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Jakarta Post

Kedai: Home of comfort food, camaraderie and relaxation

Word of mouth is a wonderful thing

Agnes Ilyas (The Jakarta Post)
Jakarta
Sun, November 30, 2008

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Kedai: Home of comfort food, camaraderie and relaxation

Word of mouth is a wonderful thing. So I am passing along an excellent suggestion a friend once gave me: You should really check out this unique little place called Kedai at Jl. Benda No. 89 in Kemang.

Well, I did, and I was pleasantly surprised as it wasn't at all what I expected. Generally, when one thinks of a cafe in Kemang, the vision is of annoyingly chic minimalist furniture, bad piped-in music, a generic western menu and high prices. Kedai (which means kiosk or shop in Malay) has none of these things.

Entrance to Kedai -- a fairly large, sprawling structure painted outside in various shades of purple, pink and red -- is gained through French-like doors at the front of the establishment, which open into a spacious dining room that looks like somebody's handi-crafty aunt decorated it after having ingested a tad too many pots of teh poci (a potent brew of local tea leaves and rock sugar).

To the left, in front of a large window, a comfy looking couch and hefty coffee table beckon to those intent on steaming mugs of caffeine and an intimate chat, while the rest of the room hosts an eclectic array of wooden tables and chairs. The inside walls vie with the Kedia's outer surface for brightness, while upended red metal rice colanders hang from the ceiling at strategic points, masquerading as lamps.

According to the friendly staff, the decor -- including the furniture, lamps and creative (some quite humorous) signage -- are the products of the owner's creative imagination.

The whole homey atmosphere thus created is enhanced by the mellow and relaxing strains of a carefully selected play-list, dominated by Indie folk offerings and alternative rock classics.

The menus are no less creative and unique -- rectangular shaped scrap-booky looking pieces of cardboard held loosely together with pieces of colorful cord. Their contents are just as eclectic as the decor, yet somehow firmly grounded in the premise that certain foods offer a level of comfort that nobody can resist.

Kedai's menu is full of down-home Indonesian village fare such as nasi rawon, nasi gudeg komplit and bakwan komplit, complemented by two very creative versions of the classic Indonesian household staple nasi goreng. Kedai's versions bear the superstition-laden Javanese nicknames of Nasi Goreng Jumat Kliwon and Nasi Goreng Rabu Pahing.

The four of us settled in at the table by the window just to the right of the entrance, well within the zone of vision and earshot of the waiting staff. They tended to frequently pop in and out from the nearby cashier's station -- home to brightly patterned ceramic mugs on pegs and two large cookie jars of a Javanese man and woman, prominently labeled with the hopeful plea: "Mongo TIPSnya" -- on their way to and from the guest-laden tables and the kitchen from which decidedly pleasant smells were emanating.

We opted to try the Nasi Rawon, Ayam Segerr, Bakwan Komplit Porsi Besar, Nasi Goreng Jumat Kliwon and Gudeg Komplit, along with drinks bearing the rather ominous names of Chocolate Tremor and Choke on Chocolate to complement our other more pedestrian choices of soft drinks and iced tea. (The menu also features a wide range of fruit juices and smoothies for people who prefer a healthier beverage.) Then, before sending the waiter off for our goodies, we topped off the lot with a request for a dessert called Pisang Goreng Panas Dingin.

The drinks came first, followed in short order by the main courses which were divided among us so we could all try a bit of everything -- after all, four sets of taste buds are better than one.

A thick, dark meaty gravy appeared with tons of tasty beefy morsels -- the Nasi Rawon -- freshened up with the usual traditional accouterments of fresh mung bean sprouts, salted duck egg and freshly ground chili sauce, accompanied by a serving of steamed white rice. Thus far I can say that Kedai serves the best version of this ancient dish I have ever encountered, although (as was the case with the rest of the rice-based offerings) I would have liked to have had a bit more rice.

The Ayam Segerr, consisting of two pieces of chicken, steamed with orange leaves, lemongrass, green and cherry tomatoes and fresh cilantro -- served with white rice -- was delightful. Much as its name implies, this dish is like a festival of freshness dancing across your tongue.

In came a bowl big enough to swim in, containing Bakwan Komplit Porsi Besar, with all the yummy ingredients found in this delectable dish of Malang origin (in East Java) which are boiled wontons, huge bakso meatballs and tofu -- quite a filling offering.

Tiny anchovies and green chilies gave a pleasantly flavorful spin to staple Nasi Goreng Jumat Kliwon, perfect for a cold afternoon.

The Gudeg Komplit is as good as that which you would find on a Yogyakarta roadside, the birthplace of this classic dish.

The chocolate drinks were both what their names insinuated: Sensual indulgences in the best possible sense.

And our dessert, Pisang Goreng Panas Dingin, turned out to be a delightful twist on an old local favorite, the fried banana. The bananas are served with vanilla ice cream and drizzled with chocolate syrup -- a true feast of flavors.

Overall, Kedai provides a culinary experience and ambience that is certain to warm your hearts.

KEDAI Jalan Benda Raya No. 89, Kemang, Jakarta Selatan 12560

Phone: 021-7819945

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