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Mark my words: Food, Trends and the Future
Culinary corridors and flourishing franchisesWORDS Kevindra P
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Culinary corridors and flourishing franchises
WORDS Kevindra P. Soemantri
Jakarta has been reshaping itself as a food city.
Over the last few years, we have witnessed the rise of the usual suspects like Korean food and martabak, as well as oddball ones, such as Namaaz's molecular gastronomy and Ron's Laboratory's nitrogen-chilled ice cream.
The year is posed to be even more interesting'and here are some of the trends, as I see it.
What's apparent is that culinary corridors are flourishing everywhere. Pantai Indah Kapuk (PIK) and Jl. Senopati, for example, have in recent times become two of the most important spots for Jakartans to eat.
But don't forget that there are also places like Historia Cafe, in Kota Tua, West Jakarta'a spot attracting the attention of youngsters. Also noteworthy in Kota Tua are Bangi Kopitiam, Kedai Seni Djakarte and Gedung Rotterdam.
If only Jakarta Governor Basuki 'Ahok' Tjahaja Purnama can realize his vision of a clean and proper old city. Kota Tua might then take on some of the vibe of Penang's old city'or even Singaporean riverfront places like Clarke Quay, where you can stroll along wide streets while dining and drinking in modern establishments.
Separately, more famous franchises'both family restaurants and fine dining'are making local bows. There's NamNam Noodle Bar from Les Amis at PIK and Plaza Indonesia and the House of Yuen from Sun Tung Lok at the ritzy Fairmont hotel. There are even rumors of the return of Subway.
Meanwhile, it seems that shipping containers have found a second life after making their trans-oceanic voyages. FoodContainer in South Jakarta offers us a foodcourt-like experience, with tenants and guests housed in containers.
Continuing on the nouveau foodcourt theme, Southbox at Prapanca spoils diners with a variety of options, from classic bakmi ayam chicken noodles to Middle-Eastern delicacies.
There's also Eat Republic in the suburbs of Depok, West Java, offering good food, good music and family recreation; as well as Eat Republic, where local cuisine is the star and menus feature pempek from Palembang, grilled rice from Manado and nasi goreng kambing (goat fried rice) Betawi style, among many other dishes.
These developments are variations on the foodcourt concept that first took root in Jakarta in the 1990s'and which seems to be gaining speed, given the rapidly rising number of people in the city's middle-income segment.
Another development has been in afternoon tea, with many restaurants and cafes offering patrons a chance to enjoy pastries, hors d'oeuvres and good quality tea after lunch.
Thanks go to TWG Tea Salon & Boutique in Plaza Senayan as one of pioneers introducing'or reintroducing'the genteel practice of enjoying the beverage, in its gold-and-amber space.
Another more recent entrant is Lewis & Caroll, a tea boutique on Jl. Bumi near Mayestik market. The place, which takes its name from the author of Alice in Wonderland, brings to life the legendary Mad Hatter Tea Party.
More refined versions of afternoon tea are also offered by hotels, such as the Fairmont and its serene Peacock Lounge, and at legendary restaurants, such as Oasis Heritage Restaurant on Jl. Raden Saleh or Tugu Kunstkring on Jl. Teuku Umar.
These places all boast a gourmet tea experience and mini-bites, such as classic British scones to Indonesian jajanan pasar (street snacks).
Finally, local chefs have been giving local food a makeover, with the path blazed by Marco Lim of Marco Padang, who has brought traditional Minang cuisine to the next level.
Bunga Pepaya in Cikini also offers a more modern way of eating classic Manado food; while at the Fairmont, the movers behind the first wave of modern Indonesian food, the Sate Khas Group, have established an Indonesian fine restaurant, 1945.
Outside of upscale dining, classics such as jajanan pasar have also attracted the interest of a new generation of Indonesian chefs.
QUE, a brilliant venture from young pastry chef Anjani Rahardjo, has glorified sticky kue putu and recreated it as a sponge roll'all for the sake of introducing traditional treats to picky younger eaters.
It leads me to hope that, despite trends, more exotic and hidden traditional cuisine can be enjoyed in modern and unique ways.
Mark My Words shifts focus between food, fashion, parenting and travel each week.
