Kiribati is a string of 32 atolls and a coral island spread out along the equator to the northeast of Australia. I was overwhelmed by the resilience, optimism, warmth and generosity of the people and the richness of their culture. It is a seafaring nation and one in which people have deep connections to the land '€” their land is their identity.

While king tides have always been part of life in Kiribati and other Pacific Island nations, including Tuvalu and the Marshall Islands, in recent times they have been exacerbated by climate change. The sea level itself has risen due to climate change, so at high tide the water comes even higher than in the past. When a high tide is accompanied by a storm surge '€” a sea rise caused by strong winds and low atmospheric pressure '€” the consequences can be devastating. Kiribati will be one of many countries coming together in Port Moresby for the Pacific Islands Forum beginning on Sept. 7, the region'€™s premier meeting at which climate change will be high on the agenda.

A representative of the Australian government is also expected to attend, and will most certainly have to defend their government'€™s woefully inadequate action on climate change, in the meeting with nations most affected by it, despite having done the least to cause it.

The evacuated Beito Hospital now has a sea wall protecting it. But the arrangement of sea walls on Tarawa Island is haphazard. Some are strong and supported by different religious communities to protect their properties. Others are built to protect vital infrastructure such as sections of the road, which are frequently washed away, making it difficult to transport goods and plane fuel from the port in the south of the island to the villages and airport in the north.

Other areas have basic or no protection at all. This intermittent arrangement of sea walls leave unprotected areas more vulnerable. Members of Ton Matoa '€” the '€œStrong Warriors'€ disability group that is active around climate change '€” told me of their struggle to stay safe as the waters lapped into their communal sleeping and meeting place.

These stories were fresh in my mind when I met with Kiribati President Anote Tong, who eloquently described the plight of his people.  He spoke of his commitment to ensuring Kiribati did not disappear entirely, adding that the challenge of acting on climate change is '€œa test of humanity'€, adding that '€œit is not such a difficult test.'€

Helen Szoke
Oxfam Australia

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