Ah, sugar. The sweet stuff. The bane of diets. Have it white, brown, crystallized, blended or burnt – anything’s possible with this one.
Whether we’re aware of it or not, sugar is as ubiquitous as the ants that will follow. You can find it in that ice cream on your cheat day, the iced coffee from the fancy cafe down the street or the barbecue sauce right next to the grill.
Sugar is a big part of cuisine in general, but it certainly plays an incredibly important role in Indonesia.
Look no further than the places you usually shop for groceries; sugar prices are tightly regulated by the government, and some stores will cap sugar purchases to prevent hoarding amid shortages and rising prices, especially during peak seasons like Ramadan.
With an omnipresent reach throughout Indonesian society, sugar occupies the same place of importance as other daily essentials such as rice. And as it happens, its place has been cemented long before the advent of sugary concoctions in modern-day Indonesia.
Speaking to The Jakarta Post, historian and Padjadjaran University professor Fadly Rahman said the cane sugar regularly used today can be traced back to the 15th century, brought by Chinese traders who then set about cultivating the famously valuable crop.
“Even during the Dutch East India Company’s [VOC] rule, sugarcane plantations around major cities like Batavia [now Jakarta] were operated by Chinese farmers. This, in turn, attracted the Europeans’ attention, as sugarcane as a commodity was widely traded across continents,” he explained
This came to a head during the 19th century, when the Dutch colonists put in place a government policy called the cultuurstelsel (cultivation system), requiring a portion of Indonesia’s agricultural production to be devoted to export crops.
Widely referred to as tanam paksa (forced planting) by many Indonesians, the system was mainly implemented on the island of Java, where villagers had to have 20 percent of their village land sectioned off for export cultivation or work in government-owned plantations for 60 days of the year.
As a result of the system, before the Great Depression, Java occupied a consistent place as the second-largest sugarcane producer and exporter after Cuba. Sugar production in Java also accounted for a third of the Dutch government’s revenue and 4 percent of its gross domestic product (GDP).
In the principality of Mangkunegara, which was one of the subsidiaries of the Mataram dynasty, Mangkunegara the fourth was called the “Sugar King of Java”, a title he gained from the abundance of sugar production under his leadership.
Meanwhile, sugar also played a major role in the neighboring Sultanate of Yogyakarta, where it became a fixed part of the daily diet. Studies have found that the sweet taste commonly found in Javanese cuisine has to do with the excessive sugar supply resulting from the many sugar factories owned by the seventh and eighth Sultan Hamengku Buwono. It was also said that these sugar factories played a big part in how the keraton (the royal court of Yogyakarta) gained prosperity.
Fadly noted that the close relations between local kingdoms and the colonial government were made possible by sugarcane, as it was a profitable venture for the colonists while also speeding up the development of the kingdoms’ territory.
Sugar company in East Java. Transport of the sugar cane on ox cart from the field.
(KITLV/ Ohannes Kurkdjian)
“The elites of the era, such as the regents and sultans, were part of what is called an indirect rule system. The colonists utilized them as mediators to exploit the common folk, who were mostly made up of farmers growing their own rice to consume,” he said.
Sugar was a rather profitable crop during the period, with the Dutch building 94 sugar processing factories throughout Java along with the required infrastructure like roads, railways, and electrical installations to further improve logistics.
The colonial legacy still stands to this day, as a study found that areas surrounding Dutch-built factories had more economic activity than other parts of the country, which certainly ties in with the rapid development of Java.
While sugar provided wealth for some, it also created strife for others. Many villagers had more than 20 percent of their land sectioned off for exports, which created conditions for food shortages and famine as sugarcane is not meant to be consumed daily like rice.
At the same time, reports have been made of villagers working for far more than the required 60 days, with thugs and Dutch police battalions deployed to curb any form of protest or resistance.
Even as the ruling powers changed during World War II, Indonesia was still bound to its abundance of sugar. Wartime shortages from 1937 to 1942 were dealt with by the newly arrived Japanese with economic reorganization projects that saw the massive mobilization of farmland and labor.
