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Lake Beratan: A sense of wonder, despite tarnish
Thoughtful: The much photographed temple with its towering backdrop of mountain ridge adds to the mystery of Lake Beratan
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Thoughtful: The much photographed temple with its towering backdrop of mountain ridge adds to the mystery of Lake Beratan. (JB Djwan)" height="498" border="0" width="330">Thoughtful: The much photographed temple with its towering backdrop of mountain ridge adds to the mystery of Lake Beratan. (JB Djwan)With its soaring, cloud-kissed mountain ridge rising from wide shores, Lake Beratan in Baliâs central Bedugal region has been classified as one of the 20 best lakes in the world.
Seen from the temple gardens with the Maru pagoda rising against the mist, Beratan has understandably been included on the list. However, just steps away, the view changes dramatically.
Plastic waste washes down from nearby villages into the turbid waters of this lake, which was born of ancient volcanic eruptions. Meanwhile, the oil sheens shine, speedboat engines scream and villas can be seen on the shores.
The natural beauty of this lake may lie in the eye of the beholder.
Chang Zhi, accompanied by his wife, Mae, on their honeymoon from Shenzhen, China, says he was shocked to hear that Lake Beratan was one of the worldâs best, along with Lake Como, Italy, and the pristine Lake Maligne in Canadaâs wilderness.
âMaybe the lakes in Sichuan province are more beautiful. There are many and they are truly magnificent. The water contains many minerals so they are colorful. In autumn, with the trees changing color as well as the lakes, it is beautiful. Each season the lakes change color and the area is pristine and protected,â says Zhi looking out across Lake Beratan as speedboats pass.
âI am shocked to think this is one of the worldâs best lakes. The lakes of Sichuan province are conserved and protected properly, so I think they are more beautiful.â
Despite this perspective from foreign guests, the people living nearby are proud and says the lakeâs setting calls them back to its shores on most weekends.
âThis lake and temple gives people a sense of wonder. They always come here from the city [Denpasar]. Some come every weekend because they can play on the lake and because life in the city is so far from nature. Here, life is natural and the air is fresh and cool,â says a local boat hire businessman, Semara Putra.
Pura Ulun, the Balinese Hindu water temple that sits on the lakeâs edge, is a common sight on postcards. The temple, reportedly built in the 17th century, has an 11-tiered meru (tower) and is dedicated to the worship of Dewi Danu, the water aspect of the goddess of fertility.
The lake is surrounded by breathtaking views of Mount Batukaru, and is close to a botanical garden that has a vast collection of rare and protected plants and vegetation, a local vegetable market, a golf course, spacious strawberry and flower fields, as well as camping and fishing grounds.
The lake offers local residents work, says Putra, who has set aside land for food and souvenir kiosks, which are offered for nominal rent, allowing small business development in the lakeâs parking lots.
âI was born here near the lake and we saw people here were setting up kiosks on the roadsides. They were banned from that, so we gave them space here,â says Putra.
On pollution, he is realistic. âWe have a team to watch and protect the lake. Across the lake and up that ridge is heavy forest. No one is allowed to cut the wood. If we hear a chainsaw, the police are there immediately to catch those chopping down trees. There is no building allowed. Development over there is banned,â says Putra pointing to the far side of the lake where the ridge spears the sky. Below this ridge, a line of villas has been built on the shore.
Darus, who works in the local customary chiefâs office, supports the idea. âDevelopment is banned there and I feel that is really good, that is positive to protect the lake. If we destroy this environment, then there is nothing left for the future â for our grandchildren.â
According to Semara Putra, while members of the local conservation team say they collect plastic and are trying to educate those living nearby about littering, thereâs nowhere to put the trash thatâs collected.
Thoughtful: <)
Thoughtful: The much photographed temple with its towering backdrop of mountain ridge adds to the mystery of Lake Beratan. (JB Djwan)
With its soaring, cloud-kissed mountain ridge rising from wide shores, Lake Beratan in Bali's central Bedugal region has been classified as one of the 20 best lakes in the world.
Seen from the temple gardens with the Maru pagoda rising against the mist, Beratan has understandably been included on the list. However, just steps away, the view changes dramatically.
Plastic waste washes down from nearby villages into the turbid waters of this lake, which was born of ancient volcanic eruptions. Meanwhile, the oil sheens shine, speedboat engines scream and villas can be seen on the shores.
