Iwan Tirta batik continues to mesmerize.

If Javanese batik is generally divided into two categories based on which part of the island it comes from, the earth-toned colors using mainly symbols as motifs, batik kraton, comes from the inland regions. Batik pesisir is easily identified by its lively colors, which motifs are heavily influenced by Chinese, Middle Eastern and European cultures. Then there is another kind of batik altogether, fondly called Iwan Tirta batik.

The artisan has become a household name for the country’s A-listers and world leaders who visited Indonesia before his passing in 2010. The label continues to impress today with its quality and motifs that combine his vast knowledge on the philosophy of batik, techniques and motifs with fashion sensibility.

Iwan Tirta Private Collection, the fashion house that inherited the maestro’s works, put forth a modern re-interpretation of Iwan Tirta batik in a runway collection show in the ballroom of Fairmont Hotel in Senayan, Central Jakarta, on Wednesday.

With actor Reza Rahadian and actress Adinia Wirasti as the muses for the collection titled “Condrosengkolo,” designer Era Soekamto took over two-and-a-half years to finish.

She used the time partly to research Iwan Tirta’s 13,000 motifs and hundreds of techniques in batik making before applying a technique using salt in the cloth dying process to bring out new, unexpected colors and to give color gradation in between motifs. It would also be the first time for the fashion house to use hand-woven silk and organza as material.

The result is a fresh take on Iwan Tirta’s memorable creations, while still holding on to the characteristic style of Iwan Tirta batik.

The vast collection of 77 pieces of male and female ready-to-wear — with a nod to Balenciaga and Dior — was presented in four sequences throughout the show.

The runway and lighting design exuded an eerie atmosphere as the show was opened by a male singer singing the Javanese song “Pangkur Gedong Kuning,” which lyrics are actually a prayer for harmony in life written by Sunan Kalijaga, one of the nine patrons of Javanese Islam. A Javanese dance, Bedhaya Matah Ati, choreographed by Atilah Soeryadjaya followed the singing. The seven female dancers wore costumes and accessories created by Iwan Tirta for Atilah’s Matah Ati theatrical dance performance.

An artistic video depicting constellations flashed on the stage backdrop, which slowly parted and became an entrance for the models.

The first sequence called Akasa was dominated by blue designs with modern silhouettes. For this part of the collection, Era used motifs that looked like star constellations along with floral motifs and animal motifs, such as elephants, turtles, snakes and birds.

Dahana-Tirta came next, which included blue and red to represent fire and water with grander motifs, including elephants and dragons.

Softer tones of cream for female outfits and black with a touch of gold in the jackets for male outfits defined the Bawono collection, representing earth.

Last to appear was the Maruta collection that brought rarely seen colors in batik, such as purple, turquoise and maroon, which were well assembled with the motifs of a peacock.

The title Condrosengkolo itself is taken from the Javanese traditional calendar system, which is used to manage time for farming or harvesting as to keep a harmonious balance with the universe.

This philosophy of harmony, according to Era, was also manifested in Iwan Tirta’s batik motifs, who believed batik motifs were built by a series of codes or symbols that hid a mystery.

“Condrosengkolo is about math, so I’m really focused on design pattern specifics, so that there is an intriguing cut in every piece of the collection to ensure an edgy look while keeping the harmony between the motif and the design itself,” said Era.

— Photos by JP/Jerry Adiguna

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