Unique features have gained worldwide recognition for Charriol timepieces and jewelry.

Entrepreneur Philippe Charriol said that gold, whether gold plated or solid gold, was highly popular in luxury timepieces and jewelry in the 1980s, when he first introduced steel and steel cable accessories amid the tough competition from already established luxury brands.

“Amazingly, the steel cable for jewelry and watch bracelets received a good response, as many people enjoyed it,” said Chairrol, who was in town recently to open an exhibition featuring the Swiss brand’s latest St-Tropez collection at Plaza Indonesia.

Recalling the early days of his luxury watch and jewelry business, Charriol could not hide his joy when mentioning steel cables.

Indeed, the steel cable means a lot to him, especially in his business’s success.

“Making it different was what I did, and the steel cable has helped promote our brand, Charriol,” said the father of two.

Charriol was the first jeweler to use steel cables in decorative motifs and watch bracelets. He patented this unique concept, for which the brand holds exclusive worldwide rights.

The Marseille-born entrepreneur, a devotee of architecture, history and car racing, said that he drew inspiration from ancient Celtic culture in order to create his maiden collection in 1983 – aptly named the Celtic Collection.

The steel cable is the key feature of the brand’s jewelry collections and a distinctive element that is featured on all its accessories.

Having a unique and distinct feature in its luxury fashion products was very important in promoting the brand; otherwise, “you have to spend billions of dollars to make the product popular,” he said.

“I am lucky because customers think that my steel cable is very unique,” Charriol said.

“Initially, the steel cable was designed as a men’s product, because cable is something that showcases masculine strength, but it turned out [that] it goes very well with ladies,” he said, adding that the steel cable has become “the DNA” of his products.

However, he acknowledged that becoming the famous luxury brand Charriol enjoys today did not happen overnight: “It took three years from 1983 before Charriol watches became popular in some countries.”

The first two years were very difficult. “It was a time when we had to start, to move, to test, etc. But then we gained recognition in three countries – Hong Kong, Kuwait and Panama,” he said.

The market in those days picked up, even though gold was the dominant trend. “I came with steel color and it worked, because many people were interested in it.”

Since then, Charriol’s market spread to the Middle East, the US and Asia, including Japan, China and Indonesia.

Although Charriol is based in Geneva, the historic cradle of watchmaking and synonymous with the most prestigious watch brands, entering the European market was not easy. Apart from high operating costs, the local stores only sold big brands at that time, he said.

Market knowledge

Charriol decided to found his own timepiece company after 14 years at a prestigious watch and jewelry company, where he was an executive director.

He is consistent with his slogan “L’Art de vivre la Différence” – the art of living differently – as this keeps him learning, especially in his passions of culture, architecture and history, and attempting to discover new things.

His previous work experience allowed him to gain in-depth knowledge about different luxury markets, especially Asia, and to become acquainted with consumer expectations in the luxury world.

“The market (for luxury fashion collections) was very bullish at that time, with Japanese customers like the Chinese today. They buy everything and everywhere,” said Charriol, who first visited Indonesia in 1970.

Managing his own company for 34 years has allowed Charriol to explore his own recipe for success, in addition to making his business different.

Daring is a must for an entrepreneur. “You cannot just scratch your head and ask, ‘What can I do?’” he said.

Flexibility and innovation are also important traits.

“When you start a company, you always start with drawing up a business plan, including on profit. But sometimes, we cannot do like what we had planned before, because the situation changes. In this case, you have to react accordingly, to remain highly motivated, and you cannot give up because you are in the middle of the water. No turning back because you have invested: time, money, talents, etc.,” Charriol pointed out.

“If you do not believe [in] what you do, then it is very dangerous. So, you have to be very sure of what you are doing,” he added.

The Charriol brand, he said, focused on the middle-high products category, priced between US$1,000 and $3,000.

Apart from luxury timepieces and fine jewelry, Charriol also produces fashion accessories, including handbags, belts, writing implements, travel ware, fragrances, sunglasses and leather goods. Cable belts are apparently very popular in Indonesia.

“We also sell products at a reasonable price of between $150 and $600,” he said.

Quality, quantity and price determine what is a luxury product, and what is not.

“The easiest one to see is the price. When the price is high, then the product is categorized as luxury. The more complicated or the more difficult it is to make a product, which means refined quality with less quantity, then the product becomes luxury,” he said.

However, he said that he always worked within three parameters: Unique, feminine and affordable. “When I have met the three parameters, then I have a good product, which means I have good design, good manufacturing and a good price,” Charriol said, “A good name, I already have,” he added, laughing.

Asked how long it takes to create a new model, he replied, “It takes around two years for a new model to arrive here.”

The design process is among the reasons it takes such a long time. Many people in the company are involved in commenting on any new product design. “I, finally, like King Solomon, make a decision on the design and give my final approval,” he said. “The production itself needs between six to eight months”

That the Charriol brand is on the list of prestigious luxury timepieces and jewelry means a lot to its founder and owner, Philippe Charriol.

“It allows me to travel extensively to promote the brand and new collections,” he said with a broad smile.

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