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Jakarta Post

Kauman, home of ulemas

Tue, June 4, 2019   /   11:02 am
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    A billboard with a picture of Ahmad Dahlan on the west gate of Kauman. JP/Boy T. Harjanto

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    A resident walks home after performing ashar (afternoon) prayer at the mosque. JP/Boy T. Harjanto

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    A boy rides his bike after performing ashar (afternoon) prayer at the mosque. JP/Boy T. Harjanto

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    Children play in the neighborhood of Kauman. JP/Boy T. Harjanto

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    The gate to the Nyai (Mrs.) Ahmad Dahlan graveyard is located behind Kauman mosque. JP/Boy T. Harjanto

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    A poster of Ahmad Dahlan and Nyai Ahmad Dahlan on the east gate of Kauman. JP/Boy T. Harjanto

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    The Langgar Kidul (south prayer room) was built by Ahmad Dahlan. JP/Boy T. Harjanto

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    A teenage girl and an older man are busy with their mobile phones in front of Kauman mosque. JP/Boy T. Harjanto

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    A motorist enters the east gate of Kauman. JP/Boy T. Harjanto

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    A motorist turns off his vehicle engine and walks along the Kauman neighborhood. JP/Boy T. Harjanto

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    A banner asking for people to perform prayers. JP/Boy T. Harjanto

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    Foreign tourists stroll along in Kauman neighborhood. JP/Boy T. Harjanto

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    Residents come out of the south gate of Kauman. JP/Boy T. Harjanto

Narrow alleys are a visible part of the ulema’s old residential area. The Islamic architecture of the old buildings is influenced by the Middle East. The colors of the walls have faded away with time.

Boy T Harjanto

Kauman during the Mataram kingdom was a place for nine headmen tasked by the kingdom with managing religious affairs. For hundreds of years, this residential area has had a huge role in the Islamic movement

During the independence fight, in this kampong was established Muhammadiyah – now the second-largest Muslim organization in Indonesia. At that time, Ahmad Dahlan, a Muslim scholar, became the founder of the movement and he was concerned with the fact that many people believed in mystical things.

Ahmad Dahlan also set the qibla to the northwest, or heading toward Al Haram Mosque in Mecca, and got rid of people’s habit of having rituals to remember the deceased.

Kauman is entirely pedestrianized. There is a no-vehicle sign in front of the gate and the roads are designed to make it difficult for cars to enter. The policy is to keep the neighborhood quiet because there are lots of Islamic students studying the religion, as well as being a symbol of leaving behind one's social status by walking. [yan]