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At Your Leisure: A (Michelin) starry night

The Lion City’s food fanatics were wagging their tongues as the 2016 Michelin Guide Singapore was launched at a gala dinner at Resorts World Sentosa on July 21

Jed V. Doble (The Jakarta Post)
Sat, July 30, 2016

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At Your Leisure: A (Michelin) starry night

The Lion City’s food fanatics were wagging their tongues as the 2016 Michelin Guide Singapore was launched at a gala dinner at Resorts World Sentosa on July 21.

A week earlier, 34 Michelin Bib Gourmand awardees were revealed, acknowledging venues serving good quality meals under S$45 (US$33.32).

The list contained the most iconic Singapore dishes: Laksa, Hainan chicken rice, bak kut teh and even the lowly curry puff. Michelin’s inspectors obviously spent time at the island’s popular food centers, naming 17 stalls in food courts in the category.

The Bib Gourmand list foreshadowed a tribute to Singapore’s amazing street food scene, as two popular hawkers: Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle and Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle were each awarded a star.

This was a first for the Michelin Guide and gives Singapore the distinction of having the world’s least-expensive Michelin-starred eateries, with a portion of Hill Street pork noodle selling for just S$5.

The star of the night, however, was Joël Robuchon Restaurant, the only establishment awarded three stars. The venue is known for its repertoire of haute-French cuisine, which marries simple flavors to exquisitely artistic plating.

Robuchon’s other venue, the informal and convivial L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, was awarded two stars. Its avant-garde dishes, drawing inspiration from the simplicity of Japanese cuisine and the vibrance of Spanish tapas, are served from an open kitchen, where guests have a front row seat for the action.

The nod from Michelin gives the prolific Robuchon a total of 30 Michelin stars, the greatest number of any chef globally.

Meanwhile, three venues high on my personal list were awarded two stars. Having tasted the food of the three chefs, I had no doubt they would be acknowledged–although I was expecting their restaurants to get three stars.


The first was Odette, which was opened last November by French chef Julien Royer; second was the old guard Les Amis, known for contemporary French cuisine with a touch of Asian aesthetic; and third was Restaurant Andre, by Taiwan-born, French-trained chef Andre Chiang, known for his sophisticated, elegant and meticulously-plated dishes.

Rounding off the two-star list are newly opened Shoukouwa at One Fullerton, a joint venture between the Emmanuel Stroobant group and Michelin-starred Sushi Shikon in Tokyo; Shisen Hanten, chef Chen Kentaro’s Sichuan restaurant at Mandarin Orchard Hotel.

In a first for Michelin, Australian and Peranakan cuisine were acknowledged. One star went to Singaporean chef Douglas Tay’s Osia, which serves up Australian dishes using Australian and Asian ingredients under Aussie chef Scott Webster, and Candlenut, a modern Peranakan restaurant by Singaporean Malcolm Lee.

One star was also awarded to Corner House by French-trained, Singapore-born chef Jason Tan, The Kitchen at Bacchanalia led by Brazilian chef Ivan Brehm and Jaan by chef Kirk Westaway.

As expected, Michelin’s announcements drew reactions from Singapore’s foodies, ranging from praise to criticism, with some asking how could non-Singaporeans write a guide to Singaporean food.

I have mixed feelings. Some of my personal favorites in both the Bib Gourmand and starred categories were not recognized.

However, when dealing with food and such lists and guides, many factors come into play.

Food is extremely subjective, for a start, and it’s been repeated a few times that Michelin has stringent criteria.

However, as the line at Hill Street already exhibits, the Michelin guide has shone a spotlight on the excellent array of food that Singapore has to offer.

For those working in the food & beverage industry, it is a recognition and a challenge–who doesn’t want to get a star? The goal is to get people to talk about–and encourage them to try–the establishments in the guide.

If that’s the case, then mission accomplished. I’m booking my flight.

Who knows, I might see you in line. Come say hi!

The 29

The Singaporean eateries awarded Michelin stars

Three stars
“Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey...”

Joël Robuchon Restaurant (Resorts World Sentosa)

Two stars
“Excellent cooking, worth a detour...”

Restaurant Andre (Bukit Pasoh Road)
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon (Resorts World Sentosa)
Les Amis (Shaw Centre)
Odette (National Gallery Singapore)
Shisen Hanten by Chen Kentaro (Mandarin Orchard Singapore)
Shoukouwa (One Fullerton)

One star

“A very good restaurant in its category...”

Alma by Juan Amador (Goodwood Park Hotel)
The Kitchen at Bacchanalia (Hong Kong Street)
Beni (Mandarin Gallery)
Candlenut (New Bridge Road)
Corner House (Botanic Gardens)
Crystal Jade Golden Palace (Paragon Shopping Centre)
CUT (Marina Bay Sands)
Forest (Resorts World Sentosa)
Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodles (Crawford Lane)
Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle (Chinatown Food Complex)
JAAN (Swissotel the Stamford)
Lei Garden (CHIJMES)
OSIA (Resorts World Sentosa)
Putien Restaurant (Kitchener Road)
Rhubarb Le Restaurant (Duxton Hill)
Shinji by Kanesaka
Summer Pavilion
(Ritz-Carlton, The Millenia Singapore)
Sushi Ichi (Singapore Marriott Tang Plaza Hotel)
Terra Tokyo-Italian (Tras Street)
The Song of India (Scotts Road)
Waku Ghin (Marina Bay Sands)

PHOTOS VIA AFP, MICHELIN

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