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Plague memorials, cathedrals and castles

Gothic setting: The impressive St

Linda Hollands (The Jakarta Post)
Olomouc, Czech Republic
Fri, December 6, 2013

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Plague memorials, cathedrals and castles

Gothic setting: The impressive St. Wenceslas Cathedral and its tall towers is an integral part of the city'€™s skyline.

Setting out for a late-night stroll after hours of driving, we gasped in awe as we turned the corner into Olomouc'€™s upper town square, for there in front of us was the ornate Holy Trinity Column. Lit up at night, the structure was a sight to behold.

Every city in the Czech Republic seems to have a Marian Column to commemorate the end of the great plague and although Olomouc already had a Marian Column, it was felt that it was not grand enough and so the Holy Trinity Column was built. Constructed from 1716 to 1754, at 35 meters tall and 17 meters wide, the column is the largest free-standing Baroque structure in central Europe.

Over three levels, the column has statues and reliefs depicting 30 saints and apostles and the virtues of hope, faith and charity. Above them are representations of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and the Holy Trinity. Its base houses a chapel. In 2000, it was declared a UNESCO world heritage site.

Just across from the column is the Town Hall complete with an astronomical clock, one of only two in the Czech Republic, with the other being in Prague.

The Town Hall dates back to the 14th century and has four stories. Its tower is open to the public twice a day, although most people are either unaware of this or have no interest in climbing to the top.

Trudging up the stairs is not for the faint hearted, and by the time we reached the top at 75 meters, passing the watchman'€™s chambers along the way, we were almost out of breath.

But the view was well worth the effort, especially since we were the only two there besides the guide. Directly below was the town square, while ahead in all directions the whole city stretched out before us, revealing just how many cathedrals and monasteries there were in the area, as well as various castles in the far distance.

Face of change: Olomouc'€™s Town Hall features an astronomical clock with marionettes that put on a quirky performance at midday.
Face of change: Olomouc'€™s Town Hall features an astronomical clock with marionettes that put on a quirky performance at midday.
Descending the tower, we explored the various vaulted rooms and the exhibit of the construction and restoration of the Town Hall, as well as checked out the mechanism of the astronomical clock.

The clock itself has undergone remodeling a few times over the years. It was severely damaged at the end of WWII and was renovated to take on the Socialist Realist style.

The outer ring of clock'€™s lower dial has 365 green and white stripes representing each day of the year. Each day has its own patron saint, with one name written on each of the green and white stripes. Some days are marked in red for old communist holidays.

The wall of the clock has scenes of the working class going about their day to mark the passing hours. The marionettes above the clock'€™s six dials put on a performance at noon every day.

The town square is dotted with various fountains, such as the Caesar, Hercules, Jupiter and Mercury fountains.

Nearby is St. Moritz, a nondescript church on the outside but a gem on the inside. Although the church is considered one of the country'€™s finest examples of Gothic architecture, the inside has been reconstructed in Baroque fashion. Entering the church, the cross vaulting of the three-naved interior is the first thing to catch the eye.

Of particular interest are the stained-glass windows, the main Gothic altar, the 15th century sculpture of Christ on the Mount of Olives and its pipe organ, which, with its more than 10,000 pipes, is one of the largest in the world. The organ is used only not during regular services but also for classical music recordings. The church also hosts the annual International Organ Festival Music organized by the Moravian Philharmonic.

Fairytale setting: Bouzouc Castle has watchtowers, drawbridges and maybe a dragon or two in its dungeon.
Fairytale setting: Bouzouc Castle has watchtowers, drawbridges and maybe a dragon or two in its dungeon.
Within walking distance of the square is the St. Wenceslas Cathedral, which is the seat of the Olomouc archbishop. Originally a Romanesque basilica, it was consecrated in 1131. After a fire in 1204 and many makeovers, it was reconstructed in the neo-Gothic style in 1883-1888. Its interior is just as impressive as its exterior.

Just one hour by car from Olomouc is Bouzouc Castle. Perched on a hilltop overlooking a valley, the 14th century castle has a fairytale appearance and has been used as the location for a number of movies. Its many halls contain various items belonging to its old masters, most noticeably the Order of the Teutonic Knights.

Originally functioning as a fort to protect the trade route between Olomouc and Bohemia, its battlements, bastions, oriel windows, gargoyles, watchtowers and drawbridges gives it a decidedly medieval atmosphere. Its dry moat was once used to breed bears.

These days it acts mainly as a tourist attraction and offers a number of tours, including one that introduces visitors to the secret world of dragons and dragon slayers.

Steeped in tradition and history, with its abundance of significant architectural monuments, it won'€™t be long before Olomouc becomes firmly planted on the tourist map.

'€” Photos By Linda Hollands

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