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Jakarta Post

Blessings up for grabs

Center stage: A tayub folk dancer performs for visitors at the tomb of Ki Ageng Balak in Mertan village, Bendosari, Sukoharjo, Central Java

Ganug Nugroho Adi (The Jakarta Post)
Surakarta, Central Java
Sat, December 7, 2013

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Blessings up for grabs

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span class="inline inline-none">Center stage: A tayub folk dancer performs for visitors at the tomb of Ki Ageng Balak in Mertan village, Bendosari, Sukoharjo, Central Java.

Hundreds of people from various cities in Java and other regions were packed into the tomb of Ki Ageng Balak in Mertan village, Bendosari, Sukoharjo, Central Java, on Sunday.

Some were gathered in the backyard of the complex. Others were watching the traditional woman'€™s folk dance tayub around the tomb gate, and a ritual procession, Pulung Langse, inside the building.

'€œToday is the last day of the month of Sura, entering Sapar [the second month of the Javanese calendar]. Most of the Javanese community believes that Sapar is a doom-laden month. Many rituals to ward off evil are being held, one of them is Pulung Langse,'€ said a tomb caretaker, Heri Purnomo.

Pulung Langse is marked by the replacement of the curtains covering the gravestone of Ki Ageng Balak. According to local folklore, Ki Ageng Balak, or Raden Sujono, was the founder of Mertan village. In his lifetime, he was thought to be the last descendant of Majapahit King Brawijaya. He was known for teaching virtue and sharing what he had with commoners.

The procession began with the opening of the curtains covering the grave by five tomb caretakers at around 6 a.m. local time. As soon as they walked out of the tomb, hundreds of people attending the ceremony followed the five in a parade leading to the Ranjing River near the cemetery.

Vanguard: Men carry offerings in the ritual procession Pulung Langse at the tomb of Ki Ageng Balak.
Vanguard: Men carry offerings in the ritual procession Pulung Langse at the tomb of Ki Ageng Balak.
Eight old curtain sheets each measuring 8 meters by 4 meters were washed and cut into thousands of bits before being sold to ritual participants in search of blessings for Rp 5,000 per piece.

In the next procession, new curtains were paraded in a Javanese traditional style, with a woman leading the way and several men clad in old-time Javanese soldiers'€™ uniforms striding behind her.

Two women carrying the new curtains followed the men in uniforms, accompanied by several others with incense and pilgrimage flowers. Four other men were shouldering mountain-shaped food offerings, comprising a rice cone with dishes, fruits, vegetables and traditional snacks.

The offerings were taken out of the tomb to be paraded round the complex twice. The hundreds of people lining the procession route, however, thronged to the rice cone after the marchers had only finished a single round.

Inevitably, the large crowd struggled to grab the offerings, not only the rice and other food but even the wooden bars used to carry the sacrifices. Those who failed to get their share had to collect remnants scattered on the ground for the sake of blessings.

The devout: Some visitors wait in the tomb complex for days before the ritual begins.
The devout: Some visitors wait in the tomb complex for days before the ritual begins.

Mountain of wealth: The offerings enter the tomb complex while hundreds of visitors follow.
Mountain of wealth: The offerings enter the tomb complex while hundreds of visitors follow.

Snagging blessings: Pilgrims jostle to snatch the offerings, which consist of fruits, vegetables and snacks.
Snagging blessings: Pilgrims jostle to snatch the offerings, which consist of fruits, vegetables and snacks.

New dress: Wearing traditional Javanese dress, a young woman brings new curtains for the tomb of Ki Ageng Balak.
New dress: Wearing traditional Javanese dress, a young woman brings new curtains for the tomb of Ki Ageng Balak.

Scent of women: Flower petals and incense are parts of the offerings.
Scent of women: Flower petals and incense are parts of the offerings.

Photos by JP/Ganug Nugroho Adi

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