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Jakarta Post

Sleek, sporty look for active women

A collection by Yosafat Dwi Kurniawan

Niken Prathivi (The Jakarta Post)
Jakarta
Sat, May 31, 2014 Published on May. 31, 2014 Published on 2014-05-31T11:34:06+07:00

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Sleek, sporty look for active women

A collection by Yosafat Dwi Kurniawan. (Courtesy of Jakarta Fashion and Food Festival 2014)

Six designers have revealed their visionary collections for the Fall/Winter season at '€œTrendology'€ at the Jakarta Fashion and Food Festival 2014 in Kelapa Gading, Jakarta.

The six designers are Stella Rissa, Yosafat Dwi Kurniawan, Patrick Owen, Friederich Herman, Rinda Salmun and Bai Soemarlono for Populo Batik.

Maintaining her clean-cut signature style with bright colors, Stella Rissa accommodates modern women'€™s shapes and their active lifestyles into her Volume 01 collection.

'€œIt'€™s about time to expose women'€™s sporty side, which means that we'€™re not just producing tailored outfits, but outfits with a sporty elegance,'€ said Stella.

The artisan has used fabrics like gabardine and crepe, infused with tulle and leather.

Volume 01 presents 10 looks that include off-shoulder dresses, crop-tops with A-line pleated skirts, bralettes with peek-a-boo skirts, H-line dresses with flirty frills, tri-color overlapped blouses with tulle-detailed pants, mini-dresses as well as sleek jumpsuits.

Stella has dedicated her latest collection to the league of what she calls '€œstellar women'€ '€” well-dressed women who promote a positive and healthy body and active lifestyle.

Continuing the spirit of his Fall/Winter collection as introduced at Paris Fashion Week in February, Yosafat Dwi Kurniawan displays 12 looks for the Trendology runway.

'€œEight outfits of the collection are ones that I took to the recent Paris Fashion Week. As for the [Trendology] show, I'€™ve added four looks for men. It is actually my first time to reveal my own men'€™s collection,'€ Yosafat said.

Titled Celestial Clouds, the designer said the collection had been inspired by a modern interpretation of the Cirebon, West Java, mega mendung batik.

Mega mendung, which the designer loosely translates as '€œgiant cloud'€, is elaborated by a beautiful array of beading, which resembles the traditional motif.

Yosafat uses a lot of black in several gradations for the collection. However, he also uses bright gem-like colors, such as ruby, for his print outfits.

He turns his drawings into body-fitted dresses and playful A-line dresses for women, as well as sweatshirts that are paired with pants or shorts for men.

Known for his stunning print-based drawings, Patrick Owen has endeavored to splash up the runway with his spiritual-inspired collection.

Using '€œGod is great'€ as his main theme, Patrick said he was inspired by the existence of God while producing the collection.

Patrick further said that the collection was also influenced by the kecak dance from Bali, which portrays a form of communication between human beings and a higher being in seeking peace and blessings.

Dark colors dominate Patrick'€™s collection of fitted dresses, oversized and asymmetrical dresses, long-sleeved shirts, short-sleeved tops and pants.

Loosely inspired by the experimental film, Chelsea Girl, which was made in 1966 by Andy Warhol and Paul Morissey, Friederich Herman has Superwoman in mind for his latest collection.

Friederich said that the current trend was about sporty and relaxed shapes that are combined with enhanced cuts and texture mixes. Therefore, he likes to keep to a concept of fit-tailoring versus volume by using warm and romantic colors like indigo and candy apple, to fuel drama into sharp linear silhouettes on his drawings.

While his color palette is soft, Friederich avoids becoming overly sweet by presenting sporty nuances in slouchy but elegant silk organza dresses and pants with fleece flannel, oversized blazers with fluid, wide godet skirts and lace panels.

Meanwhile, Rinda Salmun is a fashion designer whose drawings are inspired by the beautiful parks in capital cities around the world.

This time around, she has used the idea of Hyde Park in London for her Fall/Winter collection, which combines a sense of playfulness, patriotism and bravery.

As part of Rinda'€™s brand characteristic, her latest collection offers the idea that clothes can be bold and gallant but also feminine at the same time.

The collection ranges from geometric cuts on masculine tops with a touch of femininity, playful wavy lines within a sharp silhouette of monochromatic knee-length coats, tuxedo dresses with bold lines and cutouts that emphasize a woman'€™s curves, as well as contrasting panels of prints and cuts on cocktail dresses and work attire.

Rinda variously applies shades of pink, pearl white and black in a frame with pixilated floral prints of red, black and white along with geometric grids of red and light blue.

The collection uses gabardine, crepe silk, silk charmeuse, duchess silk, denim and jersey, with additions of stretched mesh and organza.

Bai Soemarlono, meantime, offers a collection of mostly iconic, classic Javanese batik patterns in a simple black-and-white color contrast.

Inspired by traditional Javanese motifs from Yogyakarta and Surakarta in Central Java, the collection contains heritage patterns like slobok, sisik ikan, tirtoredjo, gedek, ceplok and various interpretations of the kawung motif.

All the motifs are simple and clean with no additional decoration.

All the drawings are applied to jackets, blouses, pants and dresses.

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