Coming soon: People walk past an MRT station gate that is under construction in Dukuh Atas in Jakarta on Jan
oming soon: People walk past an MRT station gate that is under construction in Dukuh Atas in Jakarta on Jan. 7. The transit oriented development area of the MRT encompasses 12 gates, which are expected to be completed by June.(JP/Dhoni Setiawan)
Decades of development have turned Dukuh Atas in South Jakarta into the capital’s major transportation hub, leaving no trace of the duku (lanzones) plantation area that once gave the place its name.
Lanzones trees as tall as 30 meters used to be a common sight in Dukuh Atas, with the fruit — resembling small potatoes in color and grapes in shape — dangling from the branches. Pedati (horse or cow-drawn carts) would fill the streets, loaded with the bittersweet fruits ready to be distributed to various areas, including Batavia, today Jakarta’s old town, better known as Kota Tua.
Historian Akhmad Sofiyan said a map from 1625 showed that Dukuh Atas used to be filled with duku trees, hence the name.
“Dukuh was a hilly area, located on the northern bank of Jakarta’s West Flood Canal. The area was divided into the uphill Dukuh Atas and Dukuh Bawah at the foothill, presently known as [the subdistrict of] Setiabudi,” Sofiyan said.
A railway line connecting Batavia with Buitenzorg (now Bogor) built in the early 1870s also cut across the Dukuh area, paving the way for horse-drawn trams and later electric trains to carry not only plantation crops, but also people.
However, as decades passed, only the railway remains.
The area is turning into the capital city’s hub, a process that, according to Sofiyan, apparently began soon after Indonesia’s independence in 1945, when the thoroughfares of Jl. Sudirman and Jl. MH Thamrin were built.
As Dukuh Atas connects the two roads, development in the area moved fast, including during the 1960s in preparation for the 1962 Asian Games in Jakarta.
Office buildings and shopping centers standing tall over the area have long replaced the duku trees. The plantation workers, meanwhile, have been replaced by rushing white-collar employees.
Pedati are no longer in sight as people line up to board Transjakarta buses, which began operations in 2004, at the two Dukuh Atas bus stops. A recently renovated pedestrian bridge, decorated with hexagons that glow at night, connects the two stops.
Commuter trains linking the city with satellite areas also operate on the existing railway, departing from what is now Sudirman Station.
To the west of the station lies BNI City Station, which provides Railink services to and from Soekarno-Hatta International Airport in Tangerang, Banten, which has been operating since 2017.
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