The aroma of spices from the smoke of roasted meat pervades the air as vehicles pass a food stall on the side of the road in Jajag village, around 40 kilometers from Banyuwangi, East Java.

There’s something different about the menu of this warung, however. It specializes in reptile dishes, specifically monitor lizards.

Rudi, 29, owns the stall, which is open from the early evening into the night.

Along with his wife, Ratih, 25, he starts preparing the meat for roasting after buying monitor lizards from hunters around Jajag village.

Every day he slaughters 15 of the lizards, each weighing about 3 kilograms, which he buys from the hunters for a fixed price of Rp 10,000 (82 US cents) per animal.

“In the dry season, monitor lizards are hard to find because they mostly don’t leave their nests, while in the rainy season they’re very easy to catch,” Rudi said.

At work: Rudi readies to skin the lizards, which he says is more easily done in the river. (Aman Rochman)
He takes the heads, intestines and limbs to be mixed for catfish food.

Meanwhile, the reptile meat, liver and bones are cooked in a host of different ways for dishes that are served for about Rp 25,000 per portion.

While the skin is fired to make relatively inexpensive kerupuk crackers, other organs are more valuable.

Sun-dried reptile gallbladders are believed to have healing properties and sell for upwards of Rp 900,000 a kilogram.

Rudi is phlegmatic when he talks about preparing the animals for slaughter and that the process involves a fair about of him getting clawed and bitten.

Lizard meat is reputed to cure skin diseases, while the skin and gallbladder of the animals are traditional cures for diabetes and hypertension.

One loyal customer said he suffered from diabetes.

Haute cuisine: Reptile meat, liver and bones are cooked in a host of different ways for dishes that are served for about Rp25,000 per portion. (Aman Rochman)
“I visit this stall twice a week with my family to order dried gallbladders and enjoy some satay,” said Haryati, 49, said.

Rudi’s guests come from as far away as Jakarta; Semarang, Central Java and even Bali. Some even make monthly trips to savor Rudy’s reptile cuisine.

One patron, Nasir, said that the food was good for his skin problems.

“A friend brought me here when I didn’t know the effectiveness of this meat,” the 25-year-old said. “Now I eat it once a week. My allergies to eggs and milk has been reduced.”

Meanwhile, Rudi says that he’s going to keep selling lizard dishes so long as the animals are available.

It’s the only way he can earn a living for his family, he says.

The cook: <)