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Just a slice of mutton
Goats are certainly popular domesticated animals in Indonesia
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oats are certainly popular domesticated animals in Indonesia. They are widely consumed and these animals can easily be seen roaming the country’s villages or kept as livestock in backyards.
In a country with a majority Muslim population, goat meat or mutton is one of the most preferred meats and will easily get a halal tag. A testament to the assertion is the ubiquity of side walk eateries or warung kaki lima selling mutton dishes. Sate kambing, or skewered mutton, with its unmistakably strong aroma succulent texture is one of the most popular menus.
Sate kambing comes in different variations based on the parts of the animal served. The cuts that are used for sate kambing comes from the hind legs, considered a prime part. The variation of the dish served in Jakarta comes from mutton marinated in spices before being placed on a grill. It is served with steamed rice or rice cake in the form of lontong or ketupat.
The popularity of mutton has also given rise to numerous anecdotes and myths. Many consider mutton as being a potent aphrodisiac. “The meat gives off a warm sensation,” a friend said.
Well, in my opinion, it is a state of mind. If you think that mutton is an aphrodisiac, it will be. But that’s just my opinion! You don’t have to agree with me.
Mutton actually has the same qualities as other red meat and is considered to be more digestible depending on which cuts are consumed. Prime cuts include the legs, ribs, fillet and cutlets or chops.
As you may have already known, mutton is also one of the mainstays for religious festivities such as Idul Adha, the Muslim Day of Sacrifice, when it is served as kambing guling, or roasted goat.
In places with a significant population of Middle Eastern or Indian origin, mutton will certainly be cooked in special dishes. Aceh is famous for its superb mutton curry and mezubi. In Banten, the meat is made into the famous rabeg. In Jakarta, we have kari Tanah Abang. A variation of the curry can also be found in North Sumatra where it is known as kari kambing deli. Green beans, carrots with a topping of sliced leek and celery are added to the dish.
In some parts of East Java, broth for local soups known as Soto is made out of mutton stock. One such soup is soto Kertosono, originating in an East Java town known its people, who are of Middle Eastern origin. Ribs are used for this dish.
In Jakarta, probably the most famous mutton-based dish is sop kambing, regularly served during family reunions. Connoisseurs of this dish know that sop kambing Tanah Abang is the best of its kind.
One of the reasons why so many mutton-based dishes come from Tanah Abang is the fact that natives of the area are of Middle Eastern origin.
Back in the day, respected women of Middle Eastern origin from clans such as the Alatas or the Badjeneds taught locals to prepare the dish, and the skill was quickly transferred to people from other areas.
Goats from which mutton is derived have different breeds. Kambing kacang has a rather small body and weighs only about 30 kilograms. This breed has been in Java for a long time and is sometimes called kambing Jawa or Javanese goat. It has short horns and the male has short whiskers.
Another popular breed is kambing etawa, originating from India and often called kambing Benggala. It has a rather sturdy body and can weigh between 50 and 90 kilograms. Both male and female have horns and have hairy lower legs.
This goat is also bred for its milk. From Bali we have kambing gembrong, a breed that is widespread in the eastern part of the island. This breed is believed to have originated from Kashmir. Its body is larger than that of the kambing kacang but smaller than the kambing etawa. Other than for its meat, kambing gembrong is also farmed for its woolly hide.
In Indonesia, not all goats are bred for meat. Normally, only male goats are slaughtered for their meat.
Males will be slaughtered after eight months, as mutton lovers are keen on having tender meat on their table. Young males are usually castrated after one week of birth to accelerate their growth.
Picking quality mutton is a tricky business because each breed comes with different qualities. Good mutton usually has a fresh, red color with fine fibers. Fat from the meat comes off easily.
Some people, however, are not fond of mutton because of the smell. The trick is to not wash the mutton before cooking.
But if you can stomach the powerful smell, the following recipe will certainly help you appreciate the mutton-based specialty of Satai pentul kambing. Make a paste from 3 shallots, 2 cloves of garlic, 1 red chili, 2 candlenuts, a slice of galangal, 1/4 teaspoon of fried shrimp paste, 1/2 teaspoon of coriander powder, 3 lime leaves and 25 centimeters of lemon grass. Mix with 2 tablespoons of thick coconut milk and 250 grams of ground mutton. Season with 1 teaspoon of salt and 1/2 teaspoon of granulated sugar.
Divide into 6 pieces. Take a skewer and impale ground mutton on it. Grill over charcoal until brown while basting.
How to make the sauce: finely cut 200 grams of ambarella (when available) and 150 grams of pineapple. Add 2 red chilies, 2 green chilies, cinnamon 2 star anise, 2 tablespoons of granulated sugar and 1 teaspoon of salt. Pour in 50 milliliters of water and lower the heat, continue until the sauce thickens. Serve satay with the sauce. Serves 6.
