SWING OF THINGS: A man holds his weapon of a pandanus plant, with its jagged thorns able to draw blood
Words & Photos Agung Parameswara
The Tenganan people are considered among the ancient Bali Aga people, and they continue to practice the traditions and rituals of their forefathers in the village of Tenganan Pengringsingan, Karangasem.
These include the month-long festival Usaba Sambah, held to demonstrate devotion to Indra, the Hindu God of war, over two days in June. One of the rituals is the Mekare Kare, or the “Pandanus War”, in which village men and youths, dressed in traditional attire, pair off in duels using weapons of thorny pandanus leaves and rattan shields.
The shedding of blood during the duels conforms to the Tenganese belief that they must make this ultimate sacrifice to Indra. Their participation also shows their dedication to the community, or “Ngayah”.
Held this year on June 24-25, the battle took place for three hours in the afternoon, with each bout lasting from several seconds to one minute in duration. Against the vigorous playing of the gamelan, and before the audience of young women from the village, the men fought until blood was drawn. Their wounds were treated with an herbal potion including ingredients of turmeric, galangal, vinegar and coconut oil.
There is no win or lose, and no hurt feelings among the men. Courage is the only requirement for participants.
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