Jamu is a staple of Indonesian culture, but those of the younger generations may find the herbal concoctions bitter and untrendy. A handful of contemporary establishments are out to solve that problem.

Indonesia is known around the world for its flavorful coffee, often praised for its full body and long, mellow aftertaste. Coffee drinkers from Tokyo to New York City can find “Java” from Sumatra to Papua.

In contrast, coffee is not a particularly unique beverage in the archipelago.

The distinctly Indonesian drink is jamu. It has a history dating back more than a thousand years, but lacks the global recognition of Indonesian coffee.

The herbal beverage has been coveted for its medicinal qualities since around 1,300 years ago, when the royal family of the Mataram Kingdom drank it.

Made from a variety of natural ingredients to treat specific ailments or as a health tonic, jamu is commonly sold today in glassfuls poured from bottles that are carted in woven baskets on the backs of middle-aged “mbok jamu”, or jamu women.

The women are usually found in rural areas and tell potential customers that their particular jamu will help cure a myriad of aches and pains, or a feeling of general rundown-ness.

Natural trend: Acaraki's modern interior creates a cozy yet fresh hangout amid Jakarta's historic Kota Tua area. (Courtesy of Acaraki)

The health benefits jamu touts has been the subject of much contention, but it has bigger problems than whether or not it will cure a headache: Jamu is in danger of dying out.

Its traditionally bitter taste that is loved by many Indonesians, including President Joko “Jokowi” Widodo, is losing its appeal among the younger generation.

In order to regenerate customers, a few businesses in Jakarta and beyond have put a modern twist on the traditional drink.

One such business is Acaraki in Jakarta’s Kota Tua (Old Town) area. The year-old business, named after the Indonesian word for jamu makers, prepares its concoctions using several different methods, including the French press and pour over.

“Most places act like bartenders; we act like baristas,” said Jony Wu, the owner of Acaraki. “Coffee is also bitter, so why not drink jamu?”

While Acaraki offers bitter beverages for those who enjoy the original taste of jamu, it also offers sweeter options like the Golden Sparkling — an iced jamu with sugar and homemade sparkling soda.

Ordering jamu at Acaraki quickly becomes a performance. Its “baristas” are happy to explain the intricate process of making each drink. Customers are also free to browse and smell the fresh ingredients used in the beverage, such as turmeric and tamarind.

Cold remedy: Acaraki serves refreshing options like Golden Sparkling, an iced jamu made with sugar and homemade soda.

Jony says that when customers are able to watch how their drink is made, it makes their connection to the drink stronger than simply buying the ready-made, bottled versions.

A sign hangs behind Acaraki’s bar: “We cannot guarantee the efficacy of our jamu, but we guarantee its integrity.” In other words, it might not cure your headache, but the staff put their efforts into making delicious drinks using fresh ingredients.

Another spot to get a dose of modernized jamu is Jamu Bar at the Pacific Place Jakarta. The hole-in-the-wall is owned by Claudia Ong, who has been drinking jamu all her life.

“Jamu is my family business, so I usually drink jamu every day,” said Claudia.

Her concoctions stretch the tradition of jamu even further than Acaraki does. Some of her drinks contain ingredients like chocolate, cinnamon and ginger in her own twist to finding ways to attract new customers.

“The whole idea behind my jamu bar is that I want the younger generation to appreciate jamu. It’s not typically trending or cool to drink it, so I wanted to rebrand one of our national assets,” she said.

The Jamu Bar menu notes the health benefits of each drink – a feature Claudia hopes will draw in young customers.

Herbal mocktail: Jamu Bar at Pacific Place Jakarta serves up its unique take on the herbal drink like a specialty cocktail. (Courtesy of Jamu Bar)

In Central Java, the Makuta Jamu Cafe has a few branches in the provincial capital of Semarang. Like Acaraki and Jamu Bar, it has also observed a declining trend in jamu.

“We believe the future of jamu remains very bright, but there is a sense of stagnation in the market,” said owner Sandro Budiono.

In order to break free from this stagnation, Sandro has not only come up with unique beverages, but has also branched out into jamu ice creams and lattes.

Sandro said many of his customers grew up drinking jamu but did not like its taste. But they have flocked to Makuta for its updated take on the drink.

Indonesia has many cultural assets, but few are as woven in the archipelago’s historical fabric as jamu. The drink is undisputedly Indonesian. That is why Jony, Claudia, Sandro and other entrepreneurs like them are innovating to keep it alive. 

As for Jony, he envisions not only a revitalization of jamu, but also growth in international appeal, a future in which jamu is sold all over the world. Until that happens, Acaraki, Jamu Bar and Makuta Jamu Cafe will continue to serve customers with their modern takes on a thousand-year-old drink. (ste)

— The writer is an intern at The Jakarta Post.