Legacy, landscapes and lives: The tales of Nusantara

Dio Suhenda

Jan 8, 2024
IKN Building Cover

The Nusantara Capital City

The new city will be the largest legacy of President Joko “Jokowi” Widodo, who aims to bow out of his second and final term in October 2024 from a brand-spanking new presidential palace. Amid steel tracery that emulates the wings of the mythical bird Garuda, the nation’s symbol, the palace will stand firm on a hill deep in the rainforests of East Kalimantan.

Nusantara is designed to be a sprawling forest city dotted with state-of-the-art structures and infrastructure. The city is expected to champion public transportation and walkability, fitted with technology straight out of a science fiction novel, such as automated electric buses and flying cars.

The Jokowi administration is aiming for Aug. 17, 2024, when the nation celebrates its 79th Independence Day, as the official start of relocating the Indonesian capital away from Jakarta, a nearly 500-year-old sinking metropolis notorious for its perennial pollution and traffic problems.

By then, construction is expected to be complete on Nusantara’s Central Government Area (KIPP), the administrative heart of the new capital consisting of the presidential palace, the coordinating ministers’ offices and other key government buildings and housing facilities, ready to welcome thousands of government workers transmigrating from Jakarta.

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The KIPP complex, spanning 6,600 hectares or the equivalent of eight soccer fields, is only a fraction of Nusantara’s total area of 256,000 ha, roughly four times the size of the old capital.

Building a city as ambitious as Nusantara will cost the state nearly Rp 541 trillion (US$35 billion), divided across several stages of development through to 2045, the centenary of Indonesian independence.

Not wanting to fan concerns that Nusantara represents a huge and misguided prioritization of state spending, the government has limited funding from the state coffers to just 20 percent of the project, putting the lion’s share of financing the city’s construction on investors’ shoulders.

Building a megacity from scratch has taken its toll on the lives of the native Balik people that used to call the newly cut forests and dammed rivers their home. The indigenous community, residing around a 30-minute drive from the site of the new capital, is starting to lose their traditional ways of life and fearing for the ownership of their land.

While his predecessors had often discussed moving the capital out of Jakarta, Jokowi is on track to be the first Indonesian president to realize the idea, despite persistent questions about the project’s feasibility and urgency, as well as the environmental damage it might cause.

Here is the story about how the 256,000-ha future city is to become the symbol of Indonesia’s development during the Jokowi era, bringing with it not only hopes for better lives but also concerns that the new capital will adversely impact the centuries-old traditions of local residents.

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01

Welcome to the concrete jungle

During a visit in October to Nusantara in North Penajam Paser, East Kalimantan, The Jakarta Post saw firsthand the hustle and bustle of building a new capital that befits a country with sky-high ambitions.

On March 14, 2022, Jokowi invited several regional leaders to Nusantara's Kilometer Zero to symbolically break ground on the new capital city, the eucalyptus trees cultivated at pulpwood plantations around the site serving as a backdrop for the event.

Some 1.5 years later, the view from Kilometer Zero is starkly different, the majority of trees replaced by construction workers and heavy equipment working day and night.

Thousands of workers, identifiable by their yellow hard hats, thronged the construction site amid the multiple cranes jutting into the horizon.

The air was acrid throughout October, filled with the dust flung up by the wheels of heavy-duty trucks and excavators going to and fro across the dry ground, which had not seen rain for many months during a dry season exacerbated by the impacts of El Niño.

From an observation tower atop a hill on Jl. Sumbu Kebangsaan Barat, one of the two main thoroughfares running parallel to the new presidential palace, the KIPP looked like an ant colony scurrying with activity: some areas had deep open trenches filled with multiple tunnels for power cables and water pipes, others with building foundations from which iron beams reached toward the skies above.

Across the street, the future presidential palace stood tall, overlooking several buildings believed to house the future offices of four coordinating ministers, the state secretariat and the cabinet secretariat.

Belowground, workers were focusing their efforts on fitting Jl. Sumbu Kebangsaan Barat with 2-meter-deep utility tunnels, said Misbah, one of the project’s safety, health and environment officers. The tunnel was expected to be completed by the end of 2023, after which they would pour concrete.

Not far from the KIPP, workers were wrapping up construction on 36 houses to accommodate the country’s 34 cabinet ministers and, reportedly, the chief justices of the Supreme Court and the Constitutional Court.

