“You can eat dinner in Jakarta and breakfast in Fakfak,” Tourism and Creative Economy Deputy Minister Sapta Nirwandar said on a number of occasions during festivities for Fakfak’s 112th birthday.

Stressing that the journey to the quiet regency in West Papua is rather straightforward, with a late night flight from Jakarta and quick transit in Ambon allowing visitors to arrive by 9 a.m., the deputy minister was testing a possible catchphrase for Fakfak tourism while simultaneously revealing his passion for food, a passion that was certainly gratified in an area known for its nutmeg, varieties of sweet potatoes and bountiful seas.

Located along a scenic coastline dotted with emerald islets, Fakfak regency’s tiny capital city of the same name was hosting a week of celebrations from Nov. 10 to 16 to promote tourism and the area’s culture, an event that was the first of its kind for Fakfak and which was capped by the deputy minister’s visit.

Fakfak regent Mohammad Uswanas said before a feast of local cuisine attended by kepala suku (local clan leaders) in traditional dress, “Fakfak has potential like Raja Ampat and a rich history and culture … We hope to develop tourism in the region, including the diving and fishing possibilities.”

Great swaths of coral visible from the plane promise unexplored underwater panoramas, and judging from the out-of-this-world boat rides past craggy limestone bluffs and deserted white sand beaches, and 30 minutes of fishing one afternoon that garnered four gorgeous bluefin tuna, the possibilities for maritime pleasure in Fakfak appear endless.

“Tourism is part of the world economy now … and the Tourism and Creative Economy Ministry wants to support tourism in Fakfak in what is such a dynamic area,” Sapta said to the crowd before the meal.

During that lunch the conversation quickly turned to the religious tolerance in the regency, the only one in West Papua with a majority Muslim population, said the regent and later verified by West Papua in Figures, which cites Central Statistics Agency (BPS) data from 2011. Islam has roots in these parts dating back centuries to when the area had close ties with the Tidore sultanate in North Maluku.

Mohammad said, “Look at my family, in my family we have Muslims and Christians. We all celebrate Ramadhan and we all celebrate Christmas.” Muslims constitute 50 percent and Protestants and Catholics each make up approximately 25 percent of Fakfak residents, according to BPS figures from 2009-2011.

Two men enjoying the spread of grilled and roasted fish, papeda (sago porridge), taro and cassava cooked in bamboo, and a fabulous sambal pala (nutmeg chili sauce) told The Jakarta Post that Fakfak was unique for its religious diversity within families. And the two farmers were examples of such, Karas Namudat a Muslim and his nephew Herman of Protestant faith.

Asked how that had happened, Karas offered a philosophical response, “Religious faith is not a choice but something that happens before even the presence of organized religions in the world. The spirit or soul that enters each person at that time is what determines one’s faith.”

A lively spirit was definitely in evidence in Fakfak during evening performances of dance from throughout the regency, with each group’s movements, music and dress a study in variety, the only constant the prevalence of bouquets of bird of paradise feathers in the hands of swaying women.

Clan leaders Jernias Tutorop and Zubair Hobro, clad in intricate headgear decorated with cassowary feathers, were standing before a display of noken (orchid-fiber or bark bags with the strap worn over the head) and jewelry and gladly discussed how the rings and bracelets were created by their people, the Mbaham Matta. “We make these pieces through an extremely special — and secret — process that involves the use of sacred mantras. Others don’t make these like we do,” Jernias told the Post.

Asked about the origins of the term Fakfak, Zubair said, “It was originally ‘Pakpak’, which means ‘a place of war’ because of the many warring groups in the area, but when the Dutch came they couldn’t pronounce it and said ‘Fakfak’ instead.”

Fakfak is considered one of the oldest cities in Papua, established by the Dutch in 1898 along with Manokwari to the north. Evidence of that Dutch presence can still be seen along the main street leading from the port, with rows of bustling shops continuing to offer wares in colonial-era buildings that lend downtown Fakfak a timeless ambiance and sultry frontier edge.

But there is even more history to be had here. The district of Kokas, approximately 45 kilometers to the north, boasts the oldest mosque in Papua, Masjid Tua Patimburak, built in 1870. Nearby are dark, steamy caves dug by the Japanese during World War II, as well as a tiny stone battlement large enough for only a few lonely Japanese soldiers to keep watch over Bintani Bay.

That bay also preserves an even earlier history — rock paintings accessible only by boat in deep scarlet, featuring swaths of handprints, swirls of lines, lizard-like figures and geometric shapes. Similar to aboriginal art found in northwest Australia that is still being studied and dated, Fakfak’s extraordinary rock art lingers, yet to be scrutinized or analyzed.

“Fakfak is still pristine. People don’t know anything about Fakfak, and it looks so much like Raja Ampat, which is now so famous … There is so much potential here, for diving, for fishing. There are the prehistoric rock paintings, the natural world,” Sapta said during a group interview his final night in Fakfak.

Albert Hindom, who had just recited a nongnong, a kind of pantun or sung poem in the local language that speaks to and of the past, brought up the future to the deputy minister at the conclusion of one evening’s events, “When you get back to Jakarta, don’t forget us in Fakfak.”

After enjoying breezy boat rides through aquamarine waters, sampling the excellent food, and attempting various types of traditional dance alongside convivial locals, it is doubtful he — or any of the area’s other visitors — can or will.

— PHOTOS BY JP/Deanna Ramsay

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