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The peaceful pools of the ancients
Historic Trowulan, an archaeological site in Mojokerto, East Java, has a wealth of artifacts buried in its soil
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Historic Trowulan, an archaeological site in Mojokerto, East Java, has a wealth of artifacts buried in its soil. Dutch Ir. Henri Maclaine Pont, who has shown great interest in this historic site, mapped out (in 1924) the original locations of temples, palaces, barracks, meeting halls, water reservoirs and canals, all dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries. Excavations and restorations continue, although at a snail's pace because of lack of funding.
At the center of the large park is a beautiful example of Trowulan's cultural heritage: Candi Tikus, unearthed in 1914 and in every aspect extraordinary in its own right.
Whereas other temples in Trowulan rise dignified above the ground, Candi Tikus lies below ground level.
This ancient architectural jewel, measuring 22.5 meters on each side, is believed to have been a royal bathhouse. Constructed entirely out of red brick, it goes down to a depth of 5.2 meters. It is easy to get down into pool thanks to a terraced wall with three flights of stairs on the north side.
Although water basins and pools can be found in every corner of the world, Candi Tikus stands out from others of its kind. While many bath pools were intended to bring users sensual pleasure, this brilliant architectural jewel is imbued with deep spiritual values.
Candi Tikus reflects its master architect's profound reflection and visualization of Mahameru, the serene abode of the gods, reconstructed in this corner of Trowulan. Hinduism holds that the abode of the gods sits high in the Himalayas and is surrounded by a vast pool of water that can bestow humans with eternal life. Thus, to combine architectural ambitions with philosophical visions, the architect crowned Candi Tikus with a miniature Hindu temple rising from the basin's floor.
It goes without saying that before taking a bath in this terracotta pool, bathers would wade into the middle of the pool, place some flower offerings at the temple and offer their prayers to the gods, before cleansing themselves.
And what a place to take a bath: Visitors will be impressed by peaceful and serene atmosphere that pervades ancient Candi Tikus.
The name Candi Tikus reflects the history of the place's discovery. Before it was uncovered, the area was suffering a mouse plague. Officials ordered a massive hunt to exterminate the rodents. But every time, villagers noticed the creatures escaping through a hole behind a mound of earth. The land was cleared, thus uncovering the terracotta temple came to surface. Further excavation work unveiled channels and spouts that piped in water from the tributaries of the mighty Brantas River. Subsequent restoration work, the latest phase being from 1984 through 1989, placed Candi Tikus at the center of a green park. But the meager budget of less than Rp 25 million was not enough to allow the reclamation of surrounding areas, which is currently farmland. It is believed that the royal bathhouse is part of a larger complex that could include a palace.
Another water-related historic treasure in Trowulan is Kolam Segaran. Located about 2 kilometers from Candi Tikus, and across the street of Museum Trowulan, the 6.5-hectare pool has a depth of 2.88 meters. It originally functioned as a water reservoir for irrigation, while also providing a recreation area for visiting dignitaries to cool off in the evening after enduring the hot sun over Mojokerto
Like other historical objects in Trowulan, Kolam Segaran is constructed of brick. Excavation work has uncovered channels for incoming and outgoing water, showing that the people of Majapahit were well aware of the importance of preserving and recycling water to ward off a water crisis.
Kolam Segaran is believed to be the largest pond with historical significance in Southeast Asia. It was discovered and restored in 1926 by Ir Henri Maclaine Pont. More in-depth restorations were carried out from 1974 through 1984. Archaeologists painstakingly replaced damaged or lost bricks with new ones, made with the same consistency as the old ones.
The restoration budget of more than Rp 54 million enabled the ancient pond to be fenced off and declared an ancient heritage, but was not enough for the Directorate of Archaeological Heritage to reclaim more than 16 percent of the Segaran archaeological area. Earlier studies mapped out four other archaeological sites just a few meters from Kolam Segaran.
Kolam Segaran attracted public attention after careless excavation work there during the construction of a new project caused serious damage to historical artifacts still buried.
Head of the Protection of Archaeological Heritage Agency (at the Directorate of Archeological Heritage), Syaiful Mujahid, commenting on the issue on Jan. 5, said the office had not been issued a permit for construction work there. The case, he added, was still being discussed by officials concerned about better coordination in managing the historical sites in Trowulan.
Lack of coordination and budget constraint are just some of the problems hampering preservation efforts in Trowulan.
Other problems requiring urgent attention are the population growth and the activities such as illegal mining of ancient bricks, which are then reprocessed and sold as building material. A clearer border is urgently needed to protect the area from land grabs.
With the rapid expansion of industries and transportation networks in East Java, the area also needs a green buffer zone to protect the area's ancient heritage from pollution.