The designs of the three-story houses, each occupying around 580 square meters on a 1,300 sq m plot, would not appear out of place in the high-end housing complexes in Jakarta’s suburbs, such as BSD City in South Tangerang, Banten, developed by Sinar Mas Land.

The property giant also has a hand in Nusantara’s development, as part of a consortium of real estate moguls set to develop the city’s first five-star hotel, and has launched its own complex in nearby Balikpapan.

Each ministerial home has an office, a living room, three bedrooms and a separate living space for aides and household assistants. They cost around Rp 14 billion ($907,000) to build and furnish, according to Setyo, a manager of the ministerial housing complex project, which is slated for completion by June 2024.

Nearby is the site of an apartment complex for civil servants who will move to Nusantara, but as of late October 2023, the facility’s groundbreaking ceremony had not taken place.

Nusantara’s development is riding on the hard work of thousands of construction workers, most of who hail from outside East Kalimantan and are housed in nine of 22 residential towers, along with project managers and on-site experts.

These purpose-built towers can accommodate 11,000 people. As of October, 5,000 rooms were filled with 3,000 more workers expected to move in before the end of the year. Each tower comes equipped with a cafeteria, a small health clinic and a mosque

Longform IKN Longform IKN The ongoing construction of Jl. Sumbu Kebangsaan Barat, one of the two main arterial roads in Nusantara’s Core Government Area (rightbottom). Along the road will stand several government offices, including the office of a coordinating ministry (lefttop), which was still skeletal during The Jakarta Post’s visit to the Nusantara site in October 2023.
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We want to build a city that is not only livable but also lovable. Nusantara is going to be a green and smart city, with features of a digital society. If we’re talking about [how Nusantara will look like] in 2045, we will not only have created a new city, but a new civilization

Bambang Susantono IKN Authority head

Building a civilization from scratch

“What is the city but the people?”

Bambang Susantono, head of the Nusantara Capital City (IKN) Authority, quoted the above phrase from William Shakespeare’s Coriolanus when he was asked to describe the development plans for the country’s new capital.

“We want to build a city that is not only livable, but also lovable. Nusantara is going to be a green and smart city with the features of a digital society,” Bambang told the Post. “If we’re talking about [how it will look] in 2045, we will have created not only a new city, but a new civilization.”

Nusantara would also be a “10-minute city”, he continued, referring to the walking distance between transit hubs and other facilities. 

The new city would also be equipped with digital public administration and transportation systems, with the latter to include passenger drones, also known as sky taxis.

“These technologies are still in their proof of concept stage for the next five years. But in the next six to 10 years, we’ll begin seeing this tech become available [in Nusantara],” Bambang said.

Not even the sky is the limit, and it is an open secret that financing the ambitious project will take a gargantuan effort.

President Jokowi, who was a savvy businessman before he turned to politics in 2005, has spared no effort in seeking investment for the city, going on tours with numerous cabinet members to woo both local and foreign investors.

These efforts have started to bear fruit, Bambang claims, with the IKN Authority receiving close to 300 letters of intent (LOIs) from potential investors as of October, half of them from foreign investors.

Converting LOIs into hard cash, however, has proved to be another challenge thus far.

Jokowi and his ministers have flown to many corners of the world promoting Nusantara and wooing investors to put their money in the future capital. The President even went to the United States to sell Indonesia’s green, futuristic capital to American CEOs in late November 2023, during the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) CEO Summit in San Francisco.

Yet, no concrete foreign investment has materialized to date.

“I think there will be a lot [of foreign investment], it’s just that we are prioritizing domestic investors,” the President told the press after returning from his US trip.

To this end, Nusantara has seen multiple groundbreaking ceremonies for supporting infrastructure projects, most of which are being built by private companies. Jokowi has officiated most of these ceremonies, giving his blessing to private hospitals, a school, a mall, hotels and a soccer stadium spearheaded by the Soccer Association of Indonesia (PSSI).

With additional ceremonies planned, Bambang said work on Nusantara would be ramped up over the several months leading to Independence Day 2024, when the new capital would be unveiled to the world in all its glory, or lack thereof.

Jakarta is said to be the city that never sleeps, but Nusantara might soon replace the old metropolis as the lights from dozens of cranes illuminate the night sky above and the construction work below, continuing long after the sun has set.

