The once vaunted nightlife spot of Kemang, South Jakarta, is slowly losing popularity, with less and less people flocking to its numerous bars and restaurants.

A stroll down the uneven sidewalks of Jl. Kemang Raya, the area’s main thoroughfare, reveals that the once constant hum of activity has given way to silence, punctuated only by a few vehicles passing by.

An employee of a restaurant, who did not wish to be named, said that business began slowing down months ago.

“Until at least six months ago, it was business as usual. Now, we have empty tables even on weekends. Most people prefer 24-hour establishments,” said the employee.

The nearby fast food joints, however, are abuzz, with customers ranging from office workers looking for a quick bite on the way home to students working on their assignments.

Agung, a high school student who spent the better part of the night working on an essay in McDonald’s, said he found the place to be livelier than other establishments.

“The lighting is good here, and because there’s always a crowd I don’t have to worry much about any criminal activity. My parents told me I should watch out because the roads tend to become deserted late at night,” said the 18-year-old.

Kemang was designed as a water catchment area until 1985. In the early 1980s it became a residential area with luxurious houses catering to expatriates in particular.

In 1999, the Jakarta administration decided to change the designation of Kemang into a commercial area as many restaurants, cafes and other business had been established there. In 2016, however, Jl. Kemang Raya was badly inundated, paralyzing the entire area.

A floor manager at a bar tucked away just off Jl. Kemang Raya said that customers were often on edge because of the recent spate of crime in the area.

“We have security guards and CCTV cameras on our premises, but since most of the recent crimes have taken place on the streets, it’s understandable that not many dare venture outside the crowded areas,” said the manager, adding that his bar tended to attract greater crowds on weekends, necessitating extra security.

Just a few nights ago, the roads of Kemang bore witness to a number of criminal acts.

On March 4, a member of the National Police’s Mobile Brigade (Brimob) was found bleeding heavily from stab wounds outside a cafe. In the early hours of March 5, a motorcycle gang rampaged through the streets, causing property damage and injuring four people.

On Feb. 18, a musician was car jacked at gunpoint after coming home from a gig at Sky Rooftop. Two days later, a man was found naked and inebriated, the victim of a robbery after meeting up with someone he had met online.

Regulars have seemingly abandoned Kemang in search of newer watering holes. A number of businesses have even closed shop, including the open-air Kemang Food Festival food court.

Nina, a private sector employee, said that she used to go to Kemang for drinks with her friends, but had moved to other premises in the Sudirman Central Business District (SCBD) in South Jakarta.

“SCBD is much closer to my office, and I can take the TransJakarta bus to get there. I’d rather not drive to Kemang in after-work traffic just for a few cocktails,” said Nina, adding that the establishments in SCBD were centralized, making it easier to go bar-hopping instead of walking the streets of Kemang.

However, Kemang’s reputation as the haunt of expatriates remains intact.

Birgitta Hogendoorn, a Dutch expatriate who has lived in Kemang since November 2015, said she found the neighborhood to be pleasantly tranquil and safe.

“We’ve lived in several other countries before and I’ve haven’t felt as safe anywhere else as I feel here,” she said, noting that she rarely goes out to the various restaurants and bars on Jl. Kemang Raya. (jlm)

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