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Jakarta Post

The making of colorful 'lurik'

Tue, December 6, 2016   /   02:36 am
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    A worker tidies up the skeins of yarn before dyeing them. JP/Aditya Sagita

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    A man checks yarn that is being dried in the sun after dyeing. JP/Aditya Sagita

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    Women spin the yarn before putting it through the warping process. JP/Aditya Sagita

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    The rolls of dyed yarn are ready for warping. JP/Aditya Sagita

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    A man does the warping process and arranges the yarn according to its colors to weave them into lurik motifs. JP/Aditya Sagita

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    The hand of a worker during the warping process. JP/Aditya Sagita

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    A worker prepares the yarn for weaving. JP/Aditya Sagita

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    Two men work on lurik cloths using a manual weaving machine. JP/Aditya Sagita

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    A foot pedals the traditional weaving machine. JP/Aditya Sagita

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    A storekeeper measures and cuts a lurik cloth. JP/Aditya Sagita

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    Lurik cloth can be made into charming dolls and bags. The Kurnia Lurik showroom sells the handicrafts, as well as the lurik fashion items. JP/Aditya Sagita

Handwoven cloths have been part of Indonesian heritage for a long time. There are songket from Palembang, ulos from North Sumatra and lurik from Yogyakarta.

Lurik is derived from the Javanese word lorek, which means stripes, and the charm of lurik cloth comes from the colorful stripes of the strands of yarn woven into it.

lurik maker, a home industry called Kurnia Lurik in Sewon, Bantul in Yogyakarta, still uses traditional weaving machines in a bid to conserve the heritage.

To weave motifs into the cloth, the artisans need to pay serious attention to detail to select the colorful yarns to create tasteful color combinations.

The lurik is made not only by skilled hands but also by passionate souls, so it becomes a charming product.
One of the common motifs is called 
telupat, which is usually worn by royal servants in the Yogyakarta Sultanate. The motif was designed by Sultan Hamengku Buwono I and has been preserved until today.

The lurik cloth market has expanded, not only for traditional attire, but also for fashion products and handicrafts.
However, the 
lurik makers are getting older and the industry has yet to find a new cohort of young weavers to keep the lurik heritage alive.[evi]