Color is the secret recipe for success in the fashion business. It is the first thing that catches the attention. Another factor that is no less important is the material — it must be of high quality and processed well.

This secret recipe is strictly followed by fashion businesswoman Tjok Istri Ratna Sudharsana ever since building her fashion house Biat Design in Bali back in 1997.

“I call it color culture, and I keep developing it, applying many other things,” says the multitalented woman, who worked on many different things, from interior design and gift making, before setting her eyes on fashion.

In her products, Ratna uses different styles, from hand painting to fresh motifs, and does not hesitate to play with colors using the media of silk cloth.

Over the years, she has created beautiful and elegant shawls, hand-painted traditional blouses, while combining these with embroidery.

Ratna has developed her skills in using color and various materials over a long period, but chooses to use silk due to its better effect.

She decided to import silk from China because the quality is better than the local product, especially in the texture of the fibers.

“We select whatever looks good when we choose the color. We perfect the technique on a strip of material, but if the material doesn’t support the color then it’s a failure,” she says.

Ratna does not work alone in producing her art. She employs a number of workers in the office as well as craftspeople to paint and embroider.

But she retains the roles of developing the concepts, maintaining quality control of the materials, while at the same time securing customers.

“From developing an idea through to the design, I choose the colors. I do this myself. At the beginning it actually took quite a long time to transfer my ideas about the products to be made. But now the craftspeople and I have become soul mates. I just give them my ideas and they can then straightaway draw or embroider the design.”

Still, she cannot completely let go. She continues monitoring the process through to the point when the job has been finished. From time to time, she checks all the craftspeople to see how they are progressing, while at the same time monitoring the quality.

“I don’t want even a small mistake,” she says. “And so far the results are not disappointing.”

At her workplace, it takes about 20 days to finish one shawl. It’s the same with the traditional blouses where the embroidery is done by hand.

At present, Ratna still loves playing with Balinese motifs, such as frangipani flowers and hibiscus and patra (traditional Balinese border designs) motifs.

She also uses traditional Balinese paintings, such as those created by Lempad, in her pieces. The late I Gusti Nyoman Lempad was a famous Balinese sculptor and artist.

She has also designed many nature-inspired motifs, understanding that most of her customers are Muslim.

In determining the colors to be used, she makes an effort to adjust with the ambience and character of the client’s needs and country.

For example, she uses bright colors for American consumers, while for Japanese buyers, she uses pastel colors. For Europeans, she selects colors that are rather heavy, while a combination of gold and silver is preferred for her Asian customers.

Every shade of color is enriched using various combinations to fulfill the needs of all age groups. To make samples for European consumers, she produces shawls in black, dark purple or maroon.

“Our products are available for all nations and ages,” says Ratna, who is now going to Pusu, a village in East Nusa Tenggara, to help develop hand-weaving production.

She is amazed at the weaving crafts of the Pusu community, which feature special patterns that carry deep meaning in the local culture.

The only problem, says Ratna, is that the process still uses basic colors like black, white and red – making it hard to be marketed.

“If they keep producing the same thing all the, the market will quickly get bored. Moreover, the quantities are unlimited. People will finally feel that it’s enough to buy just one item,” she says.

This kind of situation also occurs in other areas across the country.

With that concern in mind, she wishes to transfer the success of Biat Design, especially in developing the color culture.

“Right now, I’m starting with the Pusu community,” Ratna says

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