Musa Widyatmodjo (Courtesy of Musa Widyatmodjo)

In the fashion world, beauty is a diverse concept, and its definition changes from time to time.

United Kingdom-based Italian academic, model and fashion activist Alessandra Lopez y Royo, who did research on contemporary Indonesian fashion and its impact on women, pointed out that today, the fashion industry around the world has taken steps toward inclusivity, representation and diversity.  

“Diversity in Indonesia is debated, but it seems to be more focused on the relationship between dress and faith, [revolving around] modest fashion. I have not really heard of body positivity, age issues or fashion in disability,” she said.  

She also opposed the idea that the ideal of beauty is a slim body, long hair and long legs.

“Because we are different, you cannot say that one size or one type of body is beautiful. A curvy body is also beautiful,” she said. “Beauty is like art. Italian art is different from Javanese art, but they both are beautiful.”

Royo also begs to differ with people who define disability as imperfection. Living with special needs was also an aspect of beauty, and today’s fashion industry has opened the door for disabled people to be models.

“We are imperfect by definition, because we are human. If we were perfect, we would be ghosts,” she said, laughing.   

Royo appreciates supermodels Adwoa Aboah, Cara Delevingne and Naomi Campbell for promoting body positivity.

As fashion activists, these models utilize social media as a medium to encourage people to focus more on maintaining their health and uniqueness rather than reaching other people’s ideal body standards.

“Models of today are not just manikins or clothed horses,” said the research associate at SOAS University of London. “They do not just wear clothes. They also talk to their followers and friends to start different initiatives.”

In a discussion with noted designer Musa Widyatmodjo at the recent Indonesia Fashion Week at the Jakarta Convention Center in South Jakarta, Royo wondered about the April issue of fashion and lifestyle magazine Elle Indonesia that she was reading.

Featuring Hollywood icon Angelina Jolie on its cover, the magazine drove her to question why very few Indonesian celebrities or models were featured on its glossy pages. “Indonesian women and men are beautiful and unique. They have different ethnicities that should be acknowledged,” she said.

As a franchise of French magazine Elle, Royo understands that it is hard for a local face to be featured on its prestigious cover. “But, inside the magazine, it should have more Indonesian content. Otherwise, what is the point of having Elle Indonesia? It might be as usual as Elle France,” she said.      

Like body sizes, certain age limits have also been challenged by many fashion activists, including Royo.  

Aged 60, she is still a model in London. As a gray-haired model, she wants elder women to be more confident of their age, and they need to know that, like young ladies, they deserve to look good by wearing nice clothes.

“It makes sense for designers and brands to use models of different ages, so that consumers can identify with the models, and they will be more confident about buying their products,” she said.

Royo praised China, where more people no longer consider the Caucasian face and body as the beauty standard, having instead embraced their own Chinese standards. More Asian models also appeared in their magazines.

Alessandra Lopez y Royo (Courtesy of Scott Salt)

She is keen to see such improvement in Indonesia.

“It is very important that Indonesian model agencies focus on nurturing Indonesian talent rather than just borrowing models from Europe or the United States. It is time to create your own standards rather than follow European modeling standards,” she said.

Musa agreed with Lopez. “In the world of fashion, diversity is the keyword,” he d.

Fashion, he added, was about change. In the past, in other countries, ideal women were those with white skin, a thin body, blue eyes and blond hair. Meanwhile, the ideal Indonesian beauty was defined as having yellowish skin, large round eyes and long and straight black hair.

“Today, everything has changed. We no longer want to accept something like that,” the 52-year-old said.

Musa recalled that, when leading the Indonesian Fashion Designers Association (APPMI) 20 years ago, he required that all fashion shows held by the association had to include Indonesian models — a regulation that was protested by many of its members at the time.

“For Indonesian people, change is deemed something taboo,” said the creative director of fashion house Musa Atelier.

When it comes to disability representation in fashion, some Indonesian deaf-mute models have already popped up in the country, Musa said. But he admitted that there were not yet any models with physical impairments, such as those with prosthetic legs or in a wheelchair.

Like fashion concepts, beauty concepts change. “Today, the beauty ideal is uniqueness with a story,” he said.

The beauty of the Indonesian people, he added, was not only a richness in stories. Ethnic and cultural diversity also contributed much to the country’s beauty. “We must be proud of our country.”