Prominent designer Biyan translates his hopes, dreams and memories into his latest creations

One fine recent evening with a dramatic ambiance, designer Biyan presented 100 looks from his spring/summer 2016 women'€™s wear collection for his main brand, BIYAN.

Unlike most spring/summer collections that are usually rich in bright colors, he chose soothing and romantic colors for the season, which carries '€œdream'€ as its main theme.

'€œIt'€™s about my own dreams. I believe every single person has memories, dreams and daydreams, so why don'€™t I make a collection about that,'€ the designer said.

'€œIt is a simple collection containing collective images that I got from my dreams.'€

With the image of a big tree as the background of his runway at the Dharmawangsa hotel Jakarta, Biyan in showed off a series of looks from his collection, which breathes romanticism within soothing soft colors.

He offers comfortable silhouettes with volume that allow wearers to move freely.

'€œThe collection is dedicated to women who are looking to mix-and-match easy-to-wear functional outfits for themselves, allowing them to metamorphose for any occasion.'€

The collection comprises A-line skirts, palazzo pants, culottes, coats, jackets, loose blouses and romantic long dresses that look as if they were taken out of a fairy tale.

Biyan uses a wide range of fabrics, from glittered tulle, printed silk organza and silk georgette to linen, taffeta and denim to create structures within neutral and muted colors, including white, beige, ivory, grey, blush, celadon, tile blue and powder blue.

When it comes to detail, the designer was inspired by embellishments in kebaya blouses, old children, storybooks and classic motifs in tiles, which are often seen in old buildings and churches '€” all wrapped up beautifully like perfect flashback stories.

As a high-end collection, each of BIYAN'€™s items were made with high-standardized workmanship.

Lattice embroidery, for example, was carefully made to meet a texture close to lace. Eyelet details are also seen in easy shift dresses, while heavy cord macramé meets geometric motif are seen in jackets with folkloric twist.

Graphical sense within big-sized monochromatic embroidery that is mixed with chunky embellishment is another interesting detail. Unusual floral prints, with the layering of geometric dainty flowers in tile form, also capture the eye.

From the runway, a loose flowery top, for example, is mixed with a white pair of culottes.

A pretty cream lace top meets simple white pants; a classic short-sleeved flowery dress and a sweet layering grey long dress are among Biyan'€™s beautiful works.

Biyan spent years studying fashion overseas before returning to Indonesia and starting his own lines. In between 1977 and 1979, for instance, Biyan took a fashion technical course at the Muller & Sohn Privatmodeschule in Duesseldorf, Germany. In 1983, he graduated from The London College of Fashion.

He has established several lines over the years '€“ Biyan in 1984, Studio 133 Biyan in 1985, (X).S.M.L in 1999 and Biyan Bride in 2004.

Biyan said he was inspired by Indonesian women who were well educated, beautiful on the inside and out, knowledgeable about the world but maintained local values.

'€œSometimes people are embarrassed to acknowledge their traditional values, while in fact such things are what differentiate them from people of other countries,'€ said Biyan.

Talking about his sketches, Biyan said he was inspired by women'€™s sensitive, delicate and fragile yet strong nature.

'€œClever and smart in making decisions, but still having their true identities '€” these are the values in women that I adore,'€ he said.

'€” Photos courtesy of Biyan

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