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Jakarta Post

At Your Leisure: The Leaf Connoisseur

PHOTOS VIA LEAF CONNOISSEURFriends know that asking me to have a cup of coffee is like getting a child to eat their broccoli

Kevindra P. Soemantri (The Jakarta Post)
Sat, July 16, 2016 Published on Jul. 16, 2016 Published on 2016-07-16T14:27:52+07:00

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At Your Leisure: The Leaf Connoisseur

PHOTOS VIA LEAF CONNOISSEUR

Friends know that asking me to have a cup of coffee is like getting a child to eat their broccoli. I’m not a coffee achiever. I’m a tea person.

I love to savor the crystal clear and soothing sensation of a sip from a cup of tea, to distinguish the thin line between infused flavors, to experience how artisanally infused tea works to energize a person or to put one into a state of calmness.

At the Leaf Connoisseur by Tea-Et-Al, on the first floor of Galeries Lafayette at Pacific Place in the SCBD, Jakarta has granted my wish for an artisanal tea parlor.

Leaf Connoisseur by Tea-Et-Al is the brainchild of Audilya Gunarto, a second-generation tea plantation owner.

As you enter the parlor, elegance is evident. You are welcomed by the beautifully arranged Tea-Et-Al collections of different artisanal teas on display.

According to Audi, the idea behind Tea Connoisseur is to give patrons a comprehensive experience of drinking tea while enjoying simple foods created by the chef.

Graced with cerulean-colored chairs and hexagonally patterned tiles, Leaf Connoisseur offers afternoon tea with a view of the Sudirman Central Business District.

Carried by the servers were an array of homemade patisseries inside a tiered golden case–a sumptuous square of green tea and mango mousse cake, a decadent classic Italian tiramisu, flaky and creamy mushroom vol-au-vent, and a mini-bite of sweet bread and butter pudding.

My personal favorite tea sampled that day was London Eye.

The flavors of kiwi, pear and pineapple were beautifully and delicately manifested in every sip. It was a delectable, lush cup with soothingly sweet fruity undertones, malty notes and a delightful finish.

For the food itself, Leaf Connoisseur dares to serve not just easily consumed light meals, but also bolder dishes, such as Indonesian cabe hijau (green chili) and steak.

When I was there, I dedicated my stomach to an appetizer of Asian beef salad and a main course of barramundi with polenta.

I chose the salad as something fresh to start the meal that would not too fiercely kill my fruity London Eye tea.

The salad took inspiration from Thai beef salad, with pinkish tender beef tenderloin nestled on a bed of shredded lettuce, alfalfa sprouts and a drizzle of sweet and spicy Thai dressing. A nice intermezzo of a mini-cream cheese quiche neutralized the sweet after taste of the sauce.

I continued to sip on my London Eye as I if were the Prince of Wales on break, overlooking the scenic view from Windsor Castle,. My view, however, was simply the concrete jungle.

According to Audi, most of Leaf Connoisseur’s patrons are expatriates.

Notions of drinking tea in Indonesia are still based on the concept of sweetened jasmine tea; while Chinese, Japanese, and Western people have long embraced drinking tea as a ritual of tranquility, where the infusion of natural and herbal flavors is considered a form of art.

The differences between the local and foreign enjoyment of tea have been with us since the 19th century, when the nation’s Dutch colonial occupiers established plantations across our plateaus and highlands.

At that time, the Javanese began their habit of drinking tea in the morning, although their beverages came from second-rate leaves. Premium tea leaves were controlled by the Dutch and exported.

Today, most Indonesians continue to drink second, or even worse, lower-class black tea in loose-leaf form, like their predecessors–or in tea bags. Top-quality local tea is exported as before and the leftovers continue to be relegated to the mass market.

What Leaf Connoisseur is doing is cultivating a way of savoring tea, so it might be enjoyed–or even paired–with culinary creations, like my dish of herb-crusted white fish, a smear of polenta and spring vegetables.

It was perfect when paired with Tea-Et-Al’s herbal Aurora tea. Tisane blended with fragrant alfalfa leaves, cooling peppermint, organic elderflower and sun-golden chamomile blossoms that softly unfolded with each refreshing, restorative sip. A relaxing sensation awaits in every sip of this soothing herbal blend.

If you are looking for quality time with your colleagues, the Leaf Connoisseur’s package of tiered pastries or even desserts would be nice.

There is something special at this place, where the kitchen team will do pairings between food and tea–something commonly found for wine and even for coffee, recently.

Tea-Et-Al has stores at Pacific Place, Plaza Senayan, Plaza Indonesia and Grand Indonesia. Leaf Connoisseur has finally opened as the flagship store of the brand, a place where the experience of drinking tea is paramount.

LEAF CONNOISSEUR
Galeries Lafayette, Level 1
Pacific Place, South Jakarta
Hours: 10 a.m. –8 p.m.
Phone: 02157973422

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