The natural beauty of this lake may lie in the eye of the beholder.
Chang Zhi, accompanied by his wife, Mae, on their honeymoon from Shenzhen, China, says he was shocked to hear that Lake Beratan was one of the world's best, along with Lake Como, Italy, and the pristine Lake Maligne in Canada's wilderness.
'Maybe the lakes in Sichuan province are more beautiful. There are many and they are truly magnificent. The water contains many minerals so they are colorful. In autumn, with the trees changing color as well as the lakes, it is beautiful. Each season the lakes change color and the area is pristine and protected,' says Zhi looking out across Lake Beratan as speedboats pass.
'I am shocked to think this is one of the world's best lakes. The lakes of Sichuan province are conserved and protected properly, so I think they are more beautiful.'
Despite this perspective from foreign guests, the people living nearby are proud and says the lake's setting calls them back to its shores on most weekends.
'This lake and temple gives people a sense of wonder. They always come here from the city [Denpasar]. Some come every weekend because they can play on the lake and because life in the city is so far from nature. Here, life is natural and the air is fresh and cool,' says a local boat hire businessman, Semara Putra.
Pura Ulun, the Balinese Hindu water temple that sits on the lake's edge, is a common sight on postcards. The temple, reportedly built in the 17th century, has an 11-tiered meru (tower) and is dedicated to the worship of Dewi Danu, the water aspect of the goddess of fertility.
The lake is surrounded by breathtaking views of Mount Batukaru, and is close to a botanical garden that has a vast collection of rare and protected plants and vegetation, a local vegetable market, a golf course, spacious strawberry and flower fields, as well as camping and fishing grounds.
The lake offers local residents work, says Putra, who has set aside land for food and souvenir kiosks, which are offered for nominal rent, allowing small business development in the lake's parking lots.
'I was born here near the lake and we saw people here were setting up kiosks on the roadsides. They were banned from that, so we gave them space here,' says Putra.
On pollution, he is realistic. 'We have a team to watch and protect the lake. Across the lake and up that ridge is heavy forest. No one is allowed to cut the wood. If we hear a chainsaw, the police are there immediately to catch those chopping down trees. There is no building allowed. Development over there is banned,' says Putra pointing to the far side of the lake where the ridge spears the sky. Below this ridge, a line of villas has been built on the shore.
Darus, who works in the local customary chief's office, supports the idea. 'Development is banned there and I feel that is really good, that is positive to protect the lake. If we destroy this environment, then there is nothing left for the future ' for our grandchildren.'
According to Semara Putra, while members of the local conservation team say they collect plastic and are trying to educate those living nearby about littering, there's nowhere to put the trash that's collected.
'To make the lake even more beautiful people here must be more active in protecting and maintaining the lake and stop using plastic because it does not rot,' Semara Putra says.
He continues. 'We collect and burn the plastic. I know that is not the best, but we have little choice,' says Semara Putra.
Dewa Putryasa from the local people's social organization says his members hold a monthly clean-up at the lake. 'It's out monthly duty. We collect plastic and rubbish that we then burn as we don't yet have recycling. We need stronger conservation practices here ' we need stronger environmental protection rules from the government, we can't do it all without help.'
It is not only the lake that is at risk: A rare orchid that grows on the slopes of the ridge behind the lake may also be endangered.
Hassan Nurdin, an orchid vendor at Bedugal market, discusses the flowers that he sells. 'In this forest grow special plants. Near the far shore we have Pandan trees that are huge ' their roots as big as a man's thigh. Up there, in that cloud, grows a very special orchid. There are landslides up there, and after 50 to 100 years, these orchids grow out of that fallen soil. I think maybe the landslides release the spores, but I don't know for sure.'
The fate of the orchid might be a metaphor for Lake Beratan.
'We believe that if you have bathed in these waters and leave, transmigrate to Kalimantan, Sumatra or Sulawesi, and then come home on holiday, you can never leave the lake again. We see this all the time. People come home from good jobs and then stay ' they give up that life to be here,' says Darus.
Perhaps it is this that makes Lake Beratan one of the world's best lakes, not its natural beauty that is conspicuously compromised by human pressures, but its spiritual penetration deep into the psyche of its people and of visitors that return weekend after weekend to regain an awe for nature forgotten in
cities.
