It is said that each generation, society and even nation will write and rewrite history looking at the past anew from their perspectives, biases and possibly the benefit of hindsight.

Different generations and peoples may tell different histories. Gedung Batu, or Sam Poo Kong Temple as it is also known, is one such place where various histories have been told over the years.

This is, perhaps, a result of the mix of cultures and peoples that have lived here. It is said that this place was once a mosque where Muslims would come to commune with their God. Therefore it has been suggested that Gedung Batu was once a holy place for Muslims, while today it is a Chinese temple where deities are honored and prayers are said. Regardless, it remains a sanctuary for worship and spirituality, perhaps as a result of its nature.

The nature that must have originally made this place seem to be a good place to worship, contemplate and meditate is now, however, relatively hidden away behind a huge Chinese temple complex. A relatively small cave in a large mound or small hill of rock has drawn people for spiritual contemplation for some centuries now.

It is a Chinese admiral by the name of Cheng Ho (also called Zheng He) who landed at Semarang in the early 15th century and is said to have found this cave in what was then a small village. He was drawn there for spiritual thought and perhaps respite. It is even claimed that the name of Semarang comes from his landing here.

Gedung Batu, also known as the Sam Poo Kong Temple, is said to have inherited its name from the Chinese: Sam Po Lang can be translated as “the city of Sam Po” – Sam Po being another name for Admiral Cheng Ho.

Cheng Ho, a noted explorer, sailed throughout Asia and across to Africa with a fleet of about 200 ships and crew numbering in the thousands. Again, depending on whose history is read, he was either a peaceful diplomat or an aggressive raider, but at Gedung Batu, he is portrayed as someone who facilitated trade and peaceful allegiances.

Perhaps unusually too, he was a Chinese Muslim, and is believed to be partly responsible for the spread of Islam through South-East Asia. It is conceivable that his Muslim roots are part of the reason for this site also being revered as a Muslim holy place.

Gedung Batu translates as “the Stone Building”, which is essentially the core of the complex. The stone building is the cave in the hillock but now the walls surrounding that cave are covered in often remarkably detailed relief depictions of Cheng Ho’s exploits. These depictions emphasize the heroic exploits and peacemaking efforts of Cheng Ho throughout South-East Asia.

There are scenes that represent Cheng Ho acting as a mediator between the peoples of Malacca and Siam (now Malaysia and Thailand). Elsewhere it is claimed, and illustrated that he worked to rid the seas of piracy but this undermines his position as a peaceful diplomat for it is said he saw to the killing of 5,000 pirates and burning of 10 ships.

There undoubtedly was much brutality in Cheng Ho’s time. To sail the seas some six centuries ago would have been quite an ordeal. Yet throughout this large wall history, Cheng Ho is depicted as a brutal leader who brought people together.

He escorted a Malaysian princess who was to marry a Sultan, therefore is seen as a conduit for friendly relations between China and Malaysia. He is also believed to have encouraged warm relations between Indonesia and China in his exploits to recover a Chinese Ambassador lost in the country.

This wall of history is nothing short of a hagiography, with Cheng Ho consistently emerging as a great and glorious figure. At times, his heroism is exaggerated, which underlines the way in which different people approach history and historical figures with more or less questionable agendas, hopes and expectations. The underlying message that comes through from this wall is about bringing people together and promoting understanding, which isn’t a bad thing.

The cave that lies behind these walls is a dark and somewhat scary looking place protected by large red and golden doors, with swirling dragons carved above these doors. Elsewhere, red and gold are the dominant colors and bulbous Chinese lanterns sway in the breeze bearing the names, on tags, of the people who donated them.

Coiled incense sticks hang from rafters, again all colored red, and large brass pots stand at various points across the complex where the faithful come to say their prayers, make their offerings and place burning incense sticks in the sand within the pots. Huge candles are also dotted around the complex, blazing away with 4-, 5- and even 6-feet tall wicks.

Elsewhere stands a statue of a proud-looking Cheng Ho, his presence lingering over this entire complex, together with a sense of harmony and peace. The messages inscribed one the wall are clear enough. Bringing people together in peace and understanding is central to what is happening at Gedung Batu.

While history here may be told in a rather selective and distinctly prioritized manner, the messages from Gedung Batu, or Sam Poo Kong, are good messages for the nation and indeed the world today.

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