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Eight things to know about saké

If you are new to saké and want to enjoy it, the following information, compiled from various sources, will be useful:First: Saké is made from rice, rice mold called koji in Japanese, also known as Aspergillus oryzae in Latin, and water

Arif Suryobuwono (The Jakarta Post)
Fri, July 10, 2015

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Eight things to know about saké

If you are new to saké and want to enjoy it, the following information, compiled from various sources, will be useful:

First: Saké is made from rice, rice mold called koji in Japanese, also known as Aspergillus oryzae in Latin, and water. Its alcohol content varies.

Second:
Rice suitable for saké has grains with a high starch component in its kernels. Saké-making requires the removal of the outer layers of rice rich in nutrients (protein, minerals and fat) that make rice tasty through milling. The variety of rice known as the best saké rice is Yamadanishiki.

Unlike rice produced for eating, which is milled to 90 percent of its original weight, which means that the outer 10 percent of the grain is removed, saké rice is typically milled or polished to 60 percent or 50 percent of its original weight, to which alcohol may be added.

Saké brewed using rice polished to 60 percent is called ginjo and that using rice polished to 50 percent or lower is called daiginjo, if alcohol is added, or junmai ginjo and junmai daiginjo, respectively, if no alcohol is added. Junmai daiginjo is the most expensive top-quality saké.

Saké that is normally prized by the Japanese is clear in appearance, clean, delicate and smooth in flavor and texture with fragrant (fruity or floral) aromas. However, sweet aromas do not necessarily equate to a sweet taste as they may also come from dry saké.

Third: Saké made from highly polished rice can be chilled or served at room temperature but should not be warmed because heat damages the aroma. Saké made from less polished rice, on the other hand, can be chilled or warmed without any problems.

Fourth:
The best water for making saké is spring water although water from an artesian well can also be used. If soft water (nansui) is used, like that of Niigata Prefecture, the resulting saké will also be soft, cleaner and semi-sweet (also referred to as being feminine). If hard water (kosui) is used, the resulting saké will be drier, firmer and rougher (masculine).

Fifth:
Saké is normally pasteurized twice. The first takes place during fermentation, the second shortly before bottling. Saké that is not pasteurized before bottling is fresher and called draft saké as in draft beer. Sparkling saké is made by injecting carbon dioxide prior to bottling. Thus, the second pasteurization is not needed because micro-organisms cannot grow in carbonated water.

Sixth: Saké can, of course, be treated like wine and subjected to detective-like sighting, sniffing, swirling and slurping in order to find out its true identity, which might be of interest to wine sommeliers wishing to be saké sommeliers as well.

But that is not the way saké is enjoyed traditionally in its country of origin. Just sip your saké, exhale appreciatively and notice what happens. As it enters the mouth, it releases vapors that travel up through the retro nasal canal past the nasal passages until they reach the olfactory bulb where they are translated as flavors or taste by the brain. Scientifically called ortho-nasal olfaction and retro-nasal olfaction, these are normal processes we all experience when consuming food and beverages.

Seventh: Unlike wine, for which different, specially designed, glasses exist for the different grape varieties from which the wine is made, there is no definite rule as to what cup or container is the most suitable for what type of saké. You can pour saké into any cup or container of any shape made from any material and into any wine glass as well and may or may not notice changes in the saké'€™s taste or fragrance.

Eighth: Since saké is a delicate alcoholic beverage that is sensitive to heat and light, it should be stored in a cool, dark place. Refrigeration is recommended.

Exposing saké to sunlight can change its taste and color. Exposure to air can reduce the quality and taste of saké over time. This means that once you have opened a bottle, it'€™s best to finish it fairly soon, especially if it is unpasteurized saké. If it is pasteurized saké, it may last a month or so in the refrigerator after the bottle is opened. The date stated on the label of a saké bottle is the bottling date.

Unlike wine, saké has no vintage and is not aged like wine. Nowadays some saké are aged but the aging process normally takes place inside the manufacturer'€™s tank, not in the bottle like wine.

Once bottled, saké does not have a long shelf life but there is no definite answer as to how long it stands up to time in bottles. Consumed within a year of the bottling date is usually recommended. So, pick up the one you like and celebrate transiency by consuming it while still in its prime. Kanpai ! Let'€™s dry the cup!


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