Almost all major cities in Indonesia are home to a chinatown, including Surabaya, the nation's second largest city. Kampung Tambak Bayan, situated on the banks of the Kalimas River that divides the city center, is no gleaming gated community, but one of the poorest areas of Surabaya.

The area was the site of Istal Kuda [horse stables] during the Dutch colonial era and Japanese occupation during World War II. Chinese migrants from Canton began residing in the area from 1930, taking jobs as carpenters, stable hands and cooks. The 30 households in the area today are their descendants.

Most of the families live in residences measuring 4 x 4 meters, neatly arranged within the hall-like structure of the former stables although several other families reside in adjacent houses.

Despite their tough economic conditions, the residents live in harmony. Traditional Chinese customs and cultural observations persist and the residents extend a friendly greeting to visitors. 

However, the area is threatened by the proposed development of a hotel. The prospect of losing their longtime home haunts the locals.

"We were born and grew up in Istal. I am a fourth generation ethnic Chinese living in Tambak Bayan," said Gepeng, a young activist in the area.

Photo and Words: JP/ Tarko Sudiarno