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tationed behind his cart, Abdurahman pours a ladle full of glutinous rice and water into a frying pan. He adds fried coconut flesh, shredded shrimps, fried onions and an egg, mixing it carefully.

Abdurahman is cooking a traditional Betawi pancake locally known as kerak telor. He sells his fare to visitors to the annual Jakarta Fair (PRJ)in Kemayoran, Central Jakarta.

An iconic food among the Betawi people, kerak telor is not the only traditional delicacy available at the event. An array of food is on offer, including toge goreng (fried bean sprouts), nasi ulam (rice mixed with vegetables and peanut sauce), laksa penganten (rice cakes served with chicken and eggs) and assorted cookies.

To accompany the snacks, beverages such as bir pletok (a drink made from cinnamon, ginger and lemon grass) and es cendol (an iced drink consisting of rice flour, brown sugar and jackfruit) are also available at prices ranging from Rp 5,000 (59 US cents) to Rp 25,000.

Those visiting the festival usually allocate some time to enjoying the traditional food. Edy, an American visitor, was no exception. Having lived here for 30 years, Edy said he visited the fair to buy clothes, handicrafts and savor the food.

“The last time I came to the festival, I bought traditional clothes from Kalimantan,” he said, adding that he had visited the Jakarta Fair 6 times.

The Grogol, West Jakarta, resident said the fair was interesting and the people were friendly. “I hope the Jakarta Fair will always be this good,” he said, toting a large plastic bag full of traditional snacks.

The annual fair is held as part of the anniversary celebrations of the city’s founding. For the city’s 484th anniversary this year, the fair runs from June 9 to July 10. Organizers say 2,600 companies were taking part in the festival in 1,300 indoor and outdoor booths.

Visitors pay Rp 15,000 each to enter the fair on weekdays and Rp 20,000 on weekends. The event organizer, PT Jakarta International (JI) Expo, provides a free shuttle bus from the National Monument Park (Monas) to the PRJ grounds.

However, critics claim the once all-inclusive Jakarta Fair had evolved into an event for mainly middle- and higher-income residents.

Abdurahman, who has participated at the PRJ since 1968, said the fair had more visitors than ever. But he was disappointed that the common people could not enjoy the fair. “The expensive ticket prices make people reluctant to come,” he said.

Aji Syahrir Natawilastra, who visited the fair with his wife, agreed. “This fair has becomes less pro-people,” he said. (aaa)