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Jakarta Post

Beauty goes natural

Madonna loves it

Dian Kuswandini (The Jakarta Post)
Jakarta
Sat, July 25, 2009

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Beauty goes natural

Madonna loves it. Sienna Miller swears by it. Even Laura Bush and Condoleezza Rice go
for it.

All over the world, famous people and beauty enthusiasts everywhere are coloring their cheeks with mineral makeup.

Yes, here it is, the latest cosmetic trend, and this time it isn’t about what colors are in or whether the look of the day is glossy, matte or shimmering. Instead, it’s about how pure your makeup is.

Put the words “pure” and “makeup” together, and many of us might get confused, thinking: “Is there any chance makeup can be pure?”

Well, if you’re among those who are wondering about this, then you’ve never heard about mineral makeup — which is responsible for making women fall in love with their own glowing reflection in the mirror.

Mineral makeup is the cosmetic world’s response to the “green” movement. Since most people nowadays are paying more attention to their chemical intake and its effects on the body, there is now a growing trend for healthy lifestyles – and mineral makeup is filling the gap between beauty and health.

Mineral makeup is inspired by the minerals that exist in nature. These minerals, such as mica, titanium dioxide, zinc and iron oxides, are finely milled and purified, then treated or coated with pigments to create different colors and effects. Some mineral pigments are matte, others have a slight shimmer, while the rest are completely sparkly. Endless combinations of these beautifully colored minerals make for all sorts of powder cosmetics from foundation to eye shadow to blush.

And then we get to perhaps the most exciting part. Unlike conventional makeup, mineral makeup is not made using chemicals such as perfumes, dyes and preservatives, or even oil and talc, which are often behind those nasty breakouts. “Makeup so pure you can sleep in it,” as the Bare Escentuals tagline for
its mineral makeup products goes. This marketing statement has sent thousands of women crazy for this new cosmetic trend, with great reviews coming from every angle possible.

And the craze doesn’t stop there: Big mainstream cosmetic brands such as L’Oreal, Maybelline, Revlon, The Body Shop, Neutrogena and AVON launched their own mineral makeup lines in response to the trend.

“Mineral makeup has been the greatest trend so far in the US makeup industry, replacing the traditional makeup that uses chemicals,” says Cris Latief, CEO of US-based CieL Minerals, the first mineral makeup brand to make its way to Indonesia.

What makes mineral makeup so popular, Cris says, are the benefits that come with it. The natural look and feel, as well as the skin-loving formula of noncomedogenic and anti-inflammatory properties are among the big draws. In addition, mineral makeup stays on the skin all day long and acts as a natural sunscreen.

“A mineral foundation looks and feels much more natural, without sacrificing any of the coverage,” says Cris. “It smoothes and evens out skin tone, giving the look of naturally flawless skin, rather than the look of a thick mask [that you get with] traditional liquid foundation,” she adds.

Cris explains that it is titanium dioxide, a highly reflective mineral, that works to minimize fine lines and skin discolorations. Along with titanium dioxide is colorless fine-grained mica called sericite that deflects light, and thereby minimizes the appearance of pores, fine lines and wrinkles. Sericite also adds to the mineral makeup’s water-resistant and fade-proof properties.

As an Indonesian, Cris certainly knows what she is talking about when she says that mineral makeup is suitable for women who live in hot and humid countries like Indonesia, as “it doesn’t easily wear off or sweat off”.

And if you’re like most women who suffer from redness after those painful beauty treatments such as laser treatments and face peels, don’t worry. Mineral makeup does a good camouflaging job on your skin, while at the same time helps heal it.

“In fact, [many] plastic surgeons and dermatologists in the US recommend mineral makeup to their patients who have had laser treatments, microdermabrasion, [face] peels or plastic surgery because of its healing properties, which help reduce skin irritation,” Cris says.

Cris’ statement is in line with the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), which says that dermatologists do recommend mineral makeup to patients with rosacea (a skin condition characterized by inflamed, red, oily and acne-prone areas). These healing properties are contained in titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

These two minerals work as anti-inflammatory agents that help calm the skin, reducing irritation and redness. They both also offer natural sun protection against UVA and UVB rays.

According to Cris, CieL Minerals also includes kaolin clay in its list of ingredients. Kaolin clay is a natural mild clay that provides great coverage, refines pores, absorbs oil and aids in clearing up breakouts. Thanks to its soothing properties, kaolin clay makes mineral makeup ideal for sensitive skin. Another natural ingredient, she says, is iron oxide, a natural opaque mineral pigment that is used to create the beautiful “earthy” tones in natural mineral makeup.

Another big draw of the natural mineral ingredients is mineral makeup’s noncomedogenic properties – it doesn’t clog pores. Dermatologist Francesca Fusco tells American provider of health information services WebMD that because mineral makeup is noncomedogenic, it won’t aggravate acne or cause flare-ups, unlike some traditional products. So if you have oily skin, you won’t have to worry about emollients that might clog your pores. If your skin is sensitive, you won’t need to be concerned about a product containing fragrance. Mineral makeup allows your skin to breath. Sounds good, right?

Nevertheless, if you’re ready to switch to mineral makeup, you do need to be careful: Not all mineral makeup brands stay true to the basic ingredients of mica, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and iron oxide. The battle lines between brands are drawn this way: Mineral makeup brands that don’t use synthetics and stay true to the basic ingredients of pure mineral makeup, and those that contain fillers, colors, binders and preservatives.

Most of the brands in the second group, for example, still contain an arguably “natural” mineral known as bismuth oxychloride, a pearlescent agent that gives mineral makeup that “candlelight glow”. The thing is, although bismuth oxychloride is a mineral, it’s not found in the earth; rather, it’s a derivative of lead and copper processing.

“For some people, bismuth oxychloride can lead to irritation and pimples,” says Cris, adding that CieL Minerals is free from this irritating agent.

So, what does common mineral makeup look like? Because of the absence of binding agents, it’s usually in powder form. The writer trialed six mineral-based makeup brands, from the ones that use only pure ingredients (CieL Minerals, Everyday Minerals and The Body Shop) to big brands that include other ingredients (Maybelline, L’Oreal and Revlon) – all in the form of powder foundation and blush. At first, you can feel a bit skeptical about how this “powdery” stuff can cover the face as well as liquid foundation or compact powders. When you apply it, you’ll find it so light that you feel like you’re not wearing anything.

However, after 30 minutes or more, when it starts to blend itself into your skin, you find it does provide great coverage, leaving your skin flawless, without the “trail” of makeup use. Although each of the above brands has a different outcome, the overall result is satisfying.

The downside of mineral makeup is the application process – it does require practice. Why? Because mineral makeup is buffed into the skin using a wide, fluffy brush (like a kabuki brush) in a circular movement. And because mineral makeup powder is so loose and soft, it can be hard to handle: It tends to get all over the place.

But with mineral makeup, less is more, meaning that you don’t have to wear too much to hide your imperfections. You’re supposed to layer it on lightly and build up color. And the fun thing is, you can experiment by combining one shade with another until you get the perfect skin tone.

So, will you be one of those thousands of women who are ready to trade in traditional makeup full of chemicals for the increasingly popular purity of mineral makeup?

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