Far from ‘dryland’: Residents use a boat to travel about two hours from Cilacap to Kampung Laut.

More than 16,600 people or 4,000 families in Kampung Laut district, Cilacap regency, Central Java, live in isolation. They live separated from the Cilacap land, which can only be reached by a motor boat — a two-hour journey.

Local officials said the entire population of Kampung Laut lives in poverty in the district’s four villages: Ujung Klaces, Ujung Gagak, Ujung Alang and Panikel. They have limited facilities in all areas, not only in terms of economy, with a lack of electricity and clean water, due to the fact the district is located in the middle of the sea (Indian ocean), which is why it is called Kampung Laut (Sea Kampung).

It is located southwest of the Nusakambangan Island. One of the villages, Ujung Gagak, is really close to the Nusakambangan Island. Kampung Laut villagers get clean water from several caves in the island.

“Kampung Laut is the newest district in Cilacap; it was administratively recognized less than 10 years ago. The district status was established to maintain order in the area and control the population growth,” Hadiman Wira Pamungkas, the Kampung Laut district head, said. He added residents came from several places in West and Central Java. They later settled and built their homes there.

“Ninety percent of the people make a living by fishing and the rest are farmers,” he told The Jakarta Post recently.

The people are poor because of the district’s remote location, separated from Cilacap. They must take a boat, locally called jungkung or compreng boat.

“The Sleko Harbor [in Cilacap] is the boat terminal to and from Kampung Laut. It takes about two hours from Sleko to Kampung Laut by compreng boat”, Hadiman said.

“Therefore it is natural that people in Kampung Laut are left behind those in other villages in Cilacap, he said, adding that only two boats serve the Sleko-Kampung Laut route each day, one at 9 a.m. and the other at 1 p.m.

Compared to 10 years ago, however, the people lead a relatively better life now. Many permanent houses made of bricks are found in Kampung Laut. The district still has limited facilities. Three of the four villages still use kerosene lamps.

“From a few years ago, Klaces, the district capital, has had a solar generator, therefore at night the condition is not that bad. Ujung Klaces villagers can enjoy electricity, but it stops during in the morning,” Hadiman said. He said that lamps backed with solar power could provide light until 10 p.m.

After that, people use kerosene lamps.

But for people in the other three villages, kerosene is the only energy source. “The thing is that kerosene is now scarce. It is quite often that we run out of kerosene, leaving us in the dark. But we don’t think too much about it as we are used to it,” said Kasno, 40, from Ujung Gagak village.  

He said that the lack of clean water is also a big problem. It is difficult to find water in the district. “To get clean water, residents have to take a boat to Nusakambangan Island, where there are springs in several caves. The people then catch the water and every day we go there to take it,” Kasno said.

He said that boats were the main transportation means for the people. The Post, however, observed many motorcycles. People rode the bikes not only in the villages but also in Cilacap as they often brought along their motorcycle with them on board the boat taking them to the town.

As a district, Kampung Laut has a district office and an official house for the district head in the form
of a stilted house. An office for religious affairs has also been established. But it does not have police and military rayon command offices. Any security matters are currently handled by the Kawunganten district police.

“I don’t know if next year there will be a need to establish a police post here,” Hadiman said.

In order to improve the people’s welfare, according to Hadiman, Kampung Laut is being developed as a marine tourist destination with a focus on its seafood.

“Those who have never plied Segara Anakan [sea] by boat heading to Kampung Laut will enjoy it. I think this is tourist potential. Beside here, we have crabs cultivation and they are ready to be processed into delicious dishes for guests. It is also the right place to go fishing,” Hadiman said.

The boat fare from Sleko to Kampung Laut is relatively cheap, only Rp 20,000 (US$2.20) per person.

— Photos by JP/Agus Maryono

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