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Jakarta Post

Retracing the paths of national heroes in West Sumatra

Koto GadangDuring holiday seasons, the city will be crowded with visitors, both local and foreign, who want to see its iconic tourist attractions — from the Jam Gadang clock tower to the Sianok canyon

Donny Syofyan (The Jakarta Post)
Padang
Wed, January 22, 2014

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Retracing the paths of national heroes in West Sumatra

Koto Gadang

During holiday seasons, the city will be crowded with visitors, both local and foreign, who want to see its iconic tourist attractions '€” from the Jam Gadang clock tower to the Sianok canyon.

There is more to Bukittinggi, and neighboring Agam regency, however. They are also known as the birthplaces of many of the nation'€™s founding fathers and heroes, from the country'€™s first vice president, Mohammad Hatta; first prime minister Sutan Sjahrir; former foreign minister Agus Salim; first woman journalist and an activist for women'€™s rights Rohana Kudus; to prominent writer Abdul Malik Karim Amrullah, popularly known as Hamka.

Hatta'€™s birthplace is a modest home in the city. The two-story wooden house at the side of a road is both pretty and simple.

Entering the house, visitors will see the living room, dining room and two rooms belonging to Hatta'€™s uncle. Though the house belonged to Hatta'€™s parents, his uncle had two rooms in the house. Traditionally, it made sense since older Minangnese were accustomed to sharing residences owing to their extended family-based community.

Many items in the room such as flower vases, dining table and kitchenware are original. It was the place where Hatta welcomed his guests.

Assorted pictures of Hatta and his family hang on the walls. Many documents belonging to or written by Hatta are available as well.

Stepping through the family gathering space in the middle of the house, visitors will find a spacious room with a queen sized-bed, a dressing table and woven bamboo panels. This is the room where Hatta was born.

Hatta spent 11 years of his youth in the house. Visitors can see his private room, where there is the old bicycle he often rode.

The grand old man: The birthplace of Agus Salim in Koto Gadang has not yet been made into a museum but the well-maintained place is open to the public.
The grand old man: The birthplace of Agus Salim in Koto Gadang has not yet been made into a museum but the well-maintained place is open to the public.
Hatta'€™s birthplace is located not far from the Jam Gadang clock tower. It opens daily from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. The entrance fee is voluntary.

Not far from the town you can also visit the popular tourist attraction Lake Maninjau, which is located 36 kilometers west of Bukittinggi.

Apart from its lovely scenery, many are lured to visit the nearby Hamka Museum.

Hamka, who was an ulema and politician, was born in Maninjau, West Sumatra on Feb. 17, 1908.

His works have been adapted for the screen, including Tenggelamnya Kapal Van der Wijck (The Sinking of the Van der Wijck), an adaptation of his famous novel of the same title telling of a powerful but tragic love story.

The Hamka Museum is the house of his birth. The house has been renovated into a rumah gadang (Minang traditional house).

Hamka'€™s house is easily accessible to visitors with parking at the front. There is a beautiful bathroom and prayer room beside the museum.

Anybody wishing to read Hamka'€™s works can purchase them in a small store across from the museum, including collections of Panjimas magazine, the most prominent Islamic magazine in post-independence Indonesia until its closure in 2003.

In one corner of the museum, guests may see Hamka'€™s picture, old chairs, walking stick and an antique lamp. Unfortunately, no clear explanation is given for items on display. The museum frequently welcomes visitors from Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei Darussalam.

Inside Hatta'€™s home.
Inside Hatta'€™s home.
Hamka'€™s works exhibited in the museum include Di Bawah Lindungan Ka'€™bah (Under the Shade of Kaaba, 1936), Tenggelamnya Kapal Van Der Wijck, Di Dalam Lembah Kehidupan (In the Valley of Life, 1939), Merantau ke Deli (Migrating to Deli, 1940), Margaretta Gauthier (translation, 1940), Tuan Direktur (Mister Director, 1939), Dijemput Mamaknya (Picked up by Her Uncle, 1939) and Tashawwuf Modern (Modern Sufi, 1939).

The museum only sells 28 out of Hamka'€™s 118 books.

Another renowned birthplace of one the country'€™s founding fathers is Koto Gadang, located in Agam Regency.

This place has given birth to many of Indonesia'€™s great heroes, such as Salim, Syahrir and Rohana.

However, the houses of Salim and Syahrir are no longer well maintained.

Even the tenant occupying Salim'€™s former dwelling place no longer has a family relationship with the prominent leader. It is lamentable that the great name of the two founding fathers has not been matched by greater attention paid to their heritage.

But people still have the opportunity to visit Keradjinan Amai Setia school, which was established by Rohana in Koto Gadang.

Through this school, Rohana taught many girls arts and crafts (sewing, embroidery and crochet), literacy, arithmetic, science and religion. Through the school, she opened up opportunities for women to get education and work without having to be subject to discrimination.

Though the school was set up on Feb. 11, 1911, it remains well-preserved and receives many visitors.

Photos by Syofiardi Bachyul Jb.

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