After years of destruction, Sebangau forest was named a national park with the goal of protecting it from further deforestation. More than 20 years later, forest degradation is still happening inside the park’s borders from agriculture and mining, raising questions about authorities’ efforts to preserve nature.
For many Dayak people, the indigenous dwellers of Kalimantan forests, an old adage remains their way of life: “Ingat peteh Tatu Hiang, petak danum akan kolunen harian andau” (Remember the advice of our ancestors; the land and water are for generations to come).
But as their home in the Indonesian part of Borneo Island has become one of the world’s flashpoints of deforestation, their belief in guarding their homeland and passing it down to their children has faded, along with the forests.
Sebangau, a vast peat swamp forest in Central Kalimantan, has become a critical case in which rapid deforestation and forest fires have continued to occur even after it was granted national park status in 2004, the country’s highest level of conservation that legally protects an ecosystem along with its biodiversity.
For many Dayak people, the indigenous dwellers of Kalimantan forests, an old adage remains their way of life: “Ingat peteh Tatu Hiang, petak danum akan kolunen harian andau” (Remember the advice of our ancestors; the land and water are for generations to come).
But as their home in the Indonesian part of Borneo Island has become one of the world’s flashpoints of deforestation, their belief in guarding their homeland and passing it down to their children has faded, along with the forests.
Sebangau, a vast peat swamp forest in Central Kalimantan, has become a critical case in which rapid deforestation and forest fires have continued to occur even after it was granted national park status in 2004, the country’s highest level of conservation that legally protects an ecosystem along with its biodiversity.
More than two decades later, the national park, which is eight times the size of Jakarta, has lost thousands of hectares of its forest cover to encroachment and tenurial conflicts, a pattern that has been widely reported across 57 national parks in the archipelago.
In April, The Jakarta Post went into the depths of Sebangau, witnessing the presence of illegal oil palm plantations that have become part of the supply chain of global brands like Cargill and Nestlé, while the Ngaju people, one of the largest subgroups of Dayak, have been uprooted from their ancestral homes.
Sebangau sits on the doorstep of Central Kalimantan’s provincial capital of Palangka Raya, which also shares the park area with neighboring Katingan and Pulang Pisau regencies. Three ancient rivers of Sebangau, Kahayan and Katingan crisscross the park, nourishing a vast network of peat swamp forests.
It intertwines with 39 villages and subdistricts, two thirds of which have Dayak-majority populations. Some are also situated along the 650-kilometer-long Katingan River on the western side of Sebangau.
With 80 percent of the area consisting of peat forests, Sebangau is also one of the country’s largest peatland ecosystems and is home to more than 8,700 Bornean orangutans that live on the verge of extinction.
The destruction of Sebangau forests can be traced back to a period between the 1970s and early 2000s, when the area was designated as an industrial forest plantation (HTI) that hosted dozens of timber concessions. At that time, peatlands were heavily drained to make way for more than 400 canals built to transport timber logs, while major watercourses were also diverted to irrigate monocrops.
The damage was so enormous that official data estimated that up to 85 percent of Sebangau had been left barren and that it would take several centuries to restore it to its pre-logged state. The massive destruction prompted the government to grant the national park status in 2004.
Unfortunately, the status has not stopped the deforestation and forest degradation.
According to analysis from environmental watchdog Auriga Nusantara, the park lost around 23,000 ha of its forest between 2015 and 2025, marking a 10,000-ha increase in permanent loss compared with the previous decade.
The peat swamps are faring no better. A report published in August 2025 by peatland-focused NGO Pantau Gambut reveals that nearly half of 669,000 ha of degraded peatlands in Central Kalimantan, are located along the corridor of the Kahayan and Sebangau rivers, which overlap with the national park.
“Half of the damage also impacts and overlaps with the national park area, raising the risk of flooding and forest fires,” said Wahyu Perdana, advocacy, campaign and communication manager for Pantau Gambut
Palm oil has become the main force of deforestation in Sebangau. Situated in Central Kalimantan, a major palm oil producing province, many parts of the forests have been encroached and turned into illegal plantations.
An analysis by Auriga found that nearly 2,000 ha of Sebangau National Park and its buffer zone had been cleared to make way for oil palm plantations in 2024, making it the sixth-largest oil palm encroachment among 57 national parks in the country.
Despite their unlawful status, these plantations, often categorized as smallholder plantations, have contributed to Indonesia's palm oil production, which has been the world’s largest since 2007.
Sebangau National Park office head Ruswanto confirmed that oil palm plantations inside the conservation area are unlawful and are the result of unsolved tenurial conflicts between park authorities and local residents.
“The presence of these plantations and mining sites is a serious threat to our endemic wildlife, the orangutan, which is the umbrella species and key species, because their corridors are ultimately being cut off,” Ruswanto told the Post in his office in Palangka Raya on April 30.
National park offices cannot stop forest encroachment because they are tasked with managing the conservation areas, not to engage in law enforcement.
The widespread existence of illegal palm oil plantations inside protected forests across Indonesia has alarmed the government, prompting President Prabowo Subianto to form the Forest Enforcement Task Force (Satgas PKH) in February last year.
The task force claimed to have seized 5.8 million ha of forest initially occupied by illegal palm oil plantation and mining businesses across the country, regaining state assets in forest areas worth Rp 371 trillion (US$20.88 billion). The seized forests included those situated inside national parks and other conservation areas.
Sebangau was no exception.
It was in July last year when the task force, which is comprised military personnel and local prosecutors, seized thousands of hectares of illegal plantations inside the national park, located in Bukit Tunggal, Habaring Hurung and Banturung, three subdistricts under the jurisdiction of Palangka Raya city.
The task force has installed multiple signboards that display a prohibition on further utilizing, encroaching or trading the seized plots of land.
But when the Post visited Banturung twice on April 27 and 30, oil palm trees were still covering the cluster of 1,462 ha that had been seized by the task force. A couple of trucks loaded with fresh fruit bunches (FFBs) were seen passing through on what appeared to be a regular working day.
An aerial observation by the Post that has been verified by Auriga revealed that the area is situated inside Sebangau’s rehabilitation zone.
Conversion of land use within national parks is strictly prohibited under the 2024 Natural Resources and Ecosystem Conservation Law, including within rehabilitation zones, which are designated to restore damaged park areas.
“I know nothing about the plantation [located inside the conservation area]. I’m just a newcomer, not a native,” a plantation worker, who preferred anonymity, told the Post during the Banturung visit on April 27.
The worker, who hails from a town in Java, said he had been working in the plantation since 2023. He revealed that the plantation could generate over 500 tonnes of FFBs each year.
The worker also revealed that the plantation had been supplying tonnes of FFBs to a local mill called PT Panca Mitra Katingan (PMK) in Katingan regency, outside the national park. In the mill facility, the FFBs are processed into crude palm oil (CPO), one of the country’s top export commodities.
Another worker separately said on April 30 that more than 14 plantations in the Banturung cluster had been supplying oil palm FFBs to PMK. They were loading FFBs onto a truck that was reportedly going to the PMK mill, located two hours drive from the plantation.
“We have supplied the mill with tonnes of oil palm fruit bunches since I began working here three years ago,” the worker said.