To mark his 30-year fashion journey, celebrated designer Didi Budiardjo aims to bring the fear and fairy tales
of romance to the runway.

For prominent designer Didi Budiardjo, it is the enigmatic quality of love that fascinates him the most.  

“I believe love is not complete without the presence of other feelings,” he told The Jakarta Post at his studio in South Jakarta. 

“Love comes with its darker side like a broken heart, jealousy and much more. Love is a complex thing.”

The beauty and pain of falling in love is the main inspiration for Terlahir Kembali (Reborn), a fashion show to mark Didi’s 30 years in the fashion industry.

At the show taking place at the Tribrata in Darmawangsa, South Jakarta, on Tuesday, Didi will showcase his forte of creating refined and chic evening dresses. 

“[The title] comes from my contemplation on what I have done in the last 30 years,” Didi said, adding that Terlahir Kembali is his first show that uses an Indonesian title.

Memories: Didi borrowed dresses from some of his customers for his solo exhibition, Pilgrimage, in 2015.(Courtesy of Didi Budiardjo)

“I believe that 30 years is the cycle of rebirth for me. It is just like fashion that always renews itself,” he added.

Under the helm of creative director Felix Tjahjadi, the show will present 30 evening dresses with a color scheme inspired by Sinta of the Ramayana epic.

“It centers on the sacred heart of Sinta. It follows her through her long journey, starting when she steps into the forest,” the designer said. “Perhaps few know that at the end Sinta vanishes into the ground, which will be represented with earthy and dark shades in the dresses.”

Terlahir Kembali is not the first event that marks the milestones of Didi’s illustrious fashion journey. Back in 2015, Didi marked his 25-year career with the Curiosity Cabinet fashion show, featuring 56 dresses inspired by his memories and fantasies. There was also the Pilgrimage exhibition, where Didi put on a display of 300 items relating to his inspirations and past creations at the Textile Museum in Central Jakarta.

Fantasy: The Curiosity Cabinet show, held in 2015, was the celebration of Didi's 25-year fashion journey, presenting 56 dresses inspired by his memories and fantasies in the industry.(Courtesy of Didi Budiardjo)

Passion and perseverance

Didi is among the pantheon of Indonesian leading designers. He drew wide recognition for his sophisticated creations. Yet, just like many great creators, Didi still feels he has not shown his best yet.

“My biggest regret until now is not doing good enough. But I guess it is a learning process that one has to go throughout his life.”

Didi’s maturity and long experience are not always seen as an advantage in the fashion industry that is constantly looking for young blood.

“I was branded as a young designer. But 30 years have passed, am I still considered young? Being young or old is a sensitive issue in the fashion scene. People are always looking for the younger choices.”

Though the environment is tough, Didi prevails. His fashion house still proudly stands and reached the 30-year mark — a rare achievement in an era where creative and financial challenges have wiped many designers away from the fashion scene.

“I’ve often asked myself, why did they close their fashion houses before reaching 30 years old? They were way better than me and enjoyed wider exposure.”

Looking back at his career, Didi says it took passion, perseverance and support from people around him to be what he is today.

“I am lucky to meet the right people in my life,” he said.

Who are they? A large statue of a mother embracing her baby displayed on the corner of his office seems to give a clue.  

“I am blessed to have three mothers. First, my biological mother Lisa Ayodhia, my mother in fashion Susan Budihardjo and my mother in the organization Sjamsidar Isa. They have provided balance in my life.”

Born in Malang, East Java, on Nov. 22, 1970, Didi showed an interest in art from an early age. His passion for women’s wear was inspired by women around him, especially his mother. 

In 1988, he enrolled in Susan Budihardjo’s School of Fashion in Jakarta before continuing his studies at the Atelier Fleuri Delaporte in Paris, France, in 1991. 

Didi is an active member of the Indonesian Designers Association (IPMI), which is led by Sjamsidar Isa.

Fashionable journey: Back in 2015, Didi held the Pilgrimage exhibition in Jakarta, featuring his sketches, images, piles of books and dresses that he designed.(JP/Dhoni Setiawan)

Lifelong learning

Though he has earned a reputation as a designer, Didi keeps looking for new challenges. He recently created a rug embellished with Swarovski-crystals in collaboration with Indonesian rug producer Moire.

“I love to design everything. As a designer, I felt that I needed to tame that challenge,” he said.  

The black and white rug, named Enchanted French Garden, is inspired by the labyrinthine Versailles garden.

Many of his works, indeed, are inspired by history.

On his Instagram, he loves to shares photos from the past, including one photo of Paku Buwono IX, a Muslim Surakartan king in the 19th century who curiously wore a cross necklace.

“I love to read many kinds of literature although it does not relate to fashion. It eventually enriches me. Just last year, I went to the eastern part of Indonesia — Ternate, Tidore and Morotai — to give mentoring on fabric design. The trip allowed me to learn about their history.”

At the age of 48, Didi is glad that he has grown wiser and gained a better understanding of himself.  

“I still have many dreams, but I got to know myself better and realize that I have many limitations. I used to be ambitious, but today, I am more realistic. I have a more realistic view about what I want to achieve.”