The Jakarta Post
Endless surprises are what one can expect from high-end designer Biyan Wanaatmadja.
His Spring/Summer 2015 collection, themed Seruni (chrysanthemum), reflects a fresh approach to the ever-present floral prints used in women's dresses.
The edgy designs of the collection were built around Biyan's interpretation of the flower, which has long been a symbol of life and eternity in Asia.
The collection, according to the man behind the BIYAN line, was an exploration of his old designs that riffed on translucent fabrics made from different materials.
Multi-layered flowers appeared as print motifs or three-dimensional embroidery, which accentuated the minimalist silhouettes that dominated the collection.
Pieces came with asymmetrical ruffles or layers and colors from the opposite ends of the palette that blended well, such as nude colors and black.
Aside from the color play, Biyan brilliantly married different elements in his designs and therefore create a balanced contrast.
A strong Asian feel was seen in the use of yukata (kimono) designs and samurai-inspired pants with a touch of Japanese motifs such as flowers, leaves, cranes and peacocks.
The Surabaya-born designer blended Japanese art and culture with the tribal motifs and the ikat (woven cloth) of Sumba in Indonesia, mostly for men's wear, presenting elegance and strength for the fashionable and confident.
Biyan brilliantly created both couture and ready-to-wear concepts for the collection that favored women and men of different ages and sizes.
'Seruni puts out a pure and innocent character while showing off another character of a cool, strong and yet very stylish person ' and both are equally balanced and beautiful,' Biyan said about his latest creations.
The Seruni collection was presented at the opening of Bazaar Fashion Festival on Oct. 22 at the Jakarta Convention Center in Central Jakarta. The event was attended by, among other guests, Mufidah, the wife of Vice President Jusuf Kalla, and Veronica, the wife of acting Jakarta governor Basuki 'Ahok' Tjahaja Purnama.
Although Seruni hit the runway in June to mark Biyan's 31 years in the industry, the recent show shed new light on the collection.
Contemporary, new-age music with a playful lighting design accompanied models who included the renowned Dominique Diyose and Dimas Beck on the runway, with an audiovisual installation of clouds that let out drops of rain and, later, crystals of snow.
The installation, titled 'Constellation Neverland', was created by the Bandung-based Sembilan Matahari collective, which was recently named best designer at an international lights festival in Moscow, Russia.
Photos by JP/Ricky Yudhistira