02

No (more) place like home

A 30-minute drive away from Nusantara’s Kilometer Zero, lies a sleepy village called Sepaku Lama, where around 100 families of the native Balik indigenous people have lived and plied their trades.

In years gone by, most of them lived as farmers living month-to-month on their harvests of padi gunung (mountain rice). Their homes, made of wood and covered by thatched palm leaves, are mostly spread along the Sepaku River which has been an integral part of their lives and traditions for generations.

But the river is now blocked by the Sepaku Intake Dam, one of many river dams set to be the source of clean water for Nusantara.

The bed of the lively river where people used to fish has become arid land. The fertile floodplains, where people used to grow fruit and vegetables, has become barren. The mighty current, an integral way for the Balik community to transport goods and people across and to and from the village, has all but dried up.

Longform IKN Sibukdin, elder of Sepaku Lama village, is worried that the people of the indigenous Balik community will lose their lands due to their lack of clear land ownership.

Facing the threat of losing their way of life and concerned with the fate of their children, residents of Sepaku Lama have long called for solutions from the government on how to make Nusantara, along with its decades of development, more inclusive.

“With the arrival of the new capital, we’re worried that we will be pushed aside by this development,” village elder Sibukdin told the Post. “We’re not rejecting [the new city]. Who doesn't want to be modernized and part of the development? What we want is for our lives not to be disrupted.”

The Sepaku Lama residents are now living in legal limbo, according to Sibukdin. Many of them, having lived in the village even before Indonesia declared independence nearly 80 years ago, do not have deeds for their land or homes.

They have been promised numerous times that they will not fall victim to eviction, but the fear lingers.

Recently, villagers had negotiations with the IKN Authority during which they were told that Sepaku Lama would be turned into a “cultural village” to become a tourism destination, although the officials fell short of detailing what the proposal would exactly entail.

“We’re very receptive of [the proposal] to turn our village into a cultural one,” Sibukdin said. “But the most important thing about our culture is our livelihoods. How can anyone sing and dance if they are hungry, or make trinkets if they’re evicted from their homes?”

Longform IKN Sibukdin, elder of Sepaku Lama village, is worried that the people of the indigenous Balik community will lose their lands due to their lack of clear land ownership.
Longform IKN Becce, 54-year-old Sepaku Lama resident, wants to pass her land on to her children and grandchildren, but the construction of Nusantara may threaten that wish.

The edge of development

Becce, a Sepaku Lama resident, lives on the front-line of Nusantara’s development.

Her home has turned into a construction site for the Sepaku Intake Dam. Less than a stone’s throw from her backyard, where she would plant fruit and vegetables, are 4-meter-high concrete walls where the river used to be.

The rumble of construction drills reverberates in the living room of her wooden stilt house, where she used to weave palm leaves into thatched roofs for a living.

“I haven’t been able to make any roofs these past two months,” Becce, 54, said when the Post visited her house in October.

Longform IKN Becce, 54-year-old Sepaku Lama resident, wants to pass her land on to her children and grandchildren, but the construction of Nusantara may threaten that wish.

She usually finds the palm leaves in the forest upstream by rowing her boat or traveling by land when the river is not navigable. “But as long as the [construction] work is there, I can’t go anywhere,” Becce continued.

Having lost access to the forest, Becce has been relying solely on a small warung (food kiosk) she opened on her front porch to make ends meet for her and her family. She fears that losing her income will only be the tip of the iceberg of what the new capital project will claim from her.

“[I’m] afraid there will be no more land, no more place to live,” Becce said. “The most important thing about having land is to [pass it on] to our children and grandchildren.”

Becce has been given monetary compensation for the plot of land occupied by the Sepaku Dam project. But when asked if she would rather receive more money or have the project stopped altogether, she did not skip a beat saying that she would choose the latter.

“For us who have been accustomed to a slow and simple life, we don’t feel safe when there are so many [construction workers] around,” Becce added.

The capital project has spelled the end for most farmers in the village, said Mustafa, head of the local farmers’ community. They either lost their land through being bought out for the capital or had their access to the river for irrigation cut off.

