Proud champions of the nation’s signature dishes are now taking the food dished out at humble stalls, which are seen at every corner and cross-roads across Indonesia, to international palate.

Where can people learn to make the most delicious gudeg (jackfruit stewed in coconut milk) or nasi liwet (rice in coconut milk)?

The pursuit of the answer may take you to far flung corners of Indonesia, such as Wijilan in Yogyakarta or Keprabon in Surakarta, Central Java, where you would have to beg the food vendors to share their secret recipes.

If you were to ask about a region’s signature dish, there would be so many answers that it may take you days to try them all.

This country may be home to many food stalls serving traditional food, yet, finding them in posh shopping malls takes a lot of effort, there are only a few establishments compared to dozens of international chain restaurants that offer anything from Chinese to Italian food.

Many five-star hotels and restaurants also focus on international menus although some shine through with their local offerings.

Hotel Borobudur’s Bogor Café in Central Jakarta, is noted for its legendary Sop Buntut (Javanese oxtail soup) while Hotel Indonesia Kempinski is renowned for its Bubur Ayam (chicken porridge).   

There are also several household Indonesian restaurants such as Kembang Goela, a fine dining restaurant famous for its dendeng blado (thinly sliced beef with chilly). Gado-Gado Boplo is another fine example that proudly presents gado-gado (vegetable salad with peanut sauce).

Some newcomers on the restaurant scene include the Pandan Village restaurant, a semi fine dining establishment that can be found at many of the big shopping malls in Jakarta, and Remboelan, which is located in Plaza Senayan shopping mall.  

The latest brave move comes from Namaaz, the first restaurant in the country that applies molecular gastronomy, which incorporates physics and chemistry into the cooking process, to Indonesian cuisine, which results in a whole new eating experience.

Cooking shows on television, such as RCTI’s MasterChef Indonesia, Trans 7’s Makan Besar (Big Feast) or culinary expert Bondan Winarno’s Wisata Kuliner on TransTV are all helping with the resurrection of Indonesian food.

The enthusiasm and heart-warming interest Indonesian food, however, is not yet enough to take Indonesia’s signature dishes to the international arena, although a handful of passionate people are working hard to make it happen.

Culinary expert William Wongso pointed out that the main problem with the country’s culinary industry lies in young people’s tendency want to learn how to cook western food.

What is even worse, he said, is that curriculum in vocational high school does not highlight local cuisine.

He cited many other countries, such as China, Singapore and Turkey where chefs identified themselves with their local food, this national cuisine pride is a far cry from the westernization of many of our top chefs.

“I haven’t seen an Indonesian chef who bravely says ‘this is me’,” William says. “Except for Namaaz, [this restaurant] dares to apply molecular gastronomy to Indonesian food with Indonesian names — a breakthrough that requires courage and confidence”.

William said it would be difficult for the country’s would-be chefs to be proud of their culinary heritage if they fail to see the potential of street food. Many Indonesians enjoy street food but they take it for granted and consider it as an unfashionable thing to undertake.

A passion for street food is in the blood of Scottish born chef Will Meyrick, the owner of the fine dining establishments of Sarong and Mama San in Bali. Meyrick takes inspiration from his travels across the Asian
continent to create delicious dishes.

In his blog, willmeyrick.com, he shares a story about finding pennywort in Burma and how he uses the aquatic plant back in Mama San.

In the past year, he has also traveled extensively across Indonesia to learn about the region’s authentic food right from the source — the locals.

“Indonesia has a amazing variety of food that many people are yet to experience,” Meyrick says.

“We have to believe more in ourselves and regard Indonesian food as a world-class standard”.

The Tourism and Creative Economy Ministry, is currently working on a strategy to introduce Indonesian flavors to the world. Tourism and Creative Economy Minister Mari Elka Pangestu hopes two other ministries, the Agriculture Ministry and the Industry Ministry, can work together to improve the quality of the country’s raw ingredients to meet international standards.

“If an international chef uses kluwek (black nut), which does not exist in any other place than Indonesia, it will make our name renowned too,” she said.

The ministry, which has a special culinary taskforce, is working on three culinary diplomacy efforts, from pushing for the use of Indonesian ingredients in international cuisine to supporting the iconic food and beverages of Indonesia, such as rendang (the spicy beef dish) — that was recently voted number one in an online survey of the world’s best cuisines, and es cendol (iced dessert drink), which was ranked among the world’s 50 most delicious drinks. The third effort is creating innovative Indonesia food

William said that Indonesian food with rich ingredients has a real chance to shine as the US and Europe start to put their interest in the street food.

“Many International food seminars that I have attended talk about street food because it is the true beginning of [fine] food.” he said.

“People do not want to eat foie gras or truffles every day. They are looking for something new — a new flavor.”     

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