TheJakartaPost

Please Update your browser

Your browser is out of date, and may not be compatible with our website. A list of the most popular web browsers can be found below.
Just click on the icons to get to the download page.

Jakarta Post

Figueres: The easygoing birthplace of an eccentric

Fortress of solitude:  Formerly used as a military fortress in the 17th century, the massive Castell de Sant Ferran now sits silent atop Figueres, basking in the fresh, peaceful air

Dylan Amirio (The Jakarta Post)
Figueres, Spain
Sat, May 2, 2015

Share This Article

Change Size

Figueres:  The easygoing   birthplace of an eccentric Fortress of solitude:: Formerly used as a military fortress in the 17th century, the massive Castell de Sant Ferran now sits silent atop Figueres, basking in the fresh, peaceful air. (JP/Dylan Amirio) (JP/Dylan Amirio)

F

span class="inline inline-center">Fortress of solitude:  Formerly used as a military fortress in the 17th century, the massive Castell de Sant Ferran now sits silent atop Figueres, basking in the fresh, peaceful air. (JP/Dylan Amirio)

As a whole, Spain can be summarized by one simple word: charming. Cliché as it may be, it presents itself as it is.

Much of the country'€™s charm lies hidden in plain view from its major destinations.

Spain'€™s Catalonia region especially boasts many attractive destinations, such as Girona, Tarragona and the international hotspot of Barcelona.

But for those smitten by the charm of art, eloquence of history and an ever-relaxing pace can immerse themselves in the sleepy Catalonian town of Figueres: a town which embodies a peaceful lifestyle and immerses itself in the remnants of its history and culture.

Only an hour'€™s train ride away from Barcelona, the streets are narrow and cozy, the climate is temperate and chilly, the high-up views are magnificent and the people seem to take it easy; truly a Spanish experience.

High atop the hill that perches above the 18th century military fortress of Castillo de Sant Ferran, one can gaze upon the snowy mountains in the distance, sound-tracked only by the wafting wind blowing through the trees.

Reaching the castle itself, if on foot, is a steep climb, but worth every aching joint and pant of breath.

Inside the walls of the massive monument are scattered remnants of ancient army bastions that organize themselves as an elaborate star when viewed from above.

Castillo de Sant Ferran is the largest monument in Catalonia and the interior of the castle takes visitors back to the 18th century, to understand the fortress'€™ unique pentagonal design and why it is deemed as a marvel of Spanish military engineering.

Once built for the purpose of war, the massive castle'€™s outer areas are now probably the most peaceful site in the town.

The biggest draw to this town is arguably the Dali Museum and Castle, where many works (and the crypt) of legendary Surrealist painter Salvador Dali are housed.

Figueres is where Dali was born and due to his global prominence, he casts a shadow on the town, but one large enough that the locals can take shade under.

In true Dalian nature, the museum'€™s outer roof is painted a reddish purple and adorned with giant eggs, seemingly symbolizing the artist'€™s prenatal beginning.

Inside, Dali'€™s presence towers over his legacy like Jesus does over the religions that he inspired; his artworks and his wide-eyed self-portraits gaze upon visitors wanting to admire in his eccentricity and pay respects at his tomb.

Artworks celebrating the phallic and the feminine are exhibited throughout the many halls of this castle. One of my favorite sculptures in the museum is the Venus de Milo aux tiroirs (1964), which basically depicts the Venus de Milo as a simple household object.

On the roof inside the museum'€™s main hall, the bodiless hands of god and Adam (in homage to Michelangelo'€™s Sistine Chapel artwork) adorn the glass geodesic dome that lets the sky inside the hall.  

Overlooking the hall, the Gala Nude Looking at the Sea Which at 18 Metres Appears the President Lincoln (1975) painting presents itself as a mosaic optical illusion.

In one of the museum'€™s most notable exhibits: what looks like a few pieces of furniture, two paintings and a lips-shaped sofa scattered around randomly, really shows a likeness of American actress Mae West when viewed through a magnifying glass perched atop a high pedestal.

What makes the museum even more charming is that it is also made as a tribute to Dali'€™s artistic muse and eternal love, Gala Dali. It is clear how Dali loved his wife, Gala, based on the countless emotional artworks that are dedicated to her or depict her.

One particular small painting shows him peeling off the Mediterranean Sea, while putting his arms around Gala.

Dali'€™s renowned Portrait of Galarina (1940-1945) hangs in a room specifically dedicated to works depicting his love for Gala.

Another prominent Gala-work present in the museum is the Galatea of the Spheres (1952).

Outside of Dali, the town itself
offers a quiet beauty tucked within the narrow amber-colored alleyways and array of traditional tapas restaurants.

All of Figueres'€™ narrow streets seem to lead up to the town'€™s main square, named the Rambla, which is visibly the most bustling part of the town, what with most of the cafés and eating places situated around a well-treed square.

The proud Catalonian movement and heritage seems to be very apparent in this town of 44,000, with Catalan being used prominently by the locals and Catalonian flags hanging from some balconies.

Figueres'€™ old-style amber-colored houses and cobblestone streets make even just walking sound like music to visitors'€™ ears. Like many other towns in Spain, siestas are observed here, and truly it offers no better place for one to doze off or take a breather.

Just take care to not fall into the relaxed pace too much or you could forget about going back home.

Your Opinion Matters

Share your experiences, suggestions, and any issues you've encountered on The Jakarta Post. We're here to listen.

Enter at least 30 characters
0 / 30

Thank You

Thank you for sharing your thoughts. We appreciate your feedback.