Unknown to many, the free-from-tourist capital of Australia is a city that brings together elements of the country's past, present and future, filled with architectural gems for everybody to enjoy.

With a population of 350,000 living in a vast area of more than 800 square kilometers, Canberra is the antithesis of overpopulated Jakarta. The sky is peppered with stars at night, but its streets are deserted as people living in Canberra enjoy a good tucker at home. The "Civic", or the central city district, feels empty in the evenings, especially in the middle of the week. This serene capital of Australia, devoid of skyscrapers, has given architectural whiz kids carte blanche to design the wildest wonders.

Located on the edges of Lake Burley Griffin in the city, the National Museum of Australia (NMA, www.nma.gov.au) has attracted more than five million people since it opened in 2001, and won the country's top award for best major tourist attraction twice, in 2005 and 2006. Designed by two architects from Melbourne who entered an international design competition, the NMA exhibits a dynamic and colorful structure that sparks visual curiosity.

The steel formation resembling a roller-coaster reflects the flow of multicultural life, not only along the bends of the Molonglo River, but also across the Great Southland. It is a part of the Uluru line, a sculpture extending across the Acton Peninsula. Starting at the entrance canopy, the line swoops up into the loop - a great 30 meters-high curve - then continues as a wide red footpath past the Australian Institute of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Studies.

"The National Museum explores Australia's past, illuminates the present and imagines the future," said director of NMA Craddock Morton. The design is a contemporary interpretation of all the things that have made Australia what it is today.

Inside, the NMA is home to the more than 200,000 historical and indigenous objects collected since 1980. Five permanent galleries and a range of temporary exhibitions profile 50,000 years of Indigenous heritage, the British settlement period from 1788 onwards, and key events including the forming of the Federation in 1901 - when British self-governing colonies of New South Wales, Tasmania, Victoria, Queensland, South Australia, and Western Australia formed a federation - and the 2000 Sydney Olympic Games. There is also a section devoted to the stories of unresolved disappearance cases across the country. Was Lindy Chamberlain's baby daughter really stolen by a dingo (feral dog) at Ayer's Rock, or murdered by her own mother?

Outside, the Garden of Australian Dreams, a map of the country, illustrates how the Great Southland is a home to many, with the word "home" written in 100 different languages. The lines that meander across the map include the dingo fence - the world's longest fence built to keep feral dogs from certain parts of Australia, surveyors' reference marks and Indigenous nation and language boundaries.

Australia's fenceless Parliament House (www.aph.gov.au) epitomizes the openness that Canberra, as the capital of a multicultural country, wants to project. Its staggering 81-metre-high stainless steel flagpole looks almost like an rocket launcher, pointing out to the sky.

Much like other architectural wonders in the country, the design of this new Parliament House was the result of a competition under the aegus of the Royal Australian Institute of Architects. Held in 1978, the competition drew 329 entries from 28 countries. A New York-based firm, Mitchell, Giurgola & Thorp Architects, won the competition with a design that from above, looks like two boomerangs inside a circle. The building was opened by Queen Elizabeth II on May 9, 1988, replacing the Old Parliament House that now functions as a parliamentary museum.

The sweeping green lawns leading up to the entrance of the House send a welcoming message. A visitor without an appointment could visit the premises with less difficulty than entering a shopping mall in Jakarta. The Parliament's marble and timber reflect the strong, powerful land elements. Columns that support the high ceiling in the foyer endorse a brawny sense of Australia as one of the world's oldest democracies.

Visitors may roam freely in public galleries and marvel at selected artworks from the Parliament House Art collection, portraits from the Historic Memorials collection, and gifts made to the House. Both House of Representatives and Senate chambers are also open on non-sitting days. Even when the Parliament is holding a meeting, visitors are welcome to observe the proceedings.

As well as celebrating democracy, the Parliament also encourages a relaxed lifestyle. The Queen's Terrace Caf* may be used for apolitical blind dates. Climb up to the roof, around the glass pyramid right under the flagpole, and enjoy the spectacular Canberra vista!

While the NMA provides an insight into Australian history and the Parliament House gives the visitor an overview of how the country works, the newly opened National Portrait Gallery (www.portrait.gov.au) showcases Australian personalities that have shaped the country, from its founding father James Cook to songbird Kylie Minogue. This time, a Sydney-based architectural firm, Johnston Pilton Walker, won the competition in 2005. Construction started a year later, and in December 2008, the gallery was opened to the public.

Just like a portrait's frame, the basic shape of the building is rectangular, with wood dominating the interior. The long and open walkway to the entrance gives visitors a chance to slowly immerse themselves in the beautiful surroundings, before entering a building with some 400 portraits of individuals who have defined the country. A legal act of voyeurism into the core character of Australia.

The building gives a sense of intimacy between viewers and the people depicted inside the frames. Windows and glass panels extending from the floor to the ceiling connect every individual inside with the vast landscape outside. The natural light thus does wonders to the people in the portraits.

The most precious gem of the Gallery is John Webber's 1782 portrait of Captain James Cook, acquired in 2000. The Gallery has also commissioned artist David Rosetzky to record a video portrait of award-winning actress Cate Blanchett. The result is an intimate short movie that explores the most gentle and subtle part of the Blanchett's charm.

Inside Canberra's staggering architectural wonders, the city offers an experience of Australia to its deeper core - its people, country, history and culture.

And for those itching to take advantage of the natural beauty around Canberra, it is possible to go hot air ballooning early in the morning to float across the city's skyline or hover over the Parliament House. Kids can have fun creating their own future aircrafts, and see them flying at the NMA's three-dimensional theatre. On the outskirts of Canberra, one can go horse riding around the real bush and encounter wild kangaroos. The quiet and serene Canberra is a path to the country's heart and soul.

Getting There

A number of airlines fly regularly from Sydney. Driving from Sydney will take around three to four hours.

Getting Around

Public transport consists of buses and taxis, but the healthiest way may be to cycle around town. Rental companies can deliver the bicycles to your hotel.

Temperature

Summer temperatures vary between 12 to 27 degrees Celsius, while in winter, temperatures can drop to 1 degree Celsius. Spring mornings tend to be fresh but days are usually sunny and nights crisp clear. Expect cool and windy nights, as well as chilly days during autumn.

Accommodation

The Hyatt Hotel Canberra is historic, warm and suitable for business travelers. The contemporary boutique Diamant Hotel offers a different experience, both for leisure and business traveler. Serviced apartments are also available for longer stays, and situated in an area filled with local bistros and cafes. Budget lodgings are plentiful in the Civic area.

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