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Sukuh Temple A mystery yet to be unraveled
Compared to Borobudur or Prambanan, Java's famous Buddhism and Hindu icons, Candi Sukuh (Sukuh temple), discovered by Sir Thomas Raffles in 1815, is not that legendary, yet it deserves a visit due because of its antiquated and unique characteristics
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ompared to Borobudur or Prambanan, Java's famous Buddhism and Hindu icons, Candi Sukuh (Sukuh temple), discovered by Sir Thomas Raffles in 1815, is not that legendary, yet it deserves a visit due because of its antiquated and unique characteristics.
Located in Sukuh village, around 35 kilometers east of Surakarta, Central Java, the Javanese-Hindu temple is perched at around 910 meters above sea level on the western slopes of Mount Lawu.
Some archeologists have assumed the temple was constructed in the 15th century, probably at the end of the Majapahit Empire era (between 1293 and 1500 CE), as shown by one relief depicting a giant eating a human.
The relief, carved into the wall of the northern entrance, can be read as Gapura Buta Mangan Wong. It is an inscription representing the 1359 Saka year (on the Javanese calendar) or 1437 CE, which is believed to be the year of the temple's construction.
To get to the temple, one can simply head to Tawangmangu, a famous tourist destination on the slopes of Mt. Lawu. This is not hard to find thanks to bold road signs. Just be cautious of the precipitous ascent to the temple. You should make sure your vehicle is in good shape, because the road climbs a 45 degree incline!
Sukuh temple has three concentric terraces, connected by ascending alleys. The main temple is situated at the last terrace. Unlike Hindu or Buddhist temples which have square shrines, Candi Sukuh's main structure has trapezium shape, resembling those made by the Mayan civilization in Central America.
The uniqueness of Sukuh temple lies in its landscaping, oddly carved statues and reliefs. One assumption about its "unrefined" carvings suggested the temple was erected during the time of civil war between the Islam and Hindu communities.
During the war, Java's Hindu adherents fled to Bali, while others moved to Mount Lawu. This is apparently why Sukuh temple was erected hastily; statues and reliefs weren't carved elaborately. It is also thought the reliefs and statues' current positioning are not authentic because of their erratic arrangement.
"On the entrance to the main structure there was once a huge phallus figure *around 1.85 meters high* - now on display at the National Museum in Jakarta - adorned with four testicles just below the tip of the penis; reliefs of a kris (traditional dagger or sword, believed to have mystical powers) blade, the sun and moon; and an inscription indicating the date 1440," explained Slamet, a local guide explained.
Among the tales of the reliefs are Panji, Sudhamala, Garudeya, Sang Astika and Ramayana - narrating stories of liberation. Three tortoises with flattened shells, symbolizing the base of the world, Garuda (the phoenix), elephants, snakes and guards are among the statues at the temple. One striking feature of Sukuh is that many of its figures, both animal and human, are depicted with bold genitals, such as shown by a man holding his penis.
A relief of a lingam (phallus) and yoni (vulva) at the entrance clearly depicts sexuality, yet it cannot be considered pornography, since Sukuh Temple's reliefs and statues symbolize the birth of life and spiritual liberation. Local people believe this point is sacred too, offering flowers to this artifact. In fact, there is a myth that says this relief can test a girl's virginity. If a girl walks over the relief and the kain* she is wearing is torn apart, then she is no longer a virgin.
"It's really surprising to observe these figures and reliefs, with genitals clearly carved. This kind of statue is definitely not found at any other temples. It's intriguing indeed," remarked Rina, a university student from Semarang.
If Sukuh temple - a sacred place intended for purification rituals, fertility cults, ancestors and nature-spirit worshipping - impresses you, perhaps Cetho Temple, 4 km away will astound you too. Renting a horse is a nice way to get there, especially since the road gets steeper.
Indeed, the mountain air and rural atmosphere enveloping the site help preserve the mystery shrouding the temple.
* kain: A kind of traditional Javanese sarong usually made of batik cloth, worn by women. Nowadays kain-kebaya attire is only worn on special occasions.
