It may be found in far corner of the country’s eastern region, but Raja Ampat in Papua is like a rough diamond waiting for attention.

Raja Ampat – which literally means “four kings” and consists of four big islands: Waigeo, Batanta, Salawati and Misool, and hundreds of smaller ones – covers an area of 4.5 million hectares, with coastlines that stretch for a total of 4,869 kilometers. Almost 80 percent of the territory is covered by water and only 35 of the larger islands are home to some 60,000 people.

According to the Nature Conservancy (TNC), Raja Ampat is home to around 75 percent of all known coral species, 1,470 reef fish and, still counting, eight types of whales and seven types of dolphins.

The mangrove forests boast uniquely soft corals that grow in various colors, while its beaches have become hatching grounds for the green turtle and the endangered hawksbill turtle.

However, the wealth of Raja Ampat’s sea has been jeopardized due to overfishing and destructive fishing.

Purwanto, Bird’s Head marine protected area technical advisor from TNC, said marine over-exploitation reached Papua while demand for fresh seafood increased worldwide.

He said in the 1970s overfishing and destructive fishing practices were overwhelming the waters of western Indonesia and as the resources were depleted fishermen slowly moved to the eastern part of the country.

One of the women in Kapatcol hamlet in Misool shows her harvest. (Courtesy of The Nature Conservancy, Nugroho Arif Prabowo)
“And in the 1990s marine exploitation finally reached Papua,” Purwanto said.

Luckily, he said, before the exploitation got worse a joint conservation effort had been set up by the local administration, local communities and environmental organizations to protect 4.5 million hectares in the Raja Ampat zone.

In 2006 a network of Raja Ampat marine protected areas (MPAs) was established, covering seven areas with a total of 1 million hectares of coastal area and sea.

The areas are Ayau, the Dampier Strait, Kawe and Mayalibit Bay, which are facilitated by Conservation International (CI), and Southeast Misool and Kofiau which are supervised by TNC, while the Raja Ampat Marine Wildlife Sanctuary that is located off southwest Waigeo is managed by the Indonesian government’s Coral Reef Rehabilitation and Management Program (COREMAP).

Those areas have implemented a zonal system that regulates which spots can be used for fishing and which ones are completely closed to all activities but scientific purposes.

“Through the zonal system we set aside 20 to 30 percent of critical habitat to be protected and that can guarantee the sustainability of fisheries throughout Raja Ampat,” Purwanto said.

Moreover, in 2010 the Raja Ampat administration declared its area as a shark and manta ray sanctuary, banning all activities that harm sharks, manta rays, dugong and turtles. Two years later a bylaw was issued to ban shark fishing, making Raja Ampat the first administration in Indonesia that has a firm regulation to protect sharks.

“We’re so lucky because the natural resources here are still abundant and conservation efforts had been made before the exploitation got worse,” Purwanto said.

“In addition, thanks to Raja Ampat’s location and its coral diversity and density, it is able to replenish itself quite fast after natural threats.”

But conservation efforts have actually been taking place for decades by the local people. When they observe sasi -- traditional conservation practices that have been passed down for generations -- they will close the area that is considered damaged and no one can enter it or do activities there until the condition has improved.

After a year or two, they usually open the sasi with traditional ceremonies. Through sasi, they also understand that conservation can lead to increased welfare as the economic yield from the harvest is better.

“We decided to observe female-only sasi in order to get additional income for ourselves and family,” Betsina Hay, the coordinator of female sasi group in Kapatcol village, Misool.

But the rich marine biodiversity will not last long unless local people also play a role in managing the MPAs, since NGOs will not be working around the islands forever.

TNC and CI recruited local people to work with them, training them with proper conservation skills. Some reach out to villagers to raise awareness to conserve the sea and educate children about conservation through fun learning and some take part in marine patrol squads, while others join the underwater monitoring team.

Purwanto said one good example of the effectiveness of local people’s involvement in conservancy can be seen on Jaam Island in Misool, where the population of sharks had recovered quite quickly.

“We can now see baby sharks swimming around Jaam Island -- something that was impossible to see two or three years ago when shark fishing around the area was still rampant,” he said.

“This shows that when we are committed to protect the environment, the recovery process itself can be fast,” Purwanto said.

A marine patrol post has also been built on Jaam. The deputy head of the patrol, Andi Darmawan, said that since the team -- comprised of local people who also cooperate with Raja Ampat marine police -- started its operation 2012, shark fishing and blast fishing practices by fishermen who mostly came from nearby Buton and Seram Islands could be stopped.

“We regularly monitor various spots in Misool and constantly change our patrol routes so naughty fishermen will not be able to detect our presence,” Andi said.

Another achievement was when the patrol team in Kofiau last year caught six fishermen from Buaya Island in Sorong who used explosives to catch fish. They were brought to court and sentenced to 18 months imprisonment each.

“The perpetrators usually come from the same group. It’s sometimes very hard to catch them and we often get left behind during a chase,” Valen Ambarau, Kofiau patrol team member, said.

Lukas Rumetna, the Bird’s Head portfolio manager of TNC, said that after years of building the skills and commitment of local people, they had been ready to continue the conservation efforts on their own.

“Most of them have understood their role in managing the MPAs. Some tasks may still need our assistance, but overall they have all been equipped with the know-how,” he said.

“And as we’re leaving soon, local people will then work together with the technical control unit from the local administration that will replace our work here.”

Coral reefs at Triton Bay in West Papua. (Courtesy of The Nature Conservancy, Jeff Yonover)<)