Don’t be deceived, however: The regency, also home to the famous small island of the same name that marks the nation’s “kilometer-zero” starting point, offers a visitor more than just beautiful beaches. There’s chances for diving, snorkeling and trekking that will make your stay memorable.

Local people say the island’s name is an acronym for the phrase “santai banget”, or very relaxed. I came to Sabang with five friends with the sole purpose of seeing how true this saying was. 

We took a ferry from Ulee Lheue jetty in Banda Aceh, the capital city of Aceh, departing at 9:45 a.m. We chose the fast boat, which costs Rp 100,000 a person for a VIP cabin or Rp 80,000 for a regular cabin, and crossed the strait in 45 minutes.

The other option is the regular ferry, which costs Rp 30,000 for regular class or Rp 60,000 for a VIP cabin and makes the same journey in 90 minutes. 

The fast boat was worth every rupiah. The ferry was nice and cozy and offered us a host of options to while away the time while underway, whether soaking in the sun on deck or chilling in an air-conditioned cabin with a television playing karaoke songs (even though no one picked up the microphone to sing).

Upon our arrival at Balohan jetty, we were greeted by Bang ( elder brother ) Fendi, a large man who accompanied us as we explored Sabang Island. 

As he reached out to greet us, I noticed his hands: All 10 fingers had rings with gemstones as large as US half-dollar coins.

Fendi, it turns out, was a member of GAM, the separatist movement that waged a decades-long insurgency against Indonesia. The struggle ended with the Helsinki peace talks in 2005, in the aftermath of the tsunami that devastated the province in 2004.

In peacetime, Fendi has dedicated his life to promoting tourism in Sabang, where he runs small homestay and rents cars to visitors. 

A day’s rental of a Toyota Avanza with a driver cost us Rp 750,000, gasoline included. We stopped for a quick photo at COT GT Balohan, a famous lookout point offering Instagrammable views of the bay at Balohan. 

We dropped our bags at the Anoi Itam guest house before exploring the island further.

Sumur Tiga Beach

Sumur Tiga means the Three Wells and indeed has an old well not so far from the beach. It offers three kilometers of untouched beaches and soft sands, all waiting to be explored.

Coconut trees line the beach. Some drooped so low so that we could hang our hammocks by them and lay down to enjoy the day.

Sumur Tiga Beach is just off the main road of Sabang Island. While it is free to enter, finding the entry point is a bit tricky. 

Ask a local resident and they will point to a small path among the coconut trees by a food stall as the entry point. Unfortunately, there is no clear signage at this point.

To get the most of the beach, we entered from a restaurant named Casa Nemo with direct access and a very good view of Sumur Tiga beach. 

Paying for several glasses of iced tea to get access from Casa Nemo was worth the price. We got to relax on their cool benches anyway.

Gapang Beach

Gapang Beach requires a further drive to the west. It’s a popular spot for visitors and locals alike.

In this case, there was a large, clearly marked sign advertising the entrance to Gapang Beach and we could drive right up.

Gapang is serene, surrounded by large sea almond ( ketapang ) trees, which offered pleasant, calming shadows during the hot afternoons.

Food stalls sold local delicacies and drinks were available within walking distance around this beach. Fresh coconut water sipped from the shell is the best choice, of course.

Unlike as in mainland Aceh–and especially as in Banda Aceh, where people, including visitors, are expected to dress in long pants or skirts and headscarves–in Sabang, people were more relaxed, especially on the beach.

We went to the beach wearing shorts and t-shirts and the local residents seem to be used to it. No one gave us any comments regarding our dress.

Zero Kilometer Landmark

There’s a famous Indonesian song titled “Dari Sabang Sampai Merauke”, which refers to the 5,243 kilometers from Sabang to Merauke, the nation’s westernmost and easternmost points.

Humming this song along the way, we drove to the westernmost corner of Sabang Island to see the zero-kilometer marker. It was a long, winding road that Fendi tackled with confidence. 

There was construction going on when we arrived. The marker is getting scaled up, making it higher and bigger. A concrete observation deck was also in the works, to offer more space for visitors to sit, relax and watch the ocean below.

Iboih Beach and Rubiah Island

Iboih is famous among divers for its beautiful underwater scenery. Although none of us were divers, we enjoyed the beach just as much. Fortunately, Fendi offered us another way to sneak a peek at the underwater life without even getting wet: A glass-bottomed boat. We jumped at the chance.

We rented a glass-bottomed boat at Iboih jetty and sailed to neighboring Rubiah Island. 

By the way, the boat’s bottom is not actually all glass. There’s a single transparent panel built into the deck, through which fish and other creatures could be seen swimming around. 

When we visited, it was the season when the red jellyfish were abundant. We could see them swimming in groups. Some were as large as a basketball. Boat rentals cost Rp 350,000 and are a bargain. 

What to eat

Sabang is famous for its mie jalak, a noodle dish served with spicy broth and shredded fish, cooked in soy sauce and served with bean sprouts and topped with a poached egg.

The dish was surprisingly light and spicy and the size of the portion was just right, fulfilling but not too much. 

Sabang also has a particular kind of rujak, assorted fruits in small slices served with hot and sour peanut sauce. 

Here they add a local fruit called rumbia, which comes from a kind of sago palm tree. The fruit has a skin that’s scaly and must be opened by stepping on it until it cracks. If we cut the fruit, a bitter juice will come out. The squashed juice, meanwhile, offers a nice compliment to the rujak sauce.

Another famous local delicacy is lamb curry, served from a restaurant located in front of a mosque at the city’s center. The place is open during lunch until late in the afternoon. Big chunks of lamb are cooked in a light curry and served with rice on a separate plate. It’s a hearty treat for meat lovers.

If you’re looking forward to chilling on some beautiful beaches and doing some water activities, Sabang is definitely not to be missed. 

If you go

The island is now served by aircraft from Kuala Namu International Airport in Medan, North Sumatra, from which regular connections to Jakarta or Singapore can easily be found.

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