Going black: Designer Oscar Lawalata exploits the universality of black in his latest collection.

Black is a color that transcends time and trends.

Indonesian designer Oscar Lawalata certainly seems to favor black.

His new collection, “O”, was officially launched with a fashion show and exhibition at the headquarters of the fashion line, O Space, in South Jakarta.

The line continues Oscar’s ambition of creating wearable high fashion that is as practical as it is artistic.

Unlike his previous lines, such as the Katun Katunku collection, which is renowned for its vibrant color blocks, the O line is minimalist. Inspiration is taken from the simple, but ubiquitous, black T-shirt.

“With O, everything is about black and we create ready-to-wear fashion in an artisanal way,” Oscar told The Jakarta Post after the show.

Though all the pieces were black, the drama of them was not lost in the simplicity. The contrast of different fabric textures and unique stitching individualized each piece.

A black cotton tank top was given embroidered trim and tassels, and another was embellished with a cut-out floral design.

Most of the pieces had a loose and somewhat androgynous silhouette; smock-like tops paired with loose flared pants or ripped jeans with black pullovers. Even the dresses had a somewhat genderless appeal to them.

One dress, short and fitted like a T-shirt, used different shades of black to make a concentric circle pattern on the bodice, which was contrasted with the checkerboard pattern on the bottom half. The dress is short enough to be matched with a pair of slacks for a more business-appropriate look, but would look equally elegant for an edgy evening-wear look.

“It’s totally modern artwork. But people can still wear it as daily wear,” explains Oscar.

He thinks black shirts are ubiquitous among creative circles. Think late Apple CEO, Steve Jobs, whose black turtleneck sweater became his trademark. The clean slate of the color allows for the creativity to stand out, Oscar says.

But the color isn’t just for creative types; it brings fashion back to everyday people — universalness that Oscar appreciates.

He thinks its neutrality gives space for the wearer to show the colors of their own personality.

“I believe everyone has a black shirt or black blouse or whatever, because black can make your personality stand out. Black is basically quite silent, but there’s mystery about that.”

The universality of black and the androgynous silhouettes add to the versatility of the designs and give them an international appeal.

Black fashion’s “clean slate” appeal and “silence” can also be used to send a message. At this year’s Golden Globe awards, actors donned black gowns on the red carpet in support of the #MeToo and #TimesUp campaigns aim to draw attention to the issue of sexual harassment and misogyny in Hollywood.

Since Oscar first found his feet in the world of Indonesian fashion, he’s taken inspiration from elements of traditional, cultural fashion. In 2016, Oscar had a showcase called “I Am Indonesian”, featuring pieces inspired by his heritage, and last year he tried his hand at traditional batik design, which he displayed in an exhibition in his gallery.

The traditional influence is a lot less obvious in this new line. The designs seem to borrow more of their silhouettes from a street fashion aesthetic, reminiscent of the streetwear in Tokyo or Seoul.

Oscar hopes that through these new, edgy designs and the appropriation of a universal aesthetic he can bring new life to the Indonesian fashion scene. He wants it to inspire Indonesian fashion enthusiasts to find their own style identity and to create something unique to them.

“I hope Indonesians can have a strong personality, and not copy Western designers and that Indonesians can find their own style.”

— The writer is an intern with the ACICIS program

— Photos by JP/Seto Wardhana

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