Exacerbating the situation, the 59-year-old farmer in Sepaku Lama said that the villagers now rely on free shipments of water from the construction company handling the Sepaku Intake Dam project. Like many others, he fears a future where locals will have to pay for water in their own village.

“Once the dam is up and running, [we hope] that we can continue sourcing our water from the river,” Mustafa said. “It’s ridiculous if we can’t take water from the dam when it’s located right in the middle of our land.”

Longform IKN The new capital city may be the end for most farmers in the village who lose their land through being bought out for the project or have their access to the river for irrigation cut off, said 59-year-old Mustafa, head of the local farmers’ community.

Getting to know the Balik community

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The Sepaku River, which flows through a large part of North Penajam Paser regency in East Kalimantan, is essential to the Balik community. People from the community use it for their daily household needs, as irrigation for their crops and transportation connecting villages in the region.
The river’s name is taken from the fern plant that grows along its banks, which is called paku in the native Balik language.
Skirmishes in the region during the Dutch colonial era and Indonesian War of Independence, forced the Balik people to relocate 50 kilometers west to a region called West Kutai regency today. Some groups also moved to Balikpapan in the south.
Traditionally, the Balik people relied on stellar constellations to determine the start of harvest and drought seasons. They, however, no longer practice this tradition.
The Balik people have their own version of traditional music, played using a sitar-like plucked string instrument made of the wood of a langsat tree called a gambus. They also have their own form of stage play called Memandak, which relates the history of their people.
Source: Nyapu published by the East Kalimantan chapter of Mining Advocacy Network (Jatam Kaltim)Photo credit: Akbar djaelani yahya via Wikimedia Commons | CC BY-SA 4.0 (Paku); KITLV/Netherlands Indies Government Information Service (Dutch skirmishes); Unsplash/Jose G. Ortega Castro (Constellation); YouTube/Hepatri Project (Gambus)

"People of Nusantara"

While some locals felt they were being uprooted from their lives by the capital project, head of the IKN Authority Bambang Susantono gave an assurance that local communities would have a part to play in Nusantara’s development.

Insisting that the authority has built close relationships with the local community, he said that it “wanted to see their lives become better with the development of Nusantara.”

“For instance, if we make rest areas [on toll roads leading to Nusantara], they can set up small businesses. We will also prepare a place for them to showcase their culture,” he added.

Longform IKN The locals living the Nusantara project will become a part of the new capital city project, said Nusantara Capital City (IKN) Authority head Bambang Susantono.

The capital authority has started giving out employment training to prepare locals to take up new lines of work in businesses opening in Nusantara, such as coffee shop baristas and laundry workers. The locals have also been offered entrepreneurial classes so that they can open their own businesses.

But when asked if the authority would provide legal certainty for the locals’ land, Bambang said his office would not be drawn on that matter.

“I think it’s better to see them as the people of Nusantara rather than doing unproductive things,” he said. “I feel that the dialogue we have had so far has been quite good.”

Longform IKN The locals living the Nusantara project will become a part of the new capital city project, said Nusantara Capital City (IKN) Authority head Bambang Susantono.

Jumping on the Nusantara bandwagon

03

Longform IKN The Prasmanan Djowo restaurant established by Balikpapan native Arif has generated more income than all his previous food ventures in Java combined.

When life gives you lemons, make lemonade.

This old adage could perhaps best describe the trail of entrepreneurial spirit that has followed the development of Nusantara in East Kalimantan, as locals and newcomers alike have begun to take the economic opportunity the new capital project offers them by the scruff of its neck.

An example is Arif, a Balikpapan native who in early October 2023 opened a restaurant on the main road leading up to the new capital. His restaurant Prasmanan Djowo, bearing the slogan of “Selera Nusantara” (Flavor of Nusantara), is located in Sepaku district, North Penajam Paser, some 8 kilometers from the new capital’s Kilometer Zero.

Longform IKN The Prasmanan Djowo restaurant established by Balikpapan native Arif has generated more income than all his previous food ventures in Java combined.

He previously opened restaurants in Central and East Java but they were not successful, forcing him to look for greener pastures.

“When I went home to meet my parents in Balikpapan in December [2022], I had a thought: Why not open a restaurant around the new capital? It must have good business prospects,” he said.

He eventually found a plot of land for lease and built a semi-permanent structure in April 2023, before finally launching his restaurant just a week before the Post’s visit in early October. The restaurant was, unfortunately, met with a cold shoulder from the locals on its grand opening.

