Take the dendeng balado (spiced beef jerky), for example. Hailing from Padang, West Sumatra, the dish is typically made from thinly sliced beef that is dried and fried before being stir-fried with balado (Padang’s signature spice mixture) and is a staple of the nation’s Padang restaurants.

The Mamasan take includes caramelized Wagyu beef cheek with green mango salad, lemongrass, kaffir lime, chili and lemon basil.

People who are familiar with the traditional version of the dish might find Mamasan’s take a bit too sweet and juicy for their taste. The changes were – perhaps – deliberate in order to accommodate the tastes of those who cannot handle the heat and spice of the original recipe. Despite the modifications, Mamasan’s dendeng balado is still one of the highlights of the menu.

The two-story restaurant, nestled in the heart of Bali’s Seminyak area, was founded by noted Scottish chef Will Meyrick in 2011. The word “mama-san” refers to a woman in charge of a bar or nightclub, mainly in Japan and other parts of East Asia.

Upon entering the retro-inspired establishment, guests are greeted by a mural by Justine Missen featuring a beautiful, East Asian-looking woman wearing a traditional dress. The painting is well-known among regulars and people who are familiar with the establishment.

Going strong: Mamasan remains a fixture amongst Bali's top restaurants despite the COVID-19 pandemic thanks to its popularity within the local market. (Mamasan/Courtesy of Mamasan)

Mamasan is one of the few top restaurants in Bali still up and running during the pandemic, which has devastated the tourism-reliant island. While it was closed for a few months last year, Mamasan eventually managed to reopen. Meyrick’s other restaurants on the island – including Sarong, which specializes in Indian cuisine; Billy Ho, a Japanese izakaya-inspired restaurant; and Hujan Locale, an Indonesian restaurant – are closed until further notice.

“We’re very lucky. Mamasan has a strong local market […] that has kept us afloat, which we’re very appreciative of,” said Meyrick from Perth, Australia, on Tuesday. “I think this has been the biggest learning curve for many businesses within Bali.”

For Indian food lovers craving the cuisine of Sarong in Petitenget, Bali, Mamasan’s menu now includes several of its sister restaurant’s signature dishes. The highlight of these is the Tandoori Ajwani Seafood Tikka, with prawn, squid and fish marinated in yogurt, garam flour, ajwain and garam masala. While it takes the kitchen staff at least 20 minutes to prepare the dish, it is worth the wait, and the portion is quite big – perfect for family-style dining. Consider adding cheesy Naan bread to complete the experience.

While it currently serves as a temporary host for several of Sarong’s dishes, Mamasan remains on top with its own popular dishes.

Favorites include the signature pork belly with Szechuan chili salt, tamarillo and tamarind sauce, as well as the roasted peking duck, which is one of the restaurant’s best sellers, with steamed choy sum red bean sauce and Mandarin-style pancakes.

The pork belly – with jasmine rice on the side – is recommended for those who want to treat their tongue to savory, juicy pork belly that slowly but surely fills the belly. The roasted peking duck allows guests to create their own mini-sandwiches.

With prices ranging from Rp 90,000 (US$6) to Rp 200,000 ($14), Mamasan’s key is perhaps its versatility, with regard to the dishes, the cocktails and the ambiance in general. As a must-visit restaurant in Bali, Mamasan is fancy enough for people who want a special night out, yet it is relaxed enough for family dinners.

Like other businesses, Mamasan has faced difficulties during the pandemic. Changes have had to be made. The second floor, where chefs usually prepare dishes while interacting with guests, is mostly closed. However, guests are still able to lounge on the second floor with drinks in their hands.

Cocktail lovers will enjoy Mamasan’s selection of cocktails, including its passion fruit margarita and its strawberry-basil spritz. This reviewer recommends Mamasan’s signature coconut mojito, with rum, coconut water, syrup, mint and citrus, topped with sweetened coconut flakes – simply delightful.

Always room for dessert: Mamasan does not have plenty options for desserts - it's deep-fried ice cream is the most recommended for those with sweet tooth. (Mamasan/Courtesy of Mamasan)

The restaurant has also opened an online shop where people can order ready-to-cook curry paste from Mamasan to enjoy the restaurant’s flavors at home. Those who live within 2 kilometers of the restaurant can also order cocktails for delivery.

Surprisingly for a restaurant of such caliber, Mamasan does not offer many dessert options. This may disappoint those with a sweet tooth, who always have room for dessert. The restaurant offers only three choices: deep-fried ice cream with Nutella, crème brûlée with an affogato and crispy Pavlova meringue. Of the three, the deep-fried ice cream is the highlight – simply because it is closer to Mamasan’s brand of mostly Southeast Asian street-food-inspired dishes.

The crème brûlée, which lets out a cracking sound as you break it, has the signature soft custard texture combined with the hardened, caramelized sugar top. The affogato on the side balances out the sweetness of the crème brûlée.

The crispy Pavlova meringue – with mango mousse, passion fruit coulis, mixed berries and coconut ice cream – is perhaps a little too sweet for some, though others might enjoy it.

The deep-fried ice cream may bring back childhood memories for Indonesians of afterschool street snacks, and non-Indonesians will appreciate a dessert that is closer to Southeast Asia without forgetting the fine-dining twist.

It would be great if Mamasan could tap into the world of Southeast Asian street food desserts. In Indonesia alone, there are traditional desserts such as klepon (steamed, pandan-flavored rice balls with caramel filling). Why not start there? A klepon-style gelato, perhaps?