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Jakarta Post

Dining among greenery and waterfalls

"Are we going to eat or are we going on a hike here?" This was the rather agitated question-cum-complaint of an admittedly very hungry visitor to a dining area just north of the city center of Bandung, West Java recently

Simon Marcus Gower (The Jakarta Post)
Bandung
Fri, November 7, 2008

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Dining among greenery and waterfalls

"Are we going to eat or are we going on a hike here?" This was the rather agitated question-cum-complaint of an admittedly very hungry visitor to a dining area just north of the city center of Bandung, West Java recently.

He was in fact not really going on a hike at all. There are no muddy fields or steep inclines in this location.

The pathways are paved and their gradients are modest and comfortable. Rocks and greenery here are not to be clambered over but to be viewed and admired.

This is a location known as Kampung Daun (Leaf Village) which offers a dining experience in and among the nature.

A waiter skillfully carries dishes to diners as the rain lightly falls. (JP/Simon Marcus Gower)

It is an area that is just far enough away from the city so as to be able to enjoy good, cool, clean fresh air but not so far away as to be difficult to reach.

The approach to Kampung Daun is via the northern Bandung area of Dago and then on and up along roads that steadily incline upward.

These roads are lined with sellers of flowers and plants and the range of greenery on sale is quite incredibly diverse -- from small rose bushes right through to massive palm trees.

But at Kampung Daun, the focus is not really on buying little pieces of nature but is rather more about being surrounded by nature and consequently benefiting from it.

Arriving at the location, one of the first things that the visitor needs to do is make a reservation of a dining area.

A small kiosk is set up near the entrance to the area where a map is laid out. This map illustrates the various dining locations that are dotted on and up the hill.

A place for dining needs to be reserved and there are a variety of dining locations available.

They range from small chalet type units that can seat no more than four diners, right through to large cabins that can accommodate quite large parties of thirty to forty, such as for corporate functions and social events.

All are constructed with timber, bamboo, rattan and topped by thatched roofs. All of the dining areas have a traditional and appealing look to them.

Having made your reservation, it is time to walk on up to find the reserved chalet or cabin and it is this walk that the hungry diner was complaining about.

But it is a pleasant and leisurely walk. In the same area as the reservations kiosk is a large cabin that contains what amounts to a factory outlet selling clothing and accessories.

Immediately in front of this large, long cabin is a performance area which seems more in keeping. During this visit, local musicians were playing and singing, and their instruments and voices reverberated up and off the solid rock walls of the hill.

It is the solid and exposed rock of the hill that is one of the first things that comes into view as progress is made up the hill. At the foot of the rock wall a small mountain stream runs and this is the first indication of the waterfall that lies ahead.

Soon enough, the sound of the water falling over rocks can be heard. But this, again, is not a hike or trek -- the waterfalls are leisurely passed over via bridges that are stylishly and sturdily constructed from timber and bamboo and firmly rooted in concrete foundations.

The sound of the water rushing and tumbling over the rocks is therapeutic and the sights of it splashing and pooling as it goes down the hill are almost mesmerizing and easing on the mind. Arriving, then, at a chalet in which to dine it is possible to be put very much at ease by the surroundings.

The chalets are attractively constructed in traditional styles and look stylish with white drapes and batik detailing and cushions. Menus are delivered and orders taken and the food will soon be arriving from unseen kitchens.

The menu here is varied and good -- ranging from international cuisine to local dishes. On this visit, a quite light meal of keredok, a Sundanese specialty of vegetables in a peanut sauce dish very much like gado-gado , was particularly good.

It was followed by surabi, again a Sundanese and local dish which is in effect pancakes. This combined with wild strawberry tea made for good, light dining.

Even if a light rain shower should pass by this does nothing to dampen or undermine the pleasant feelings to be had dining here. In fact, in some ways, it may just add to the atmosphere. Diners are protected by the thatched roofs above their heads.

Waiters soon take up umbrellas and skillfully balance trays of ordered food and carry their umbrellas to keep the rain off them and their orders. It seems that nothing really disturbs the peacefulness and pleasantness of dining here.

As the rain recedes, and diners, perhaps reluctantly, make their way back down the hillside to leave and return to Bandung, a little shopping can be done.

Local coffee and tea is sold from stalls set up near the entrance-way and, at this time, sellers of exotic plants and garden-ware were also exhibiting and selling their goods.

But there seems little need to take nature away with you physically from Kampung Daun. The pleasant experiences of dining and residing among nature seem sufficient.

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