Home in the garden: The Gudang Kopi, formerly a warehouse for storing coffee, has been converted into accommodation.

On the “boundary between human habitation and the jungle”, city dwellers can rest and rejuvenate at a unique property on Mount Salak.

Mount Salak is known for its nourishing qualities and superstitious stories. Home to leopards, gibbons and hawk-eagles, it’s a densely covered mountain that can both hurt and heal.

On the northeastern slopes of the mountain nestles a taman obat (medicinal garden) containing more than 200 plants, part of the Vila Botani property.

Situated on the edge of Mount Halimun Salak National Park, only an hour’s drive from Bogor city, the property is on the “boundary between human habitation and the jungle”, says its investor Alex Korns.

Formerly a coffee plantation, Vila Botani is now run by Korns and manager Jaenudin, known as Pak Jai. Korns, originally from the United States, was introduced to the area when he created hiking maps around the foot of the twin peaks of Mount Pangrango and Mount Gede.

Enamored with the terrain, he grew interested in a patch on nearby Salak, believing it would make an ideal base camp for hikers as it bordered the national park. Aside from the hiking possibilities and the medicine garden, the 5.5-hectare property now houses an arboretum, an organic vegetable farm and traditional accommodations.

Amid bird calls on a walk through the taman obat, which is in the process of being reorganized, Jai pointed out plants and their uses.

Passing a cluster of plants from the ginger family, he said some were used to make the well-known jamu (herbal beverages), while another featuring waxy red flowers was specifically for maag (stomach ulcers).

Next was a kumis kucing (cat’s whiskers) plant with delicate white flowers, used to ease the symptoms of kidney stones, arthritis or diabetes. Following that was handeuleum, which is used to treat a bloody cough.

Even more interesting was a daruuju pantai plant, the leaves of which can purportedly be used to treat cancer, along with boiled sirsak (soursop) leaves. Jai cited a woman diagnosed with cancer who used the plants, in addition to a diet of organic vegetables.

All meals at Vila Botani use vegetables picked freshly from the farm. Among Indonesia’s older generations, “people really swear by eating lots of lalapan [raw vegetables]”, said Korns, adding that some research indicated eating uncooked vegetables could help diabetes.

Separately, Jai said a fellow Vila Botani staff member had learned about the medicinal plants’ properties from his grandmother, who was a local midwife, and was able to prepare remedies.

As many people believe Mt. Salak to be mystical, it’s fitting to find a trove of medicinal plants there. Meanwhile, many also believe the mountain has sinister qualities.

The greenhouse: Pak Jai explains the process of growing and harvesting organic basil.

Some say more accidents occur on Salak compared to Gede and Pangrango, including hikers being reported lost or missing. Alongside possible scientific explanations, local lore attributes it to something more mysterious, considering the top of Salak to be forbidden or sacred.

Seven plane crashes have been recorded in the area since 2002. Perhaps the most infamous was an incident in 2012, during which all 45 people on board were killed. Following an investigation, human error was blamed as the cause.

Other myths talk of people dying in their sleep or of unknown causes. In 2007, however, eight high school students reportedly died from sulphur poisoning on the slopes of the active volcano.

Korns also told the story of a researcher who enjoyed walking alone on the mountain “at any time of the day or night” until on one occasion when she “noticed a round ball on the ground”, which turned out to be a human skull.

“[It’s] probably true that people have gotten lost up there and died,” Korns admitted.

However, he believes incidents are now far less frequent than in the past, thanks to better preparations and technology.

“I think that was a common problem [on all three mountains, but] the times have changed and perhaps because people are a little more aware of the risks, they might bring the right equipment [and] they are also more likely to have a cell phone.”

For those seeking a challenge, Salak has seven summits that can be reached from different departure points.

Venturing deep into the forest, however, is not necessary to enjoy the green haven of Vila Botani, which is only 15 kilometers south of Bogor city at the end of a small road passable by car or motorbike.

With all that’s on offer on the fringes of the forest, getting close to nature is healing for both body and mind. Vila Botani is suitable for yoga groups, meditation, mountain biking, bird watching and for tree lovers who wish to explore the diverse arboretum.

For a short walk guests can head to a secluded waterfall on the property, while an hour in the other direction leads to a larger public waterfall.

As the sun goes down, city dwellers can enjoy the crisp air, the wide panorama of distant city lights and the sound of insects rising above the clamor far below.

— Photos by Randy Asra Dahnial

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