As a result, local food production was severely hampered, with strict rationing for the most basic of goods. Even so, while rice had to be rationed to 200 grams per day, sugar was in high supply due to the collapse of trade routes during the war, although the Japanese had taken over the sugar-processing mills.
After Indonesia gained independence in 1945, the newly formed government took over the sugar factories under the Sultanate and Mangkunegaran in 1946, and the nationalization of foreign companies continued until 1957.
During these turbulent times, sugar production declined significantly. In 1955, sugarcane production dropped from 14 metric tons per hectare to only under 9 tons. With the decrease in sugar productivity and increasing demand, Indonesia became a sugar-importing country starting from 1967 onward.
After decades of imports, the government finally made efforts to phase out foreign sugar by imposing an import limit on refined sugar from 2002 to 2008. However, the national appetite for sugar still remains as ravenous as ever.
A report by Czapp found that Indonesian sugar consumption has grown as much as 40 percent over the last decade, a staggering number compared to the global average of 9 percent. By comparison, India saw a growth of 7.8 percent in the same period, while China experienced a rise of 6.8 percent.
The growing Indonesian middle class' increasing appetite for processed foods is seeing a large-scale expansion by the country’s processed food producers, which in turn require industrial sugar for production.
Indonesia currently has 63 sugar mills owned by 18 companies, yet the majority of these facilities are no longer in operation due to underinvestment and low productivity.
In 2020, Indonesia was the 27th largest exporter of sugars and sugar confectioneries valued at US$315 million, but the same year also saw Indonesia importing $1.79 billion worth of sugar and sugar confectionaries, making it the third-biggest importer of sugar in the world.
For 2022, the Industry Ministry had set an import quota of 3.4 million tons for refined sugar (GKR) materials, while white sugar (GKP) made for consumption was set at 891,627 tons.
With regular fluctuations in both sugar prices and stocks during certain periods like Ramadan, it is quite clear that the national infatuation with sugar is still going strong. But beyond the obvious snacks and trendy drinks, Indonesian palates are actually infatuated with the saccharine — particularly Javanese cuisine aficionados.
Even so, it was not cane sugar that first captured the hearts of Indonesia, but rather palm sugar, known as gula jawa or gula aren.
According to Fadly, ancient Javanese scripts and inscriptions recorded the preferred method of adding the sweetness of the time: sugar derived from nira, which is the sap that comes from arenga pinnata — sugar palm.
Palm sugar, he continued, is used in a number of traditional dishes from the region, ranging from dodol (toffee-like palm-based confection) to es cendol (iced sweet dessert with green rice flour jelly, coconut milk and palm sugar syrup).
As for the obsession with white sugar, Fadly said that Javanese texts from the colonial era often put a higher prestige and status on European commodities, including sugarcane.
“This narrative was very strong in Javanese noble families of the era, such as the priyayi, regents and sultans. Those who were in close proximity to European influences are in turn influenced by their ideas, including tastes.
“It is ironic that colonialism was very much the enemy that spawned widespread resistance, but in terms of palates, it found its way into the daily life of nobles. For example, [RA Kartini’s] diaries mentioned European pastries as the height of civilization, and this was true of cookbooks published in the era that clearly stated that European ingredients such as sugar, butter and cheese were of higher status compared to others,” he explained.
Again, the colonial legacy lasts to this day. Come Ramadan or Christmas, the cookies served will inevitably have European influences in them. In the 1950s, founding father Sukarno even commented on the women in his Cabinet who felt more pride in serving European-influenced cookies over traditional snacks such as dodol and wingko (traditional pancake-like snacks made of coconut).
“In my observations, [colonial influences] have become ingrained in our collective palate unconsciously over a long period of time, where it has, in turn, caused a shift in our tastes. Take for example the binary distinction between ‘modern cuisine’ with its European influences and ‘traditional cuisine’ steeped in our culture,” Fadly concluded.
With all that sugar consumed regularly by the day, it is only common knowledge that too much sugar is harmful to one’s health.