“But day two, day three and up to today, [the response] has been great. Right now, its revenue is even better than my restaurants in Java,” Arif recounted.

In the few months of living around the Nusantara project, Arif has noticed that more people and workers have come to live in the vicinity. More businesses are also under construction or opening up.

Kuswatun Hasanah, who is of Javanese descent but has lived in Sepaku her whole life, also saw a business opportunity coming with the capital project. She invested some Rp 250 million to turn her backyard into a modest five-room homestay.

She said she had the idea of opening up a homestay back in January 2023, when more people started coming to the district. She also noticed there were not enough rooms in existing lodgings to accommodate these visitors.

Longform IKN The rooms of the homestay managed by Kuswatun Hasanah are almost always full, especially when President Joko “Jokowi” Widodo visits the new capital project site.

“[My rooms] are almost always full, especially when Pak Jokowi comes to town. [My rooms] will all be booked out from the week prior,” Kuswatun said.

Having opened up her homestay in April 2023, the new capital project along with the thousands of workers and visitors it brings through has spurred the local economy, Kuswatun said. She hopes to see Nusantara’s development continue until its full completion slated for 2045, even when Jokowi leaves office next year.

Longform IKN The rooms of the homestay managed by Kuswatun Hasanah are almost always full, especially when President Joko “Jokowi” Widodo visits the new capital project site.

IKN construction phase

New lease on life for ‘Old’ Sepaku

In Sepaku Lama, home to the native Balik tribe, village elder Sibukdin was busy preparing for an impromptu teleconference call with Tourism and Creative Economy Minister Sandiaga Uno.

During his meeting with Sandiaga, Sibukdin hoped to sell the prospect of local tourism in Sepaku Lama and the nearby Mount Parung, the highest peak in the new capital area, located around 10 km from the village.

The road to Mt. Parung is wide enough to fit two trucks. But it is barely paved and littered with potholes from bearing the weight of trucks carrying felled trees from the surrounding pulpwood plantations.

To reach the mountain’s basecamp, the last access point for cars, visitors have to pass through hill upon hill of eucalyptus and acacia trees, fast-growing tree variants usually grown in monoculture pulp plantations.

One of the main attractions of Mt. Parung is a non-active quarry that has been transformed into a tranquil pond nestled deep in the still-pristine greenery of the mountain. The old quarry, according to Sibukdin, was a popular spot for swimming among local youths.

The mountain’s peak itself is located an hour’s hike away from the quarry. Mt. Parung also has a cliff face that Sibukdin believes is suitable for rock climbing or hang gliding.

The water in the former quarry was shallow at the time of the Post’s visit thanks to the months-long El Nino-induced drought hitting the region. But it did not stop Sibukdin from envisioning the site as a nature attraction in the future.

“Should the government [...] give a good response, we’ll be happy to clean up the quarry so it can be a fitting place for tourism. The view here is really good,” said Sibukdin.

After his teleconference call with Minister Sandiaga, the village elder said Sepaku Lama residents hoped that turning Mt. Parung into a tourist attraction could provide villagers and their children with a new source of income, especially if they lose their traditional way of life due to the Nusantara project.

“The [economic] potential is huge. We also want to take part in the development of the new capital here in Sepaku,” Sibukdin said. “Mt. Parung is our only capital. We don’t have the papers to show that it is ours, but it’s clear that we have known this mountain for generations.”

While Sibukdin is still waiting to hear from the government about Mt. Parung, work on the KIPP marches on at a pace only matched by Bandung Bondowoso of Javanese legend, said to have built thousands of temples overnight.

In late September, President Jokowi said that progress on the KIPP had reached 38 percent. That figure had nearly doubled two months later, when Public Housing and Works Minister Basuki Hadimuljono told the press that 60 percent of the first construction stage for the Nustantara KIPP was complete.

The sinking old capital of Jakarta may finally rest easier come August 2024, if the President is able to inaugurate Nusantara as scheduled before he makes the curtain call of his second and final term.

And if that happens, it will be time for the people of East Kalimantan to rise under the shadow of Garuda atop the Nusantara presidential palace, either with concerns over whether they can still live on their ancestral land or with a hope that the new capital will mean better lives.

 

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