.

The coral motifs are also seen on the beadwork, headpiece and accessories worn by the models.

The most superb prints of all in the collection were the red roosters, with the head comb and feathers made of various kinds of coral to create vividly charming imagery on volume dresses, jackets and coats.

STYLE LINEUP

The lineup of dozens of models eloquently portrayed the designer’s trademark of sophisticated layering, the juxtaposition of masculine and feminine elements and his aesthetic choice in playing with prints, texture and cutting.

The collection come in various styles to choose from — outerwear, tops and pants, volume, loose-cut dresses and elegant gowns — with possibilities for mix and match that would never go wrong even for a hijab outfit.

A beautiful Bohemian look is seen in the asymmetrical gown with lettuce hem, while the spaghetti-strap gown would be the better choice for a gala night with layers of laces accessorized with embroideries along the waistline.

Khaki blouse, coat and crop pants or slim print pants are options for edgy women, while the long waistcoat combined with oversized shirtdresses are the must-own outfits to welcome the season.

The deconstructive cut was also seen on the unhemmed, raw edges while Biyan skillfully merged print textile embellished with lace or print silk cloth applied as embroidery on tulle for the creations.

For the embellishment, the designer added embossed metal, handcrafted brass, stones, carved bones, glass and Swarovski crystal sequins, freshwater pearls and lace ribbons that highlighted Biyan’s sense of couture.

The show, lasting more than an hour, was organized in collaboration with Paris-based skin care brand IOMA to support Biyan’s charity work with Komunitas Cinta Kasih, FAN Campus and Kkottongnae Indonesia working for the poor, the disabled and the rehabilitation of drug addicts.

Biyan, who released his line in Jakarta in 1986, acknowledged that the newest collection was far different from previous ones.

The collection, he says, was “a beautiful contrast and harmony”, just like the journey in life.

“In anything you do, everything you do, whether in life or at work, there must be something that drives and inspires you. Each phase evolves the person, indirectly building the character of the person.”

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Biyan international stockists include Net-A-Porter at net-a-porter.com; CLUB 21 in Bangkok; Les Suites in Paris; Saks Fifth Avenue in Dubai and Bahrain; Joyce in Hong Kong; Inoui in Japan; Blake in Chicago; Maria Luisa in Qatar; Rubaiyat in Saudi Arabia and Sauvage in Kazakhstan.