Numerous studies and reports have showcased the negative effects of excessive sugar consumption, ranging from decreased vitamin and mineral intake, increased risk of Alzheimer’s disease and increased fat deposits around the heart and stomach, to increased risk of mortality from COVID-19.
The International Diabetes Federation (IDF) reported that in 2021, Indonesia recorded 19.5 million cases of diabetes, which is projected to rise to 23.3 million by 2030.
Meanwhile, the 2018 Basic Health Research (Riskesdas) report found that the prevalence of diabetes mellitus rose to 8.5 percent of the population in 2018, up from 6.9 percent in 2013. It also revealed that the prevalence of obesity rose from 14.8 to 21.8 percent over the same period, affecting about one-fifth of all adults.
Earlier in April, Jakarta-based thinktank Center for Indonesia’s Strategic Development Initiatives (CISDI) called on the government to impose excise taxes on all packaged sugary beverages, citing the increasing prevalence of diabetes and swelling healthcare spending for obesity-related diseases.
With the myriad debates and warnings throughout the years, is sugar really that dangerous for our health?
According to dr. Yushila Meyrina, M.Si., Sp.GK., FINEM, a nutrition specialist at Mayapada Hospital, the dangers of sugar have been wildly exaggerated, noting that controlled consumption of sugar will not lead to any adverse health conditions.
Sugar consumption works similar to daily calorie consumption, but even then, the widely referred 2,000-calories-per day-diet is not a one-size-fits-all solution, as every individual will have varied needs according to several factors, including gender, age, weight, activity levels and health conditions.
“Just like the varying calorie intake, sugar consumption can also differ — some may need more sugar than others depending on their activities as sugar is considered a macronutrient as part of carbohydrates.”
Macronutrients are made up of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats. Carbohydrates account for 45 to 50 percent of the calorie intake, with protein ranging from 15 to 20 percent and fats making up the rest.
Dr. Shila explained that excessive consumption of sugar can lead to adverse health conditions such as diabetes in the long run, while short-term effects can result in increased weight gain as unused sugar content will be stored in the body as fat.
But at the same time, she emphasized that underconsumption of sugar can take a worse toll on the human body, which can result in hypoglycemia or low blood sugar. Brain function will also decline as glucose is the main source of energy for the organ, as is feelings of fatigue due to low energy.
“Our daily sugar needs is quite significant at 50 grams, equivalent to four tablespoons [...] Essentially, we need to learn the sugar contents in our food so that we can gauge our intake,” she said.
For example, a regular sweet iced tea at a restaurant typically contains two tablespoons of sugar, which already covers half of the daily sugar intake needed even before factoring in the sugar that is contained in other food such as rice or bread.
But what about cheat days? Surely a treat or two is fine after a week of obsessively watching one’s plates and cups?
“A single cheat day will not result in obesity, but cheat day behaviors in everyday life — consistent consumption of small amounts — will accumulate and cause obesity [...] We also need to observe the correct eating schedules, as skipping breakfast but making up the calories during lunch and dinner isn’t good,” Dr. Shila said, adding that breakfast was vital in the production of serotonin, which regulates various human functions such as mood, cognition and memory.
The key is in recognizing the level of activities in the day; a cheat day during a weekend of being a couch potato will of course be different compared to extra helpings during a day full of physical activities.
For those with a confirmed sweet tooth, sugar substitutes can become a savior, though Dr. Shila also warned against consuming too much to make up for the sweetness of regular sugar.
Instead of substituting sugar, she continued, reducing the amount consumed is enough.
“Basically, one tablespoon of sugar and one tablespoon of honey contain the same number of calories, but they have different levels of sweetness. If we were to make one cup of green tea with honey, one teaspoon is enough as the sweetness is more intense.”
| Main writer | : | Josa Lukman |
| Contributors | : |
|
| Consultant | : | Maggie Tiojakin |
| Illustration | : | Darma Ahmadi |
| UI/UX Designer | : | Kevin Setiawan |
| Technology | : |
|