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Weekly 5: Icons of a city
JP/DONJakartans, itâs fair to say, have a love-hate relationship with the capital
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JP/DON
Jakartans, it's fair to say, have a love-hate relationship with the capital. Despite the chronic housing shortage, annual floods and horrific congestion, residents are very fond of the varied icons that represent Jakarta's culture and history. Here we look at a few such objects of affection:
"Ondel-ondel"
These giant Betawi effigies dance in pairs, swaying their bodies and waving their arms in time to traditional music.
According to Betawi Culture Council head Yahya Andi Saputra, ondel means 'move' in the Betawi idiom. Ondel-ondel, he says, come in pairs because they symbolize life balance and survival.
'Ondel-ondel used to have scary faces with big eyes and sharp teeth back when they first appeared,' he said, adding that in the past, they were used by Jakartans to avert poor harvests and disease.
With an eye on tourist numbers, then governor Ali Sadikin ordered a makeover for ondel-ondel in the 1970s. Nowadays, they make appearances at occasions from weddings and anniversaries to circumcisions, while smaller versions giving street performances are a common sight in the capital.
Welcome statue
The Tugu Selamat Datang (Welcome Statue) at the Hotel Indonesia traffic circle in Central Jakarta was built in 1959 to welcome the participants of the fourth Asian Games in 1962.
The 7-meter bronze monument was dreamt up by then deputy Jakarta governor Henk Ngantung, sculpted by artist Edhi Sunarso and unveiled by Sukarno.
Today's capital dwellers are more familiar with the traffic circle than the statue, the area a popular hub for activities ranging from demonstrations to promotional campaigns.
Monas
Built in 1961 by then president Sukarno, the National Monument (Monas) was intended as a symbol of the nation's strength, and lies in a broad park in the center of Jakarta.
'In the 1970s, under Ali Sadikin, the compound was used as a public interaction area. Young people and families would congregate to watch public concerts,' said Yahya, who was born in 1961.
Over time, successive Jakarta governors have imposed various restrictions on the 82-hectare park.
In 2002, then governor Sutiyoso built a fence around Monas as part of his beautification project, a policy fiercely opposed by urban planners and activists. In 2007, his successor Fauzi Bowo banned horse carriages from entering the compound. This year, meanwhile, current Governor Basuki 'Ahok' Tjahaja Purnama has cracked down on illegal street vendors operating in the park.
Menteng
The upscale Menteng district was designed as a leafy and verdant residential area in 1913.
It acquired its name from the menteng fruit that grew in the area in the 17th century. The neighborhood's design includes parks, with the largest, Taman Suropati, at its center.
A number of houses have been converted, but many retain their original facades thanks to Menteng's status as a historical preservation area. Today, the area is home to a host of high-profile public figures, but many original residents, unable to meet the high property taxes, have sold or lease their houses.
'Kerak Telor'
Ask a Jakartan about Betawi cuisine and she'll instantly mention kerak telor, a dish made of rice, serundeng (seasoned grated coconut), fried onions and chicken or duck eggs.
'In the past, the dish was popular among the Dutch in the city because they had servants to cook it for them. The lower classes, however, would only eat it on special occasions,' Yahya said.
Today, the dish is sold at city events, and can be found at tourist sites.
