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View all search resultsDesigner Biyan Wanaatmadja translates his creative journey into brilliant designs, presented in a show simply themed âPostcardâ
span class="caption" style="width: 248px;">Designer Biyan Wanaatmadja translates his creative journey into brilliant designs, presented in a show simply themed 'Postcard'.Designer Biyan Wanaatmadja celebrates three decades in fashion in the way he knows best ' by cleverly summing up precious memories of his creative journey and translating them into brilliant designs.
Through a brilliant juxtaposition of masculine and feminine elements, sophisticated layering and the free-spirited play of prints and textures, he presented his women's wear Spring/Summer 2014 collection.
In elegant ambiance with four giant copper eagle statues as the show's backdrop, his designs spelled out youthful style and sophisticated interpretation of his much-celebrated romantic and feminine design aesthetics.
Simply themed 'Postcard', the lineup of dozens of models eloquently portrayed his creative journey of the past 30 years, summing up his precious memories of history, heritage, generation and energy and translating them into refined contemporary creations.
He says that 'Postcard' is also a celebration of the lives of Indonesian women, his greatest muses.
'When designing clothes, I always think of modern Indonesian women who are intelligent, broad-minded and really understand and appreciate the finer things in life, yet still hold true to their identity,' Biyan says.
It is then irrefutably fitting that the collection drew inspiration from the archipelago, such as through the transformation of traditional men's and women's clothes into a magnificent composition of masculine silhouettes, infused with the designer's trademark of polished femininity.
One profound illustration is his Keraton-inspired jackets and coats that majestically deliver the classy couture feel of Biyan.
Masculine outer wears with sloped, rounded shoulders ' some feature a high-slit vent on the backside, heavily reminiscent of the traditional Javanese beskap men's jacket, are embellished with dazzling ornamental applications.
They are either paired with fluid sarong-style pants or worn with a delicate top, such as a lace shirt or an embroidered blouse, and a skirt layered over slim pants. Long waistcoats, a few casually tied with a ribbon, are combined with oversized shirtdresses.
Chic kebaya in various silhouettes and volumes ' a fresh take on beloved Indonesian heritage ' were also displayed as an elegant yet edgy sheer overcoat, such as when sported over a knee-length floral motif lace dress worn with sarong pants.
The superbly modern and quirky layered look of colors, volumes and proportions cleverly accentuates the lineup; must-own outfits for today's fashion forward hipsters.
Sheer fabrics ' from shimmery-coated lace, fine Chantilly lace, tulle and organza ' are mashed together with solid materials like flowing silk, crinkled taffeta and classic gabardine, signifying a unique contemporary silhouette.
The graceful mix of a lavish brown coat and a long black embroidered lace dress worn over a pale khaki blouse and slim black pants is one example.
For his creations, different textures of fabrics are skillfully merged to produce impressively unique one-piece materials, such as a transparent print textile embellished with lace or patterned silk cloth applied as embroidery on a sheer tulle fabric.
As for patterns, Biyan explores authentic Indonesian batik, songket, tikar and basketry motifs ' appearing as gorgeous details on dresses, jackets and coats.
Oversized floral, geometric, birds and langoustine prints inject a bold punch to the entire collection.
All these stunning patterns are also combined, creating a vividly charming fusion of imageries, on sarong pants, skirts and flare dresses.
Throughout the show, Biyan's signature palette of dusty pastels seamlessly blended with tasteful colors, such as midnight blue, sogan brown, taupe, mauve, pumpkin brown and black.
The models strutted along the wooden runway, looking freshly natural with a sprinkling of rhinestones around their eyebrows and sleek hairdos adorned with tiny chic hairpins.
Handmade Maharaja-style crystal bib necklaces as well as super chunky platforms ' several adorned with mesh flowers and rhinestone appliques, were chosen as the right accessories to accompany the lineup.
And as for Biyan, 'The 30-year anniversary is a symbol of my eternal gratitude for the life that God has generously given me, in which I'm allowed to continuously work for a fairly long period of time. It is so precious to me.'
' Photos by JP/R. Berto Wedhatama
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